Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock!

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by danlatu, May 22, 2017.

  1. Dilbone

    Dilbone Junior Member

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    I didn't, it's what my buddy that I bought it from had in it.
     
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    @Dilbone whrn the replacement head gaskets blew, it was after Exhaust Gas Recirculation cleaning, including the intake manifold passages? At least the last time?
     
  3. Dilbone

    Dilbone Junior Member

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    Nope, the EGR had never been cleaned until now

    SM-G981V ?
     
  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    There you go then; third (or whatever) times the charm? Don’t forget the intake passages: it’s all for naught if they’re still clogged.

    You are a VERY interesting data point BTW: brand new head gasket, AND clogged Exhaust Gas Recirculation, and 20k later it’s blown again...

    Not sure if I’ve previously linked this Exhaust Gas Recirculation info:
    Bad Flywheel | PriusChat
     
  5. Dilbone

    Dilbone Junior Member

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    He actually cleaned those out so they weren't that bad...I cleaned them as well so I should be in good shape

    SM-G981V ?
     
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  6. Dilbone

    Dilbone Junior Member

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    The start just now after work would be the 4th cold start... 4th start period actually since I finished it last evening. It was the smoothest start so far and the CEL is now off. I'm assuming the last 2 starts before I tore it apart, that were major shake events, is what triggered the CEL on Dec 20th. The 2 worst starts I've had were in the morning and then at noon on Dec 20th after which I parked it and started the work.

    I better start a thread for this saga...

    SM-G981V ?
     
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  7. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    yeah I don’t search and reading other similar threads myself.
     
  8. Tekken

    Tekken Member

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    Time to Smog! Jus got my registration renewal letter need to smog certification. Should I remove my OOC for smog? OCC is hidden under the intake manifold next to engine mounter.
     
  9. jzchen

    jzchen Senior Member

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    If it's hidden most likely it won't be seen, IF the tech actually opens the hood. Hopefully unnecessary.

    Yesterday was SoCal COLD at 40 F (per in dash ambient gauge) started her up and definitely heard a knocking sound coming from the engine. Smooth as butter just clearly audible. Thought I had an animal under the hood, popped the hood engine not vibrating at all visibly, run to the back no smoke out the exhaust at all.

    Stats:

    Always run 91 octane
    Change oil once yearly last time end of May 2020
    Mileage (current after 32 mi round trip yesterday): 31378 mi
    Oil used: Mobil 1 Annual Protection 0W-20
    Filter:. Fram Ultra (model specified)

    Thoughts:. Have 7 gallons of 100 octane (R+M)/2 that have been sitting for a long time. Maybe fill and see, but that may not happen again until cold is over for the season. Filled up just the day before.

    Shrugs...


    moto g(7) power ?
     
  10. Tekken

    Tekken Member

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    Thanks, It passed the Smoggy 3weeks ago with OCC hired under the manifold. The Smoggy guy used the mirror to check, he ready care bout the OCC, he care is it an original CAT.

    run 91 octane are smoother, especially during acceleration.
    Change oil 2 times yearly, before summer and winter.
     
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  11. Tekken

    Tekken Member

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    I need advise for better OCC.

    I averagely getting between 2 - 3 teaspoons of dark Oil in the OCC per 1000 miles. but also got 1 -2 teaspoons under throttle body.

    On my last check on OCC after 500 miles, i got 2 teaspoon milky like in OCC and 1 teaspoon dark oil, not milky under throttle body, I guess, winter moisture and oil mixed, Luckily, no Knock so far. I'm looking feather on my next 500 miles OCC check.

    Here's my OCC setup with 2 feet outlet from PCV and 1 foot inlet to manifold and OCC mount under the manifold.


    20210128_130429[1].jpg

    I'm looking different type of OCC, but i can't afford $120 Moroso OCC.
     
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  12. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Looks like a standard oil catch can;).

    @Mendel Leisk has two in series, which the second can catches more than the first:).

    Try 2 in series of the same type if you want improvement(y).
     
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  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yeah the first catches roughly 50/50 oil water, at least at the spring drain. And the second is mostly water, just a thin layer of oil at top. Both pretty cruddy looking.

    Mounted low, the drain spigots at the bottom are easy to access during oil changes.
     
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  14. Tekken

    Tekken Member

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    Yeah, I have thought about it, likes Mendel Leisk pair up 2 Cans, but also though it may increase the resistance and increase pressure in the Crankcase. As you well know Toyota designed a short distance of tube length to connect PCV to manifold for less air resistance and less air pressure to release Crankcase pressure. We keep add resistance and increase air pressure by pair 2 OCCs in. I'm looking for some optimal method like danlatu mention try to use this ProVent 200. Don't know have anyone tried?
     

    Attached Files:

  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I did replumb everything once with 1/2” (min) ID hose. It was cumbersome though. FWIW, running to Moroso’s with 3/8” ID hose, I’ve noticed no negative effects. My hose runs are very short, about a foot at either end and maybe 8” loop between the two. They’re just below intake manifold.
     
  16. Coots

    Coots Junior Member

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    No, Permatex Ultra Grey is NOT advisable. I used to be in this same boat... until I realized the Permatex is NOT QUICK CURE. You need to apply it, let it dry for like 30 min and then assemble the parts to get a proper seal. Hondabond / Toyotabond is a QUICK CURE gasket maker. I have never had a problem with the OEM stuff. You buy a tube and it lasts forever.

    Does the Permatex work? Sure... it can. I've had okay results and at times I've had it leak before without doing it proper. Do most people read the package and use the proper wait time before assembly? Probably not.
     
  17. Dilbone

    Dilbone Junior Member

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    Well, ultra grey is what I used...and let me tell you, the 2 times I had to take the cover back off after having to recheck something I wasn't sure if I did or not I can tell you that stuff is tough as hell to remove. If it leaks I will absolutely be shocked...
    2500 miles in and it looks fine as wine to me

    SM-G981V ?
     
  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    They also have Ultra Black, description says fast cure, but also mentions to wait 24 hours before starting up. :confused:
     
  19. Coots

    Coots Junior Member

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    Sounds like you sealed it correctly. I think the majority of people wouldn't do it with the correct cure time.

    A big part of the milky oil can be cold weather causing condensation in the catch can. I know in the winter (North midwest arctic) I drain my catch can at each oil fill up, just as a precaution. I have it mounted high with a drain valve so it's very easy to do. Sometimes it's more full than others. I do this because I have a smaller catch can. Definitely add the stainless steel scotch brite scrub pads, it helps. I get milky fluid and my car isn't burning a lick of oil at 176k miles, doesn't have a coolant leak.
     
    #1999 Coots, Feb 26, 2021
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2021
  20. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    got my catch can on, thanks to this thread for the inspiration :)

    couple stupid questions, sorry i have not installed an occ before! .. are you guys connecting the in side of occ to the pcv, and out back to manifold? and are you filling the main body of the (cheap ebay) catch can with a full steel wool pad, or just putting a small piece of steel wool in the little baffle cap :)

    Cheers .. Matt
     
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