Noise from engine area

How many is normal at your cooling pump storing the hot water

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There's three places cooling can go one on the pop one by the radiator and one under the cover on top of the radiator

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The noise is normal

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That one other two are next to the grill on left look down hole the other one even closer under the black cover

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chemical flush? i think you should avoid that dealer. use toyota coolant, recommended for whichever coolant loop you're topping up.
how many miles on her? are you following the toyota recommended service in your manual?

 

from what i've read, iirc, the engine coolant should be checked by removing the plastic cowling and opening the radiator cap, cold! do not trust the reservoir level. the inverter coolant reservoir level should be between the marks.

 

Do I understand that you bought the car at a non-Toyota used car dealer? You took it to them for coolant system service? And you're avoiding the Toyota dealer? Things are a little confusing above.

There are two cooling systems, they both take the same coolant, and they both should be changed (not flushed) at the same time. This is one of the few things a Prius-specific mechanic with the proper tools and procedures should do, and even they make mistakes at times. If the engine coolant was changed by someone not at all familiar with a Prius, get it checked and fixed by the right person soon. There is a complicated bleeding procedure. If not done right, engine and inverter damage can result.

Use of directions above is also confusing. Generally in the US the driver's side is always referred to as the left side, even when looking at the engine compartment from the front. It's less confusing to use the terms driver's side and passenger side, not left and right.

 

I know you qualified your statement with "Generally in the US", but this an international forum and there are members with RHD vehicles that participate, so it is actually less confusing to refer to left and right, with the understanding that it is as related to the driver sitting in the drivers seat looking forward, even when standing in front of the engine looking back (as you said). This last bit is a bit counter-intuitive, when you're not used to it.

 

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3 of them

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definitely you need to check the radiator level asap cold. then fill the radiator to the top, and both reservoirs to the fill lines with Toyota super long life coolant (SLLC). That should take care of it. THEN, after you drive some and it cools off, recheck everything to make sure its still full. next, get a strong flashlight and look all around the engine and radiator for white or pink residue and coolant drips. best to get underneath it and look. if you don't have anything better, you can drive the rh wheels up on a tall curb so you can slide under. while your looking, check your oil level and look at your serpentine drive belt for cracks or damage. if you see anything that concerns you, take some pix and post em here with any questions.

 

The G2 is very easy on the engine coolant but very hard on the Inverter coolant. The engine coolant is very hard to drain completely and refill without causing an airlock. This is because of the extra thermos called the Coolant heat Recovery System that stores hot coolant so the car acquires engine temp faster upon re-start. This is deleted in European G2's. faster the engine requires running temp helps emissions and saves gas. But the CHRS is a real pain to deal with. The pump has to be manually run to circulate the airlock but jumping out its motor relay.
The CHRS thermos is located deep down behind the drivers side headlight right behind the bumper.

Best way to deal with the rad coolant is just dump the rad a few times. Open the petcock and dump it and then fill it up. This will replace a large portion of coolant without invoking an airlock. Thats what I have done since 30,000 miles.

The Inverter coolant is subjected to exposure of a large cross section of aluminum for heat sinking in the Inverter itself. That raw aluminum contaminates the fluid. There's some cool photos on youtube of Inverter heat sink cut aways. Brilliant engineering the Japanese.

It really helps to dump that initial Inverter coolant at say 30,000 as the initial ear in leeching will be over from on. The aluminum contamination will be much less from then on. I believe its the main reason why the pumps failed as aluminum contaminated fluid will be very abrasive going thorough a pump.
That fluid is just dumped by opening a bolt on the bottom of the transmission. Refilled and bled. There's petcock in front of the inverter underneath that plastic rad cover. Its very easy and drama free unlike a full engine coolant dump.

Btw, the fact that the Inverter coolant pump was replaced under warranty does not mean it has new coolant. They duckbill pliar off the hoses and slide in the pump with minimal fluid lost.

You should see an instant increase of mileage with fresh coolant in the Inverter. The invwerter is the heart and soul of the car and demands at least basic maintenance.