Oil change door missing plastic fastener

This is the part number for the bigger one at oil change flap, with grey head:




The rest are the one above, Hino....

Attached is pdf with more info.

No loss, don't worry about it. It really does nothing.

Oh I can: "Toyota" is in fact the rushed grease monkey at the dealership, likely using an electric impact when he put it back on. Torque value is 18 foot pounds, see attached.

Just my 2 cents: it's good to take the entire panel off when doing an oil change. It takes a little longer, but affords you a better view of everything, the CV boots, oil pan, transaxle and so on. Make sure all the plastic fasteners are present, replace any missing (or missing a tooth). If you wash them out with hot soapy water before reinstalling they will last a long time. With the bolts, put on a drop of oil and brush it in before reinstalling, and just snug them firmly, by hand.

The plastic fasteners involved are the two part numbers shown above, 2 of the bigger one, 11 of the smaller. There is a third kind, connecting plastic-to-plastic, the "oil flap" and adjacent, but if you're taking off the whole panel you never touch those.

 

1.67 CAD .... So there are basically free here in the US

 

That price was through Amayama, shipped from Japan. Shipping charges are reasonable, especially if you have several small items.

Checking through McGeorge Toyota (US), it was $1.51 USD, so actually a bit more.

Bumper Cover Clip - Toyota (90467-09227) | Toyota Parts

Amayama so far has not charged me any sales tax, and import duties incurred either.

 

I also found my oil filter was ridiculously tight the first time I changed it - previous time was a Toyota dealer...

 

I saw a listing on eBay for a kit containing a tool and threaded nut inserts called nutserts that are a perfect fit in the two smaller holes that hold both the undercover and the oil change door at the rear. After having them installed, bolts are used to hold both down and keeps the cover in place securely.

I have the complete high end nutsert tool and had done this for my own car years, ago. The door and the back of the undercover has never come loose.

 

Sounds similar to "rivnut".

For those plastic fasteners I just stay on top of things, and replacements are fairly cheap. But interesting product. I was thinking of using them for an oil catch can bracket, but made do with simple nuts and bolts.

 

The Prime is different, even than the 2014 PiP
The undercover is held in place by 4 - 10mm head bolts under the bumper and 10 smallish push pins.
I snapped two pins so I should get them in due time + an extra or two while I'm at it. I have two missing in the rear undercovers as well. After cracking loose the transaxle fill and drain plugs - almost a full quart tanny fluid overfill came out - I had the worst time finding the oil filter and drain plug in the pan the ICE is so small under there. It was one of those DUH moments when I did find them. Turns out I have the insert and not the twist on like I'd ordered a year ago, figures. I changed the oil anyways as only at most a half quart comes out when changing the filter insert alone.
I inserted a tranny fluid funnel into the tranny refill hole and scribed a line for reference to get a hose that will hopefully fit in the hole.
There was a bunch of trash laying on the front undercover when I removed it. No biggy, but I did think I may be ordering another one of these days, but than again maybe not. I'll think on it for a while and see if I come up with any rube ideas for it. That and the nasty rusted bolts that came out easy enough - thank god - were the only real problems I had - fingers crossed !!
october 12 left side front pads

yesterday - finished up a bit after midnight today.
atf overfill amount

what the transaxle fill hole looked like

engine/motor undercover - that's a marlboro menthol butt.

 

Where did all that fuzz come from? Insulation disturbed by rodents?

 

The car was stuck for a day while I located enough wood to raise the front wheels enough. It bottomed out on a cement slab.. I had to jack it and put wood under the front tires to get it back off the cement. I tried sand first, but I couldn't jack it high enough as the rear wheel came off the ground too while jacking on the front jack point. So that's probably what caused it. The fluff came from the white spot on the upper part of the pic. So I'm out of some insulation on the uudercover. And I nice big hole in the insulations protective cover. I was tired and it was pitch dark outside at 2am after driving all day and the cargo area was full too. I was not sure what caused the fluff either when I first saw it, since that incident happened a year or two ago. A friend in the area said it sounded like the movie Christmas Vacation when I told them about it.

 

You probably already know this from reading here on PC, but if you only raise the front, the transaxle will tilt to the rear. That's going to slosh fluid back near the fill hole and it'll run out. Then when you refill to that level, it'll be under filled. I point this out just in case. And also to make sure future newcomers know it when they read this thread.

Yikes!! Looks like you caught that just in time. Maybe a stuck caliper slide pin?

 

Thanks Jerry and good call. I'm still debating another pair of jack stands or ramps. I should be able to back onto ramps with the prime, but I haven't checked that yet either. It's my first time under the Prime and I was only under the PiP once to change oil and filter.
Well at least I know how much I need to put back in the tranny now since I saved the fluid to measure how much came out, minus the few tablespoons that spilled as the plug came out initially.

The driver side inner side of the rotor has a lot of that pad material stuck to it. I'd never seen that before. I thought I'd gotten a picture of it, but it looks like I missed it while doing the work. I'll have to get a shot of the rotors and the pads from both sides of the car.
I'm finally getting around to using my Panasonic FZ-70 again. I tried to take video. but my tripods camera mount is toast and positioning the camera on a cardboard box and leveling it with rocks didn't make for the greatest camera angles. Plus I don't like the way I sound on camera yet anyways.

 

Transaxle should take 3.5~4.0 qts/litres. Measure drained but don't count on it: just fill with the car level till it starts coming back out.

After first time I followed Repair Manual instruction, checked level after a drive: it hadn't budged, waste of time/effort.

 

Thanks Mendel, your experience and help has been greatly appreciated as I struggle to get our Prime back into shape.

Edit adding pics I just took today. Still putting pieces together...


Pads rotors and shims where I left them.

Left front inner side of rotor and pads

Left inner side of rotor pads with shims matched to pads

right side rotor and pads - shims are around somewhere.

right inner rotor with pad flipped

right outer side of rotor and pad

and probably OE shim grease?

 

That's a significantly knackered brake system.

 

I learned a new technical term today.

 

sure there are plenty more of those coming when with two 3's in the stable.

 

I kind of bumped into this brake issue, because the title of the thread is about missing pins in the undercover. Not complaining can’t say I’ve never put off topic info into a thread....

I am very surprised at the problem you have had with the brakes. Does it not get cold in Japan? Somewhat interesting tidbit the repair/service manual I bought from Toyota Materials Distribution for our ‘04 Sienna mentions absolutely zilch (nothing) about greasing anything on at least the rear brakes. Just clean up the pins nice and smooth (maybe with very fine sandpaper) and replace. Having seen at least one worn pad in our v I’m debating replacing the front pads. I think I’ll wait. There are two huge bolts that hold the lower control arm to the car frame, one that enters the front horizontally was nice and clean, the one vertical was rusted. To think this is sunny Southern California. Plan is to swap them at the moment...

Regarding the undercover try parts.Toyota.com . If you’re lucky like us there may be a few dealers within reasonable distance that participate. Try changing the dealer, the pricing may change. I have one in Puente Hills that does pricing discounted from MSRP, so I usually order there and make the drive, as it’s further. It is not the nearest participating dealer but does discount so I’ll make the trip...