Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock!

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by danlatu, May 22, 2017.

  1. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Let's hope not, as we will be contending with Fukushima for quite some time.
     
  2. Harry9508

    Harry9508 Junior Member

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    Hey everyone!

    UPDATE: Reinstalled OCC today. Everything sounded perfect after the install. Drove about 80 miles after the install at 57 mpg which is my personal best TBH. Will check the cold start tomorrow!

    P.S I broke a wire harness clip that's on top of the valve color screwed in with a bolt. :( So I strapped it using a black plastic tie clump.

    I drove about 100 miles without OCC after cleaning EGR, Injectors and Manifold. Would I be needing to clean the manifold again for the residue oil that would have caught up in the EGR for that 100 mile drive? I don't think so, right?
     
  3. StarCaller

    StarCaller Senior Member

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    100 miles is nothing /
     
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  4. Harry9508

    Harry9508 Junior Member

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    How did you connect those two hoses? I used a small pipe connector which I think is really small then used 2x clumps on either side of the connector to tighten it up.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. StarCaller

    StarCaller Senior Member

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    nothing wrong with the ruien (as long as you put some mesh in it.... ;) )
     
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  6. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    OH NO! You ruined the car! Now you have to trash it!
    Just kidding.... Plastic brakes easily... :) Cable ties are great!

     
  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

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    Barb connectors are VERY tenacious. If you're not sure, you can add clamps. But I believe the clamps aren't needed. If you've got some spare hose and a barb connector, try pushing on the hose, then getting it off. It's virtually impossible, by design I think.

    What I resorted to when I divested my OCC of it's old plumbing, just to recover all the brass fittings, was to careful slit the old hoses longitudinally, a couple of slits 180 degrees apart. Go really gently with a box cutter, pressing just hard enough to almost get through the hose, and you'll hear the snick-snick as the blade runs over each barb edge.

    You want to avoid scoring the brass as much as possible, cut barely deep enough, then pry up the hose edge with a small flat-blade screw driver, and then grab it with some needle nose and try to peel it back-and-off.

    There are myriad brass connectors available: straight-splice (aka menders) where you just join two sections of hose, the same diameter (per your pic). There's also dissimilar size menders, one hose transitioning to another. Those two scenarios are also available in 90 degree elbows, and 45 degree elbows IIRC.

    For connection to the can it's typically an NPT fitting (National Pipe Thread) fitting, which is a tapered thread: when you screw male and female components together it's very loose at first, then progressively tighter. I think if they're cut right, you should be able to do 3 turns by hand, then you want to do at least another turn with a wrench to really cinch it.

    Thread sealant is mandatory with NPT fittings. First time around I used Teflon tape, this time I cleaned the threads (with brake cleaner), and then applied a ring of Permatex ThreadLock 243. Trial fit first, so you know where to apply the sealant. It has to be just back of the end of the male component, I found.

    A further variant, there's "hose barbs", which are a saw tooth series of biiting rings, and there's also "beaded barb", which is just a single barb at the pipe end. The latter "might" need a hose clamp. Again, a good test is to see how easily it pulls off.

    This is my local "candy store", good resource, I was able to order online and save shipping by just picking up the order.

    https://www.new-line.com/

    The go-to page:

    https://www.new-line.com/fittings/brass-hose-inserts-and-push-on-hose-barbs/brass-hose-barbs-stems-inserts-splicers-menders-tees

    Here's my flow-chart, the hose diameters and various fittings I used:

    Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock! | Page 78 | PriusChat

    I ended up not using the high-flow elbows. They take up more room, and careful measurement of the ID's of the fitting showed the tight corner elbows were best. I used screw style calmps only on the two end connections, the PCV valve and intake manifold spigots. They both seemed slightly loose, easy to pull off. Which is good, for when you want to remove it, for cleaning, or return to stock.

    I used the same Permatex ThreadLock 243 on the PCV valve threads btw.

    I let everything sit for a day (Permatex recommends 24 hour cure), and then last night we went out to a movie, also served as a "test run". Like you: no trouble lights, and everything sounded good.
     
    #1687 Mendel Leisk, Jan 11, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2020
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

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  9. Cosmo Tigato

    Cosmo Tigato Active Member

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    I found this.


    And a quote from his Comments
    "98snakeeater

    2 years ago
    Sorry I took so long to get back to this Yes, I did get the results and apart from having a lower viscosity count (66.4 vs 76.4 @ 200* F) and a lower level of zinc (929 vs 1218) the catch can sample showed traces of copper and lead not found in the sample taken from the pan. This was most likely from the brass/bronze parts used to create the catch can setup. Other differences were negligible."
     
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  10. Nuckz23

    Nuckz23 Member

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  11. aviafx

    aviafx New Member

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    Combed over this thread a bit, may have missed some info so I'll post my question. Thanks everybody who's chimed in on a solution for this knock. Not sure if I'm experiencing an additional issue, but...

    2010 Prius, 128k. I'd get the startup knock on cold mornings. I pulled the original intake manifold and swapped it with the updated intake kit (17120-37091), new OEM PCV, cleaned out the EGR tube, valve, and cooler, replaced those bits with new OEM gaskets, and added the Ruien catch can. Also did an oil change/trans exchange/inverter and engine coolant swap. Fired up the engine after a good long weekend of reassembly and brapbrapbrapbrapbrap, knocking's still there. Poop.

    Drove it around every day this past week, no startup knock. Maybe 150 miles or so of driving.
    Started up Saturday morning this weekend, brapbrapbrapbrapbrapbrapbrap. Dang. Still knocking, maybe ten seconds this time (less than usual) but still discouraging. Checked the catch can and found a good teaspoon of clearish water in the bottom of the can. Minimal oil sludge in there.

    Any advice on what to check/diagnose next?
     
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  12. Cosmo Tigato

    Cosmo Tigato Active Member

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    Read this thread

    Cold-weather startup rattle revisited | PriusChat
     
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  13. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    Watch your coolant level, if it’s slowly going down over time then head gasket leak is it. No matter how many cleaning long as coolant leaking, it’s curtain.
     
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  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

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    To be continued. Maybe...

    IMG_1896.JPG
     
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  15. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    Emptied my OCC on a work holiday today after roughly 7,500miles. About 8 teaspoons worth, no knocks at all.

    Love the catch can (y)

    IMG_0572.JPG
     
  16. Cosmo Tigato

    Cosmo Tigato Active Member

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    I have to install the 2 OCC's I got last week, on my two prii
     
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  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

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    I think I've got to back off for a while, lol.

    First, a few weeks back, I got the notion that I needed bigger hoses, less flow restriction. Maybe yes, maybe no, but I had to do it, a complete replumb, going from 3/8" ID to 1/2" ID, new fittings, scrap the use of the cut-in-half OEM hose at the two ends.

    Then, having a second Moroso 85474 (long story), notion number two: let's put it in, in series. Well, it's done, it all fits, but it was tough going. Especially running 1/2" hose up for low mounted cans, the dimensions of the elbow, they started taking up room needed by the throttle body coolant lines, the gas tank vapour lines and valve.

    I'm feeling kinda beat up this morning. I'll leave it thus, for at least 6 months, see what the second can collects. If nothing, I'm tempted to just return to a single can, revert the hoses to the old 3/8" ID setup, if only for access/simplicity.

    IMG_1899.JPG IMG_1900.JPG
    New slotted angle bracket and Mororo retainer rings in. Effing high-voltage AC compressor line, always in the way: IMG_1901.JPG
    Impressive :): IMG_1902.JPG
    You can more-or-less see the circuit here. Near side flow goes froom right side can to left side can. Far side, the right side can goes up to PCV valve, and the left side can runs up to intake manifold: IMG_1905.JPG
    ^ Due to where I previously drilled holes, I pretty much had to put the spigots at 6 and 12 oclock. Left side would be hitting the AC compressor at 9 oclock. Works.

    Note the congestion, a confluence of larger diameter (1/2" ID) catch can hose with bulky elbow, the throttle body coolant line, the gas vapour valve and hose (that hose still off, in pic). I had the 3/4" ID EGR connector hose piece shorter before (short piece with hose clamp and "Continental"), but then it's elbow was right where the throttle body coolant line came through. A real snarl: IMG_1907.JPG
     
    #1697 Mendel Leisk, Jan 21, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2020
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  18. Nor'easter

    Nor'easter Junior Member

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    Symptoms of OCCOCD?:whistle:
     
  19. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    My husband's friend told me about the old STP double oil filter that was widely marketed in 1he 1970's.

    It assumed that the individual was so stupid that, if one oil filter trapped 98% of the dirt, the second layer would do another 98%.

    I would like to see how much the second catch can gets that the first one misses.
     
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  20. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    I think some people have WAAAAYYYY too much time on there hands! :)
    They need a 2nd hobby! :)
     
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