Newbie in need of advice.

start by load testing the 12v. once that is known healthy, it's probably corrosion somewhere.

 

You changed the hybrid battery twice but you are nearly ready to junk it before you spend $200 for a new 12v battery? There is no telling if the other codes are real until the computers have stable 12v power.

 

Welcome to PriusChat!!

Since you're within 30 mins of @PriusCamper - best to reach out for help, and see if someone already known is interested in a purchase.

 

Let me know if I can help as I'm in the city next to yours... My first impression with all these codes is something didn't get plugged in all the way... So check that first. Usually error codes help to focus on what the problem is, but in this case its quite the opposite. So until you can reduce the total number of codes it's wise to look for general problems like something unplugged or damaged wires. Also I have a brand new 12v 55amp-hour battery on my parts rack that I paid $117 for if you want to buy that.

 

Just texted you...

 

So this Prius was less than 5 minutes from my house... I stopped by last night and put the 12v charger on the totally dead 12v... As we talked the car regained consciousness and all kinds of dash light entertainment ensured.

Only a P3000 code, likely from hybrid battery pack sitting for a long time. But that code cleared and didn't come back... The only other code according to Dr. Prius app is P0122 "pedal switch "A" low circuit" and that code wouldn't clear.

Anyways, the 12v battery is holding a charge as of this morning and will post more information once Joa messages me or posts an update on here.

 

Quick update on this vehicle... Put in a new 12v battery and all the warning lights are gone. I took apart, cleaned and inspected throttle body and sensor and reinstalled and it briefly worked normally before I drove it down the street and it went back to same problem of engine not being able to idle and reving up and down like crazy. So will replace throttle body and sensor with used one and hopefully that should solve the problem.

But there's a new development in the engine compartment near the inverter that sounds like a relay or some kind of other switch clicking on and off every 2 seconds. Not sure what could cause this yet... Anyone have any ideas of what that might be? No error codes yet...

It'd be nice if it was just a vacuum issue due to hoses attached to throttle body being loose because that's gonna get addressed. But what else to check?

 

ABS accumulator?

 

I sure hope not! But yeah, haven't yet confirmed the relationship of the brake pedal to the sound... Will be checking that soon as I replace throttle body/sensor.

 

As a follow up to this vehicle the clicking sound turned out to be from a bad coolant storage pump... This car is also a vehicle the owner is hoping to sell once I get it all fixed up so if you know anyone looking for a low mileage 2005 in Western Washington get in touch.