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Newbie and need traction batt info

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by bmwbob89, Aug 8, 2018.

  1. bmwbob89

    bmwbob89 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2018
    9
    3
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    Location:
    Newburyport Ma
    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    Model:
    Five
    Hi All, I am new to Prius. I've been a BMW tech for 45 years and wanted to learn about these cars. Best way is to buy one. I picked up a 2005 with 188k and the Triangle of Death light on. The light turned out to be an inop cooling fan. Fixed the corroded wires and now curious what I can expect for battery life. It only varies about .1 volt when driving between the cells on an Torque app. When parked for about 5 minutes all cells read 16.0 and one is 16.1. Mileage is about 37mpg with the ac on. Brutally hot and humid this summer. I don't want to buy a battery unless its necessary. By the way the price is dropping for new Toyota ones. I found one dealer selling them for 1625.80 plus core which should be refunded. Thanks for the help and ask me any necc questions.
     
  2. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2012
    10,897
    4,418
    0
    Location:
    Pacific Northwest, USA
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    Congrats... Welcome to our slow driving vehicle geekery... There's always more to learn about Prius...

    On PriusChat back in the day we used to compare Toyota recalls and warranty to BMW... It was often said, who else but Toyota will do free recall repair work on 10 year old cars? Then someone would chime in about the opposite way that BMW does it compared to Toyota.

    Anyways, if you want to learn how your battery pack is doing... Pull the pack for cleaning, inspection, testing and reconditioning. Getting spread sheet data on the status of each of the 28 modules will be valuable in maximizing the life of the battery pack, as well as replacing a bad module before it heats up and damages other modules is the way to go.

    The copper bus bars connecting the modules will have plenty of corrosion for you to clean off and because the modules use a very limited amount of charge and discharge range in the car, the electrolytes get stagnant and need several discharges and recharges to revitilize them / improve capacity / lower resistance.

    For load testing use a headlamp lightbulb to measure voltage drop of each module over a 2 minute period. For recharging an individual module my friends and I use the Sky RC smart charger version 2, which is a battery charger for remote control drones, cars, toys, etc. Once you get the load testing numbers written down, you'll be more clear on which modules are stronger and weaker, which ones to keep an eye on.

    Then you can get lots more data using two headlamp bulbs to discharge each module down to 6.5 volts and recharge again, then down to 6 volts and recharge again, then down below 6 volts, but keep a close eye on it because below 6 volts these modules fall off a cliff in voltage at that point and if your forget you're discharging polarity could reverse and you'll have to buy a replacement module.

    Alternatively you could spend a sizable chunk of cash on a Prolong system that will do all this work to the whole pack at once, but where's the fun in that? http://hybridautomotive.com/pages/faq

    In my experience the improvement in hybrid battery health after conditioning is significant and worth the time it takes...
     
    #2 PriusCamper, Aug 8, 2018
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2018