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No AC again

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by sabercat, Jul 4, 2012.

  1. sabercat

    sabercat Junior Member

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    The other day, I had the death triangle come up, its done it 4 times since I have owned it, anyway got the triangle to go off, but now thw AC works some of the time, and sometimes not, the lights are not blinking. I put a new ac pump/compressor on about 3 yrs ago, been good till now, took it to a ac shop, evaced the stuff, put new in, same thing, he said the clutch/compressor was working good, cleaned out the filter, really dirty, was hoping that was the problem, worked good last nite, did probably 10 miles with it, but not really cold/cold air, I have not cked the belt yet, also, sometimes when I come up to a corner, it will like chug up to the stop, like maybe the compressor clutch is kicking in/out. this is the car we use alot in the summer for the fact of leaving it idle while we are in the store, for our dogs, so it gets lots of use. any ideas? Also, when the air buttons are on, motor (engine) will shut off the on, when its not blowing cold air. thanks
     
    #1 sabercat, Jul 4, 2012
  2. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    So what codes were available?
    What codes?
    You don't have any codes.
    The car has at least half a dozen computers recording codes and metrics. Instead, you want us to diagnose a problem without these easily available metrics . . .

    You can get a ScanGauge II for a lot less than the cost of our opinions. Perhaps you might consider getting and sharing some metrics?

    Bob Wilson
     
    #2 bwilson4web, Jul 4, 2012
  3. sabercat

    sabercat Junior Member

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    I know what a code is, but have no idea what a metric, unless your talking about a wrench, or maybe a socket, then yes I do have a few of them in my garage. I do not have a scanguage, and probably will not buy one, I have a setup for a ford, have not looked at the connection, to see if the same, for it to work, or even for it to work. I just thought I would supply some instincts that has been happening, and maybe get some info on a fix. Actually I unhooked the start battery for a bit, drove it for 8-10 miles, blew out pretty normal(cold) temp, so maybe, hopefully it did the job. I have to go on a 60 mile trip tomorrow, will see for sure then. thanks
     
    #3 sabercat, Jul 4, 2012
  4. joedirte

    joedirte Member

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    Just FYI, the A/C compressor is pretty much like a normal car except the condenser is shared with the crazy radiator which has the three way mode (paths) for radiator fluid. Unhooking the battery is unlikely to change anything.

    ANyways, it sounds like you have an OBD-II reader unless you have a "Ford" one.. But any car parts store you can borrow their reader and read the codes, and then you can provide something useful instead of just guessing.

    If the A/C button light is turning on and off it probably means the clutch is slipping.

    For $10 you might want to change the belt if it is old.

    Note: if the HV battery is too hot (ie. bad cells or using the HV battery too much) it will disable the A/C and instead run the fan on FRESH air mode. Make sure you have the windows up and the cabin should be cool with it on FRESH and a high fan speed to get good flow over the battery cells. Make sure you are minimizing the traction battery usage, ie. maybe leaving it on defrost fan setting, and not doing a lot of 30-40 mph where the ICE engine is off. (Especially in hot weather) Just press the gas pedal a little harder to kick the ICE back on.
     
    #4 joedirte, Jul 5, 2012
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  5. lech auto air conditionin

    lech auto air conditionin Senior Member

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    what filter did you clean out?. If the inside of the compressor burnt up and that was metal they cleaned out there is a lot more stuck in the condenser and you will be buying another compressor. You have a yellow sticker under the hood make sure they put in the right oil not some universal heavy weight refrigerant oil that will also reduce the life or the compressor and reduce the cooling out.

    You should have gotten a lot more then 3 years out of a compressor at lest 6 to 10 more if you never ever let the refrigerant level go down. Look at my photos a/c compressors and condensers, filters and dryer shock on my page to get a little more insight.
    sound like you have some other problems to you should address. if you are a DIY person someone was talking about getting the scangage II that will help so you don't have go to the shop all the time and some times when one component dies on a car it will set other codes you can clear and see if they were real or just a byproduct.
     
    #5 lech auto air conditionin, Jul 5, 2012
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  6. sabercat

    sabercat Junior Member

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    (ANyways, it sounds like you have an OBD-II reader unless you have a "Ford" one.. But any car parts store you can borrow their reader and read the codes, and then you can provide something useful instead of just guessing.)

    its a walmart scanner I have, used it on a ford, thats pretty much all I know about it.
    The ac buttons lights stay lit.
    Belt was changed 3 yrs ago when compressor was installed.

    (what filter did you clean out?. If the inside of the compressor burnt up and that was metal they cleaned out there is a lot more stuck in the condenser and you will be buying another compressor. You have a yellow sticker under the hood make sure they put in the right oil not some universal heavy weight refrigerant oil that will also reduce the life or the compressor and reduce the cooling out. )

    I cleaned out the filter, by the glovebox, that was very dirty.
    I noticed that he read the yellow sticker under the hood, like on top of the radiator.


    Thanks, I'm taking it on a 60 mile round trip this AM, hopefully will come into it
     
    #6 sabercat, Jul 5, 2012
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Although I like my ScanGauge II, I don't think it can read the HVAC codes for you anyway. You can get those by turning the key ON with the fan switch set to OFF, and within 5 seconds pressing the A/C button 3 times then turning the fan to AUTO.

    Then you watch the button lights blink and count off two-digit blink codes (e.g. blink blink ... blink blink blink would be 23).

    -Chap
     
    #7 ChapmanF, Jul 5, 2012
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  8. joedirte

    joedirte Member

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    Man that needs in the imaginary Gen 1 sticky/FAQ. Is there a thread with the codes, or it is a TIS thing. I suppose I shall search for it.
     
    #8 joedirte, Jul 5, 2012
  9. joedirte

    joedirte Member

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    Here is another relevant useful thread

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Also for Gen 1 (as stated above by Chap):
    Codes flash two numbers with 2.5 second between codes and then off for 4.5 seconds, then it repeats the codes until you cancel the diagnostic mode.

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

    For Gen 2:
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
    DTC codes from a 2005 Highlander diagnostics:

    B1411/11 Room temperature sensor circuit
    -Cooler (room temperature sensor) thermistor

    B1412/12 Ambient temperature sensor circuit
    -Cooler (ambient temperature sensor) thermistor
    -ECM

    B1413/13 Evaporator temperature sensor circuit
    -Cooler thermistor No. 1 (Evaporator temperature sensor)

    B1421/21 Solar sensor circuit (short)
    -Cooler (solar sensor) thermistor

    B1421/21 Solar sensor circuit (open)
    -Cooler (solar sensor) thermistor

    B1422/22 All conditions below are detected for 3 sec. or more
    (a) Engine speed: 450 rpm or more
    (b) Ratio between engine and compressor rpm deviates 20% or more in comparison to normal operation.
    -Cooler compressor assy
    -Cooler compressor assy drive belt
    -Cooler compressor assy lock sensor
    -Multiplex communication circuit
    -ECM

    B1423/23 Pressure switch circuit
    -Pressure switch
    -Multiplex communication circuit
    -ECM

    B1431/31 Air mix damper position sensor circuit
    -Air mix damper position sensor

    B1433/33 Air outlet damper position sensor circuit
    -Mode damper position sensor

    B1441/41 Air mix control servo motor circuit
    -Air mix damper servo sub-assy
    -Air mix damper position sensor

    B1443/43 Air outlet control servo motor circuit
    -Mode damper servo sub-assy
    -Mode damper position sensor

    B1499/99 Multiplex communication circuit
    -Open in multiplex communication circui



    All DTC indicate it could be the A/C amplifier assy or the harness between the sensor indicated and the A/C amplifier assy or the ECM

    * If the check is being performed in a dark place, DTC B1421/21 (solar sensor circuit abnormal) could be displayed
    * If the room temperature is approx. -18.6°C (-1.48°F) or lower, DTC B1411/11 may be output even though the system is normal.
    * If the ambient temperature is approx. -52.9°C (-63.22°F) or lower, DTC B1412/12 may be output even though the system is normal.
     
    #9 joedirte, Jul 5, 2012
  10. sabercat

    sabercat Junior Member

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    took it to auto zone, they read it, she said try this mechanic, maybe better scanner, any way came up with 1403. I'm going to do the key switch thing, let you know.
     
    #10 sabercat, Jul 6, 2012
  11. sabercat

    sabercat Junior Member

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    did the key thing, go a 21
     
    #11 sabercat, Jul 6, 2012
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  12. Jeff Girard

    Jeff Girard Junior Member

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    I had a code 21 which is a solar sensor which I'm told you can pretty much ignore it's not going to affect the AC when I do the key and the AC buttons I'm trying to figure out a code 23 at the moment
     
    #12 Jeff Girard, May 14, 2020
  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    This post is in the correct, Gen 1 forum, but it is on an old thread where different people were having different issues, identified by different trouble codes. There's usually not much to be gained by extending an old thread looking for information on a different issue—I would suggest just starting a brand new thread in this forum, describing what's been done on your car so far and the 23 code you're getting now, and the low-side and high-side pressure readings you've got, if you have them.

    Then we can continue on that thread.
     
    #13 ChapmanF, May 14, 2020
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