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No power except brakes and brake lights, HELP!

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by Supersonic, May 26, 2019.

  1. Supersonic

    Supersonic Junior Member

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    I have a 2006 Prius. One morning I just went out to start it and nothing. No lights, even the dome and headlights won't come on. No screen no dash lights, even hazard lights don't work. When I press the brake I can hear the brake booster come on, and the brake lights also come on. That's it. Nothing else works. 12v battery is under a year old, reading 12.9v on the multimeter. I took it out and tested it, tested fine. Charged it up before putting it back. Still nothing. Checked all fuses, all fine. Checked power under the hood under each fuse/relay and at main terminal and reads same as battery, about 12.9v. Yes the battery is hooked up correctly and has never been in reverse polarity. No physical damage to any wiring (from rats or anything) that I could find under the hood. What is going on here? I can't even read codes off this thing, completely dead except for brakes! Any ideas? I am easily over an hour drive from the nearest toyota dealer and almost as far from any repair shop so getting it towed will be expensive, but I'm pretty handy with cars. This hybrid is kicking my behind though.
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Sounds like an unusual problem, of the kind that just needs to be tracked down with the wiring diagram (more info) and a meter.

    The brake pump runs, so the skid ECU must be getting power. Do the doors lock or unlock? That's done by the body ECU. But then so are the hazards, I think. Grab a meter and measure for the +12V on the supply pins to the ECU (some should have voltage at all times, some only in ACC or ON). If there's no voltage in a place where you expect it, trace the wiring back in the diagram. It may lead you to a fuse you happened to overlook, or to some other problem.
     
  3. Supersonic

    Supersonic Junior Member

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    Thank you for the reply. Yes ECU harness is getting power. Everything is. I tested at all fuses/relays/harnesses that I could access. Removed whole dash and a bunch of stuff under the hood to test all connections and referenced service manual to see what's supposed to have constant power. Everything is getting 12.9v. I even swapped the battery out with the one from my other car just for giggles. Nothing. I'm completely stumped. Only brake booster and brake lights. Nothing else works. No locks, not even the dome lights. Replaced key fob battery just in case as well but still nothing, though I believe the dome lights, locks, and headlights should all work even without the key present. I talked to a Prius mechanic this morning and he says what I'm describing is impossible. I agree, but it doesn't change the facts. I was up all night working on this because I'm in South Florida and the car is parked outside (HOT). I'm very close to calling a scrap yard and having the thing towed away. I know any diagnostic at a dealer + tow is going to cost me more than the car is worth.
     
  4. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    Double check or just replace the AM2 15 amp fuse. A shorted inverter pump can blow this fuse. Somehow it disables the whole car. If your pump is shorted it can blow the replacement fuse. It's a good idea to disconnect the pump and then replace the fuse.
     
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  5. Supersonic

    Supersonic Junior Member

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    Yeah AM2 is one of the first things I checked. Good continuity. I replaced it anyway. It's getting good power and fuse isn't blowing. I didn't think the inverter pump had anything to do with this...could it have blown any other fuse besides AM2? I mean I checked them all anyway (I think) time and time again but at this point I'm willing to try anything. Maybe I'll disconnect the pump anyway. Is pulling the relay enough?
     
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Often when I'm in a situation where I think I've tested everything and it was all correct everywhere, another person is able to catch something I overlooked, if I provide enough reproducible detail about what I've done. However, if all I say is "nope, I checked everything", then no one can help.
     
  7. Supersonic

    Supersonic Junior Member

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    I agree, that's why I posted here. And everywhere else. Someone on Facebook suggested I pull out the orange plug and beat it against a tree, blow in it, and plug back in. I just tried that. It didn't work. I spent all day and all night taking off every panel and testing every harness, relay, fuse, etc according to the factory service manual, worked front of car to back of car. That's what I did. Also ruled out the battery, definitely not the battery. All systems that should have 12v when the car is not on do, and I can't turn the car on so I can't really check any further than that. OBD port provides power but nobody is home. Scanner can't connect, likely due to the fact that the car won't turn on. Also I jammed the hazard light switch in a bit harder and the hazard lights do work now. I think my hazard light switch is getting a little unresponsive and that's why I didn't notice before. I don't use them often. Been trying to hire someone to come out here and look it over and find that one stupid obvious thing I missed (I agree with you on that one) but I live so remote that so far nobody is willing to come out, and towing to the nearest shop will be as much as the car is worth. So I'm doing my best to describe what I've done, but at this point I'd have to write a book, and who would read it? I was just hoping someone out there encountered this before with all the Prius out there and at least point me in the right direction.
     
  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Sounds like the switch contacts inside the hazard switch are Florida-positive. Could that be the case for some other switch or connector contacts in the car?

    That's not necessarily enough for anyone who might be following along in the Repair Manual or wiring diagram to usefully check your work, though, if anyone had time to do that. That would look more like "I checked on A63 pin 11 and saw 12.9 volts," etc. (Note: example designations just made up.)
     
  9. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    I think there is another fuse on or near the 12 volt battery that controls more than you would expect it to. I can't remember the details of exactly where it is.
     
  10. Supersonic

    Supersonic Junior Member

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    What does Florida Positive mean? And yes anything is possible, I'm not taking anything off the table. I'm starting to wonder if I have a bad ECU or something. I know most of the switches don't go directly to a load but rather are serial connections and switched by a computer somewhere else. I should probably find what isn't controlled by a computer and see if that works. Sorry I'm new to Prius. I haven't owned this thing very long and it's my first hybrid and first time trying to fix anything on a hybrid. I'm more of a old pickup truck kind of guy.
     
  11. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    How about focusing on just a small part of the problem? Trace back the dome light circuit. It might lead to enlightenment.
     
  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Only that the contacts may show some signs of having lived 13 years in a saltwater environment.

    Sometimes contacts can even look nice and shiny and surprise you by not conducting electricity.

    Really, Toyota didn't go way far overboard with addressable switches; certainly not in Gen 2. Most of the switches are just switches. Some of them do just serve as inputs to ECUs, but just on/off, not any fancy serial protocol.

    The wiring diagram will show you what's what.
     
  13. Supersonic

    Supersonic Junior Member

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    Now you're thinking! I will try it in the morning and report back.
     
  14. Supersonic

    Supersonic Junior Member

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    There's the main and the little 5a blade fuse on the + battery terminal. Are you referring to those? Both of those are fine unfortunately, and I'm not aware of any others near the battery.
     
  15. Elektroingenieur

    Elektroingenieur Senior Member

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    First, do you have access to the Electrical Wiring Diagram (Toyota EM01R0U)? As @ChapmanF kindly suggested, this is a key resource for effective troubleshooting, and it’s readily available, though perhaps not for free.

    From the Power Source pages of the EWD, I’d conclude that if there is 12-volt power at the DLC3 (OBD II) connector, then the 7.5 ampere OBD, 100 ampere DC/DC, and 120 ampere MAIN fuses are all OK. Just to confirm this, do the vanity lights behind the visor assemblies work? The Interior Light pages of the EWD show that these are switched only by the vanity light switches, not by any relay or ECU.

    Next, does the horn work? There aren’t any ECUs there, either, just the HORN relay. Unlike the vanity lights, though, it’s downstream of the 60 ampere P/I fuse. This may be the fuse to which @strawbrad kindly refers in post #9, and it has several important loads connected downstream, including the Power Source Control ECU.

    If the horn doesn’t work, it should be easy enough to work through that circuit to find out why. Focus on this circuit first. Once you get the horn working, if the trouble persists, do the “Power Mode Does Not Change to ON (IG and ACC)” procedure in the Diagnostics - Push Button Start System section of the Repair Manual, especially the power and ground checks at connector P6, for the Power Source Control ECU, which operates the ACC, IG1, and IG2 relays, which control the power to many of the computers. I’d suggest backprobing the connector, since the small terminals can be damaged permanently by inserting a meter probe.
     
  16. Supersonic

    Supersonic Junior Member

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    Wow that was super helpful. Thank you. It's funny it's 1am local time and I just sat straight up in bed, woke my wife up, and told her "I have to go check if the horn works". I actually completely forgot to try it. So here I am outside trying to beep my horn at 1am (sorry neighbors). YES THE HORN WORKS! I didn't even know there were "vanity lights" behind the visors. They however do not work. So I've got working horn, but non-working vanity lights. Yes all the fuses you listed are tested and fine. Actually I couldn't find a blown fuse anywhere in the car. I actually checked them with a multimeter too, not just visual inspection. I even put a multimeter to the fusable links in the under-hood fuse box just in case, all that checked out too. Visual inspection of all wires I could find for rat damage, all fine as well. I've been studying the lighting wiring diagrams and troubleshooting procedures since it seems nothing controlled by the body ECU is working. I will dig into that more tomorrow as well. Also, OBD2 connector does have power, but I can't get any codes or data from it since I can't turn the car on. Anyway thank you for the insight on the horn and vanity lights. And yes I do have that diagram. I guess I won't be pursuing the downstream from the horn since that works, but I will see if I can trace back the vanity lights on the diagram.
     
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  17. Elektroingenieur

    Elektroingenieur Senior Member

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    You’ll find them on EWD pages 169 and 170, under Interior Light, where you’ll see that the Main Body ECU’s unswitched power supply (ECUB) also takes the same route: the 15 ampere DOME fuse in the Engine Room Junction Block; junction connector J6, under the right side of the dashboard; and connector 1A, at the Driver’s Side Junction Block.

    Since the trouble isn’t just with the lights, I’d focus on the common elements of the circuit: is connector 1A properly seated, and do you find the expected battery voltage at both terminals 1A-13 and 1A-30? If not, the next checks would be the DOME fuse, junction connector J6, and the interconnecting wires.
     
    #17 Elektroingenieur, May 27, 2019
    Last edited: May 27, 2019
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  18. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Just remember with the vanity lights on the visors, the switch has to be on, the door opened all the way on the mirror and you might have to swing the visor around (up and down). The light does not come on in some positions.
     
  19. Ri.hybrid89

    Ri.hybrid89 New Member

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    Old thread I know... but I'd love to hear how this turned out.. I'm Having literally the exact same issue at the moment and it's driving me nuts. Power to brake lights, door locks, hazards, etc. But nothing else. Power button does nothing!! Hope SuperSonic resurfaces for me! Would be a total Lifesaver.