1. Attachments are working again! Check out this thread for more details and to report any other bugs.

No beep with locking car with fob?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Risco, Apr 24, 2017.

  1. Risco

    Risco New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2017
    5
    0
    0
    Location:
    United Kingdom
    Vehicle:
    2014 Prius
    Model:
    Business Edition
    In any other car I have owned, the car will beep when locking. However nothing happens with mine. The indicators flash, but I have to watch for visual confirmation.

    Is there a reason why it does not beep?
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

    Joined:
    May 11, 2005
    107,571
    48,862
    0
    Location:
    boston
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius Plug-in
    Model:
    Plug-in Base
    idk if you can turn the beep off/on in the mfd or possibly the dealer can do it with tech stream.
     
  3. FuelMiser

    FuelMiser Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2008
    1,263
    858
    0
    Location:
    Monument, CO
    Vehicle:
    2016 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    I was searching Gen 3 Prius just now for "lock fob in car" because it just happened to our 2014 Two, and yours was the only post that showed up. So responding to your post (even though stale), in our USA models, we get lights and beeps upon locking and unlocking. I believe these responses can be controlled in Settings, Vehicle options.
     
  4. jawmag

    jawmag Junior Member

    Joined:
    May 8, 2012
    6
    1
    0
    Location:
    Monterey, California
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    II
    I own two prius's 2010 and 2008. What this is, is your car cannot fully lock. One of your door lock actuators is faulty and will not move your unlocked door into the lock position. Your car is locking the remaining functioning locks, but it cannot set the alarm, because one of your doors is still unlocked.

    As prius's get older, their automatic door actuators fail. There is a little motor inside them that quits. I have replaced 3 doors and 1 hatch on my 2010 that were faulty. Now my passenger rear door is doing it. I have had this problem in the past so I know what to look for.

    it you cant make your car beep when you lock it. Place your key faub away from your car. Now go and check all your doors. You will find one of them will be unlocked. If there is not one unlocked, it maybe half way inbetween. Now open your car and inside lock all the doors. Check to see they are all locked. Now using the door lock inside, unlock them, you will find that one of them will not open. That's the one.

    The whole part is around $300 and another $150 to change. There is a great prius owner on here, that pointed us all to the motors that you can buy from China for about 5 dollars. Thats what I did. I replaced all my motors in my actuators for under $20. Just find someone who can help you and do one yourself. You will need a solding gun to solder a couple of leads, but other than that, its just being meticulous that you open and close it properly.

    Thats it. Its an actuator.

    Best Regards
     
    George's likes this.
  5. wr69

    wr69 Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2014
    133
    72
    0
    Location:
    portland, or
    Vehicle:
    2014 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    if the door lock proposal above feature doesn't solve this this beep issue for you, here are a few things to try:

    1. Using the Toyota software (techstream i believe), allows you to turn this volume on/off/level 0-7. Is the volume turned on? unfortunately, you need a dealer or pirated software - i think - to check this.

    2. Next, look at another component - the beeper itself (buzzer in toyota-speak). the wiring for buzzer comes out of the engine fuse box and wraps under the left front wheel well, to a Denso (piezo) speaker mounted above the wheel well spray shield. Buzzer part number:

    89747-0R020 - Warning Buzzer - 2009-2020 Toyota

    There should be a 12v signal when the door lock is activated; and other keyfob button scenarios are encountered. The positive side of the 2-wire plug assembly is on the "keyed" side of the plug. Using the negative side, continuity to body ground can be checked with a simple multi-meter, after disconnecting the buzzer. Disconnect the 12v battery before doing any other sketchy work. But you will need the battery connected to test 12v feed during button press. Be careful to not accidentally short the plug while testing - see my theory below.

    3. Lastly, i believe this buzzer is controlled by the main body ECU (computer). This piece is under the left-side driver dash. This is a brown cartridge that snaps into the white fuse assembly, which is easily mistaken for the actual computer. here is the part number for this brown piece (the most likely computer):

    main body, Multiplex NETWORK (2010-2011) 89221-47120

    This part is somewhat difficult to reach and can be fried by an electrical short which is not strong enough to blow a fuse. Part is essentially a computer, controlling certain aspects of the cars electrical system. This is an expensive part from Toyota but you may purchase a used one, which hopefully will do the trick. NOTE: it might need to be programmed by dealer after installing the used one. It appears like you can install a used one, and car still functions okay, without a mess of codes and programming needing to be re-initialized. IOW, it doesn't appear to be tied with your KeyFob unique ID's and your old keyfobs will work with this new computer part from a different car.

    I have a theory that even minor left front collisions can cause the buzzer wire to shear from the bending/twisting of metal. the shearing causes a potential short scenario. the next time the door is locked/unlocked, before actual repair of short, the computer fries due to the extra current flowing to ground. As the piezo current draw is probably quite low, Toyota engineers didn't think they need any circuit protection there. But speaker is in a bad location, prone to disruption from any minor or major left front collision damage. That entire wheel well cavity is essentially a flimsy metal box, partly being held together by the plastic bumper cowling. Its not re-assuring when part of your structural integrity involves a flimsy plastic bumper. Do you think Toyota engineers actually read this stuff? :)
     
    #5 wr69, Sep 11, 2021
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2021
    danielarichman likes this.