No start, battery dead?

Which it does.

Why would you buy one?

 

RE: Trickle charger

Did I say that I would buy one ?

I would never get one nor recommend it to anyone else.

But some people don't know the difference......and some use the term incorrectly when making a recommendation.......and some people just look for the cheapest thing possible without paying much attention to details.

 

Let me know if interested in fixing the water leak I know exactly how to fix real easy!

 

It should be ok. Being 1.5 Amps rather than 4 Amps charging rate it will just take longer to charge up an empty battery. If you use it on a regular basis it shouldn't be a problem as your battery should always be at the top end of the State of Charge (SoC) range.

I see it has a "pigtail" that you (or a friend or family member) can permanently attach to the battery terminals. You feed the other end of the pigtail up through the plastic cover. This allows a quick and safe quick connection to make charging an easy and simple process.

Good luck with everything.

 

YES it is a good choice.
Just don't call it a "trickle" charger.......because it isn't.

 

Correct and correct.

 

No doubt. What almost NO "mechanics" realize is that battery itself can develop defects that will cause it to discharge ITSELF, even when not connected to anything.
And it appears that some don't even know how to check if it is charging while the car is running.
SIGH.

 

That might very well be true but it will NOT cause your 12 V battery to go dead.

 

Unless the 'stumped mechanics' removed the HV battery cover (doubtful), there is no real way for them to tell if the busbars are corroded (some codes/DTCs can point in that direction), and many older prius do have corrosion, yet still function perfectly fine (until they don't). Was the rear of your vehicle disassembled to gain access to the HV battery, like in this simple step by step guide : 2004 – 2009 Toyota Prius Plug-and-Play Car Harness Installation Instructions | Hybrid Automotive

There is, and likely that won't solve the current issue. But knowing the OBD2 codes (DTCs) will set you in the right direction. Without sounding like an optimist, and from your willingness to chase down 12v parasitic drains and all, you've got this. Just wish there was a way to go back in time and lay out a concrete plan for you to follow, we could've saved some anguish here.

3300 is a bit steep for a new OEM battery from the dealer, but most of the local dealers in your area (link below) are asking for that much at the retail level for just the battery pack without installation. Assuming your mechanic has a wholesale account with the dealership, they might be able to get 20%+ discount. Which given labor costs for 'stumped mechanics' these days sounds about right. They would pay 2500 (or whatever) for the battery, and charge you 3300 installed, the job generally takes two to four hours, depending on skill and if you clean the HV battery fan (always recommended). This assumes they were planning to install a NEW pack from the dealership (don't fall for some random used/rebuilt/refurbished HV battery).

Working off this list of toyota dealerships, closest to farthest :

3165 retail at
G951047031 - Toyota Battery assembly, hv supply. Electrical, wiring, cable | Frankfort Toyota, Frankfort KY

2693 retail at
G951047031 - Toyota Battery assembly, hv supply. Electrical, wiring, cable | Joseph Airport Toyota, Vandalia OH

1773 retail at
G951047031 - Toyota Battery assembly, hv supply. Electrical, wiring, cable | Bommarito Toyota, Hazelwood MO


Then there is the core charge of 1350, and of course the installation (not that difficult for some).

If the new OEM pack (or the $1600 http://newpriusbatteries.com/ ) isn't in the budget, then find a verifiable (by checking the serials) low mileage wreck, or a quality rebuild from a known source (not many out there, but we can suggest), or just DIY.

It can look like many different things, for stumped mechanics it may look like an open purse or wallet. Likely these gentlemen have a quality scanner, and after a few seconds of scanning, the device spit out some OBD2 codes (DTCs) that could include DTC P3000, DTC P30xx, and possibly P0AA6 (ground fault), which would point towards a failed/failing HV battery. Hopefully they didn't charge you for this simple service, and if they did you should request a written invoice/estimate for the suggested repair that includes the above scanned codes (please post them here if this is the situation).

Normally it isn't a good idea to clear the OBD2 codes before having first scanned and recorded them, but this time its different.

You can do a simple test for a potential ground fault DTC (P0AA6) by first clearing the code(s), either by using an OBD2 scanner or by disconnecting the 12v supply at the battery (all three plugs) to clear the codes (DTCs), then wait a couple of minutes and reconnect the plugs again. Now attempt to 'ready' (or start) the vehicle, the first attempt will produce a beautiful array of warning lights on the dash (don't fret), now power down the vehicle as normal, and if your second attempt starts or makes the vehicle go 'ready', and then after shutting it off refuses to start again, then you know you have a 'ground fault',

If the above test didn't work, now would be a great time to buy a hybrid compatible OBD2 scanner (unless stumped mechanics are in your future), many DIYers like the 'mini-vci' cable and techstream (dealer technician software) installed on a windows device. Others get by with using an OBD2 bluetooth adapter and an App like Dr Prius or Hybrid Assistant installed on a bluetooth device, learn more about compatible bluetooth adapters : Hybrid battery diagnostic and repair tool for Toyota and Lexus

Once you've retrieved the stored OBD2 codes (DTCs) from the ECUs (computers) post them here for additional guidance.

Not a huge upsell in the scheme of things, most mechanics and dealerships won't even think of repairing the HV battery, only replacement. And given your nearby local dealerships extreme retail price point for a new battery, it all makes sense (mostly). But without knowing the OBD2 codes (DTCs), it would be difficult at best to say if the mechanics are or are not at this point.

All is not lost (yet), *we* can get this sorted out.

 

P0AA6 doesn't have to be horrible. SFO gave some information up in #35 on how to narrow down where the leakage is. Depending on where it is, some cases might be correctable without a big parts expense. Others might not, but that's what needs to be found out.

 

DTC P0AA6 has three (3) related subcodes (INFs) that can help pinpoint the issue, the most extreme failure being in the transaxle assembly (have you ever changed the transmission fluid?).

Most of time DTC P0AA6 will be a leaking module in the HV battery assembly, notice the related INFs (subcodes) for DTC P0AA6 in the image below. Some DTCs have related INFs, knowing the INF(s) may help troubleshoot an issue faster.



If you do the above posted (and now quoted below) test you should be able to determine if the mechanics diagnosis is correct without using a hybrid compatible OBD2 device. Of course there could be additional codes that may point to other issues as well, and having a suitable (compatible) OBD2 code reader/scanner in your possession can help take much of the guess work out of the equation, and won't cost 100 each time.

If the above test starts the vehicle (by resetting the 12v), it may be in your best interest to pay whatever (100 or less) and drive home very gently. And if in the future you need their services, for this vehicle or another then you might be good to go.

Once you turn it off, the vehicle may not start again even after disconnecting the 12v or clearing the codes (DTCs), or it may start, and why pay for a tow if you don't have to. So best not to turn it off until you have a proper place to park it again.