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Oil filter housing replacement.

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Main Forum' started by filmdude50, Mar 7, 2023.

  1. filmdude50

    filmdude50 New Member

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    Hi all. Do you know if it's possible to replace the oil filter housing with an aluminum one on a 2010 Prius? The plastic one that I have is always next to impossible for the mechanics to get off when they need to replace the oil filter. I have looked up some on ebay and amazon, but they all say that they don't fit a 2010 Prius. If anyone in here has replaced there with an aluminum one and can provide links to it, please let me know. Thank you.
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I'm not sure why they would say they wouldn't fit the 2010 they're coming off of 2ZZ engine they should go in the 2010 I haven't had time to take one and hold it up there and have a look so I don't honestly know I know that the two ZZ engine out of the Corolla that sits in my yard has the same plastic filter which I have never had a problem with it is the easiest thing in the world to remove if you have the oil filter wrench which should be kept in the trunk The only reason I haven't swapped over is because I don't have one of the aluminum blocks right now for the spin on filter and to be honest with you it takes me about the same amount of time to change my oil spin on or cartridge and I have a really good deal on great cartridges so it's not really a thing for me I have had zero trouble with the plastic oil filter cover.
     
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    You can also convert to spin-on style filter. If you're interested I can dig up links. I've done it, not that hard, works well.
     
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  4. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Active Member

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    Yes, I replaced my plastic housing about 1-1/2 years ago. On Amazon search for B097BXSGJ4 OR search for
    Recajia Oil Filter Housing Cap Assembly with Oil Plug Drain Compatible with Toyota Avalon Camry Corolla Highlander Matrix Prius RAV4 Sienna Tacoma Venza Replace 15620-40030 1562040030
    51aA+pPraiS._AC_SL1000_.jpg
    Also on ebay:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/324998290511

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/364168380853?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818142055%26meid%3De1abf677838b4644bdd8bf6194e19b07%26pid%3D101112%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D115072311697%26itm%3D364168380853%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWebV9BertRefreshRanker%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101112.m2109

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/275447172982
    You also need to buy the oil plug 15643-31050 separately.
     
    #4 Brian1954, Mar 7, 2023
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2023
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  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Okay I think the housing is the part that stays on the car The aluminum piece that the plastic piece spins into the part you're removing from the factory to change the oil is plastic I realize they make a metal one so I guess that might be what you were asking about I'm talking about what Mendel above is talking about replacing the housing which stays on the car you take the one on the car off put on the two ZZ housing that takes the spin on filter like Toyotas have always taken before.
     
  6. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Perhaps using the correct filter removing tool, and NOT over tightening it would work.
    The aluminum housing was discussed in another thread less than a month ago in
    another feed.
    A few had said that it CAN be used. The difference is the large hex nut on the tip
    that you can remove and attach a plastic tool to drain the filter housing. No that you
    have to do that.

    Again, make sure they do not overtighten it and use the correct tool to remove it.

     
  7. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    Brian1954 is correct, these parts (housing and cap) are the two parts needed. OP, don't worry about ebay saying it won't fit your Prius. It will fit.

    I've put them on a 2011 Prius, 2014 Corolla, and a 2016 Corolla, all with 1.8L engines that had the original plastic oil filter housing.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  8. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Yes if I'm going to do this then I might as well just move to the spin on It's just like two or three bolts
     
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  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Good point. I never had a problem with removal of the stock filter housing, always torqued to 18 ft/lbs. I did have an O-ring end up at the flange once, luckily no leaks. That, and just something to do, motivated me to switch to spin-on.
     
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  10. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    Problem is when the shop torques the plastic housing down past spec'd torque.

    I couldn't budge mine using a breaker bar and a cheater pipe.

    Used a 1/2 inch impact gun and was wailing on it for a while. I was thinking that either the cap wrench or one of the base plate mounting bolts was going to break off.

    The good thing about the aluminum filter housing is that it turns only so far, then there is a hard stop, and it can't be overtightened.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #10 xliderider, Mar 8, 2023
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2023
  11. DPri

    DPri Junior Member

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    You should replace your mechanic first
     
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  12. MelonPrius

    MelonPrius Senior Member

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    For the first time this month, I had a mechanic give up and say that he couldn't get the oil filter off because the previous mechanic screwed it too tightly. My oil change ended up costing $170 because of the additional fees associated with changing out the housing.

    Question: Was this problem really caused by the previous mechanic putting the housing back on too tightly? Last time, I used a different company to change my oil. Again, it's the first time I went through this and don't want it to happen again.
     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    My experience: I did maybe 18 DIY oil changes (first ~nine years, twice per year) with the stock oil filter setup (permanent housing), before conversion to spin-on. In all cases I torqued to specd 18 foot/pounds.

    It was always stiff unscrewing, till the O-ring on the barrel is out of the bore, but never more than a good push needed to break it loose, get it started.

    Bottom line, they way over torqued last time, maybe slammed on with an electric impact.
     
    #13 Mendel Leisk, Mar 8, 2023
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2023
  14. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    Replacing parts with your own money to make oil changers job easier, and take your money at the same time. Might as well bring cold beers for them also.
     
  15. PriusII&C

    PriusII&C Active Member

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    I would think so. I have changed my Prius oil filter about 15 times, and the only time I had difficulty to take it off was after I changed the oil at Walmart once. I had to bring the car back to Walmart to get the filter loosen.
     
  16. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    99.9% chance it was whoever tightend it last change.
    You should learn to change the oil yourself. It's not that hard.
    Unless you have some physical limitation they keeps you from getting partially under the car.

    I screw mine on my hand, when I can't go any further, I use a 6 inch ratchet until it bottoms out.
    Then I give it a snug pull. And I put the clip back in so just in case it decides to unscrew, the clip
    will stop it.

    Learning how to do some the easier things to do will keep more money in your pocket to spend
    on other things.

     
  17. MelonPrius

    MelonPrius Senior Member

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    Thank you for the responses. Last time, I had my oil changed in Vancouver Canada, and won't be back there again for an oil change. I usually stick with one place for oil changes.
     
  18. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    Yes, all pc users have a 3-car garage to diy!!!
     
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  19. mjoo

    mjoo Senior Member

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    I change mine under the shade of a tree.

    moto g power ?
     
  20. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Name it?