Oil Change 2010 Prius - do it yourself

Does it matter if the engine is cold or warm (hot) when changing the filter? Thanks for the info on the 64mm wrench.

 

We usually want the engine to be warm when changing oil so it runs out better, although that may not be as important with the light weight oil we use now. As far as the filter goes I can't think of any reason why it would matter.

 

Mechanics "and dealers" love repetitive maintenance.
Every exposure they get is another chance to try and drum up more work on top of the existing.

Maybe your mechanic has lost faith in his own abilities to keep work just from his good work.
Most "good" mechanics have more work than they know what to do with.
If he fits that description and he is still bending perception also, it sounds like you need to search on.

What will "or has" happened when he gets you at a disadvantage where you truly can't double check on him.
Giving him the benefit of a doubt as assuming he really thinks he needs to relieve the pressure, it just goes to show you he can't use common sense.. an equally dangerous trait of a mechanic.

Anyway... I just checked my Amsoil 0 - 30W by visually looking at it and it looks like normal oil that has about 2K miles on it.... and mine has 22K or so now!
You can still see through it.... on the dipstick it still barely look used.
Normal oil would be black already.

Thank goodness for this forum as it gives knowledge which is power, and also a good defense!

 

Thank you for your thoughts. I agree with you. He also told me that He uses reg 5-30 oil in gen III and he knows everything to know about the Prius. I think I may know more than he does because of this forum.
Thanks again

 

Due to the oil change interval changed from 5k to 10k, is it "over the top" to change the oil at every 5k still? Or is that just wasting money? Synthetic oil of course. Thanks in advance.

 

I don't think it's "over the top" at all, if you think 10K is to long change it at 5K and send a sample in to be analyzed, next time do one at 7.5K, and if they are OK go to 10K if you want to. Actually it may be a waste of money but it's yours to waste.

I changed mine at 8500 last time because I was getting ready to go on a long trip and I didn't want it to come due while I was away from home.

 

Here is the UOA at the 15k mark based on a sample of Mobil 1 0W-20 I withdrew from the dipstick tube. I used a 1/4" diameter plastic tube about 3 ft long connected to a MityVac brake bleed vacuum pump. The tubing just fits into the dipstick tube.

This is 5K miles into a 10K mile oil change interval. The report shows all the UOA's I've done from the very beginning. It's good to note that the silicon has gone down almost an order of magnitude from the first oil change. I'm very happy that I did my first change early. I also had a TBN done which appears to indicate there's still adequate additives left. Blackstone said I should be able to go another 5K miles on this oil. BTW, I'm using a Toyota TRD filter.

 

Blackstone themselves say that silicone showing up in oil analysis of a new engine nothing to be alarmed about. It is normal.

The Silicon Bugaboo

 

Does anyone know the part numbers for those annoying plastic pins that hold the access panel closed? I've mangled mine up pretty good, and don't what they're called or how to look up their part #.

 

See #144 in this thread.

 

Check out this discussion:
http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-iii...s-replacement-diy-oil-change.html#post1034057

 

Another Used Oil Analysis

Here is another used oil analysis, 28K miles on the car, 8500 miles on the oil. Using Mobil 1 0W20, looks like my early apprehension about using 0W20 in hot weather may have been unfounded, at least over the short term. A lot of these miles were on the highway at 70+ MPH in summer temperatures.

Changed 1500 miles early because I was leaving on a 4K mile trip and I didn't want to change it in route or leave it until I got home.

 

I guess thats how you define "over the top".

For me... the money is nothing "I get amused when the discussion veers that way with a 35K automobile".
The difference in price per quart we waste with a coffee or big mac!

I guess if your changing every 5K, the money adds up.

For me its convenience. I don't want someone else doing my oil change and I don't like to mess with it anymore than I have to.. .especially with 3 cars.

I haven't done an oil test yet, but my oil will soon be approaching the 25K mark and I'll change it. So far, it looks great on the dip stick and feels great too.

I figure if Amsoil can rate it at 35K, the prius "which runs less on the engine" should be able to do 25K no sweat when living in normal conditions.
I"m using the Amsoil SSO 0-30W.

I guess as cheap as oil is.... you could say changing every 2K is not over the top.... its where ever you want to draw the line.

But I do think there is a point where you are accomplishing nothing to change it more than needed.
Either the oil is good, lubricates good, protects the metals good, and gives good gas mileage or it doesn't.

 

Hi Alan, I hope you get an oil analysis after 25K on Amsol. I for one would like to see how it looks.

 

yea me too!

 

i just changed the oil on my 2010 blue ribbon prius.... I bought the filter and gaskets at the dealer,,,,not very expensive.... I asked them about the
0-20 oil.... The service manager said 0-30 was ok....it is available at walmart for $23.95 for the 5 qt bottle... I watched the video on internet for changing this oil...glad i did....what a deal.... I popped the buttons and dropped the flap....took out the filter and replaced with new one... It is a bit more involved than a traditional filter... I got it
figured out finally.... I had to use car ramps as a floor jack didn't get
it up enough.... If you use one ramp, put it on the right front wheel...the flap is closer to the right side of car... I used the manual to reset the oil maintenance warning light...so now it's good to go..
Last 1000 mile trip was 53.9 mpg....

 

0W30 is OK as far as the car is concerned, the engine will run just fine on it. Unfortunately it does not meet the requirement for 10K mile oil changes. You were led astray by a service manager that does not understand the warranty requirements for the 2010 Prius.

Check pages 38 and 39 of the Warranty and Maintenance guide and page 560 of the Owner's Manual. The bottom line is you must use 0W20 if you want to change your oil every 10K miles, you can use 5W20 if 0W20 is not available but it must be changed in 5K miles and replaced with 0W20.

There is a caveat in the Owner's Manual that says you can use heavier oil under "extreme load conditions" but those conditions are not spelled out.

 

How I lifted my 2010 Prius for the oil change.

I think the oil change itself has been well covered and the tools, from the oil filter wrench to the bungee cord to hold the access door open.

What I have been struggling with is lifting the car.

Ramps didn't look like a good idea, to steep and none of them quite get the car high enough.

I ended up with a Black Jack 3 ton SUV floor jack from Walmart $70.
The shortest jack stands I could find at 13.5"
Scraps of 2x10 with 45 degree cuts stacked, staggered about 5 inches, and screwed together very solidly with deck mate screws to give me a mini ramp 3" high very easy to drive on to. Added a 2x4 to end to aid in stopping.

The floor ack has two configuration one starting at 5 11/6" but that only lifts to 17 5/16 inches about 1/4 " less that I need to get the jack stands installed.

The other configuration starts at 9 1/4" and this requires the mini ramps to get the jack under the car.

Drive the car onto the ramps, install the extender, jack the car up to slightly more than 18" at the front center lifting point. Position the jack stands under the frame elements, and gently lower.

This went smooth and on a level concrete surface is fairly safe.

Two surprises.

1. The oil really projects and splashes in the catch pan, I anticipated this and raised the pan by hand but I still end up with some on me and the floor.

2. The magnet drain plug I had my mechanic install on the first oil change stuck tenaciously to the oil pan and confused me for a second because I expected it to fall into the catch pan. It did have a mild smear of what I can only assume was metal paste stuck to it.

Now I need to learn exactly how much oil to poor in because it took longer to fill it than it did to lift and drain it, complicated by the fact that it doesn't run just because you turn it on.

Hope this helps some one get it right the first time. It took me three tries.

 

Yes, the topmost post takes care of the re-set for me. I had the oil and filter changed today at WalMart, of all places. They do sell the green-capped Mobil 1 and $55 is their charge, but add in another 4.55 for the shot-glass sized oil filter, and my total bill was $63. The oil is priced at 6+ per quart and it takes 4.3 or thereabouts. The pit boys were challenged by basic geography of where the underside panels flips down with the removal of three plastic pins. They were further confounded by Toyota's little springstop that keeps the filter cap from unscrewing if you're doing the Paris-Dakar. If you're cruising USA hiways, it's merely a mechanical challenge that took four Walmart teammates to the pits to conquer. Their whole effort took about 30 minutes, and if you are assured that your dealer is putting in the hi-dollar oil, I'd think $75 would be fair for your car and your blood pressure.