Oil quantity between min and max marks

I'm sure I read somewhere how much is the quantity of the oil between the min and max dots on the dipstick, but I can't find it. Can somebody tell?

I'm joining the oil burners club The level is in the middle of the marks after 8000km (5000 miles) and it was filled to the max mark when changed and I'm wondering what is my oil consumption...

 

You're great, thank you!
It turns out that mine "drinks" around 0.8qt / 5k miles (0.75L / 8k km). I'm thinking to try some oil flush with additives before the next change.
And then pouring some GTL based Shell Ultra Professional 0w-20 (This Shell and Pennzoil Platinum 0w-20 are the same oil).

 

It has 172k km (107k miles). This is my first car that burns oil, I've had 1.2, 2.0, 3.0 gasoline and 1.6, 2.0 and two 2.2 diesels, none of them were even touching it. I read a lot about the oil consumption in Toyota engines and mine isn't really an issue, compared to some of the bad cases and I won't do anything major and definitely won't put thicker than 5w-30 in it in the future if the consumption raises. If I'm not mistaken, it burned the most of it when the ambient temps were more than 40*C (104*F).

If some day the oil consumption raises to unbearable levels, I would open the ICE, clean the pistons and put new rings, 15w-40 is waaaay thicker than recommended one and usually this viscosity is mineral oil with а lot worse specifications.
You're right, I won't buy any additives, I'll take 150 - 200ml (5 - 6.5oz) diesel fuel from my other car and will put it in the oil for 10km (6miles) drive before changing.

 

I get what you mean, but I said that for the piston rings, because I do all the work on my and family cars by myself and this task is not a problem, a weekend job. The recommendations for the oil are not only their grade, but their specification, their flash point, TBN, contents of elements such as molybdenum, phosphorous, zinc, calcium, lead, aluminium, etc, etc, etc... The most "synthetic" oils use mineral base oils, the exceptions are GTL based ones, but "good" synthetics have more additives to "keep the oil good" for longer periods (dissolving acids from burning fuel, etc) and to expand the temperature range. Here the temps can drop to -30*C (-22*F), sometimes they can go up to 45*C (113*F) and the cars stay outside, so for the people who need their cars all year 'round, the good synthetic here is a must and I can't afford 15w - it becomes like jelly when it's cold.

Again, I get what you mean, I appreciate it and understand that this consumption cannot be called a problem yet, and also that it's not needed to do anything to resolve non-existing issue, but I think to do it - as you said because of stubbornness and to experiment if it will dissolve any potential buildup because of the piston design with insufficient holes for the oil.