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one problem down another one pops up, P0886, C1310, C1252, C1256, C1345 - pretty sure is hybrid batt

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by lunarkingdom, Dec 31, 2022.

  1. lunarkingdom

    lunarkingdom Junior Member

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    Long story short fixed my accumulator problem 100% then on test drive I got a bunch of codes, mostly inverter, transaxle and communication to ecu etc. I was starting to go down the path of diagnosing with the codes BUT there were some common things happening throughout,

    1 Headlights were dim and changing brightness

    2 Fan for hybrid battery kept coming on

    3 Battery would charge up in like a mile and discharge in like 15 minutes of "key" being in the on position

    4 Every test drive the triangle of death came on the second I hit the gas or my high beams.

    This car has sat for about a week with me having to work on it, it is a 2007 with original battery that has probably been messed with (shield is missing bolts etc).

    Open to suggestions, do you agree it is probably hybrid battery? What new one is the best? I remember seeing one for about 1800.00 but will have to do a more thorough search. Thanks for any tips and help!
     
  2. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    You don't think it's more likely something related to the ABS job? There's a lot of connectors that get disturbed in that job. Wouldn't be the first time something got missed during the reconnection phase.

    Aren't those codes mostly abs codes? pump problem, accumulator problem? linear valve not learning? Those are all abs. Are you certain the P0886 isn't a P0AA6?
     
    #2 TMR-JWAP, Dec 31, 2022
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2022
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  3. lunarkingdom

    lunarkingdom Junior Member

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    You are correct that was the code that never quit, P0AA6 kept coming back over and over
     
  4. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    The P0AA6 means you have a loss of insulation between the HV system and the car chassis. There should be a subcode to help determine which section of the car has the problem. Was the P0AA6 present prior to the accumulator job?

    If you have Techstream, you can look at this "insulation" value by going to the hybrid tab. It's called shortwave highest value and should be 4.99 volts. Anything less means you have an insulation problem somewhere. I think around 3.2 volts is where it triggers the code.
     
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  5. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    ok, so the 526 subcode is the general warning, for lack of a better term. At some point, the car will recognize a more specific area. There's a lot of threads on the forum about this code. Unfortunately.....
     
  6. lunarkingdom

    lunarkingdom Junior Member

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  7. lunarkingdom

    lunarkingdom Junior Member

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    yes 526 and 613 to be specific, what does it all mean?
     
  8. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    The 613 code means the problem is located in the inverter or transaxle (MG1/MG2)

    P0AA6 locations.jpg
     
    #9 TMR-JWAP, Dec 31, 2022
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2022
  9. lunarkingdom

    lunarkingdom Junior Member

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    I measured the inverter with an ohm meter it was 3.5 but under 10 so that means the transaxle then?
     
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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  11. lunarkingdom

    lunarkingdom Junior Member

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    not yet but it is on my list of things to buy, looks like I should do test 17 as well if I have the meter. I dont like that I test the inverter for shorts to determine that the transaxle is bad thus why I also want to measure it too.

    So no one else thinks it is possibly a dead 12v battery or a dying hybrid battery nor a dying inverter? I ask because there was no code pointing to the ABS module the only code I had was the RF and LR ABS wheel sensor, lucky I was able to get a refund for thew 200 dollars I spent ordering the LF one as there were random codes because the ABS unit was broken.
     
  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I wonder if you're seeing different steps than I am. Notice that from step 2, because you have a 613 INF code, you go directly to step 18, and in step 18 you megger from body ground to all six MG phase leads of the transaxle, after disconnecting them from the inverter. You are not testing the inverter here.

    (You might also notice that step 17 is the same as step 18, you just get there on a different path, from different INF codes.)

    In step 18, if you do not find the leak in the transaxle, then you're directed (with no further test) to replace the inverter. If you look back at the diagram for what's in the 613 area, you see why that makes sense. The 613 area includes the transaxle and a tiny bit of the inverter assembly (just what's downstream of the MG1 and MG2 IPM sections), and nothing else.

    If you haven't got a megohmmeter or used one before, here is a post I recommend reviewing. It has a link to an older thread discussing some of those instruments, and also a link to a document. "A stitch in time", that will tell you much more about the proper use and safety of the tool than you're likely to get from what comes with the tool (especially if you end up getting one of the cheap offshore ones, where it's lucky if you get a page that says how the batteries go in).

    If you have a P0AA6-613, I don't think it's a 12 volt battery or a traction battery. On whether it's the inverter, I'll reserve judgment until the megger tests of the transaxle.

    I see how you got there, but you've concluded more than that story warrants. Any time you're looking at a trouble code from an ECU, you have to ask yourself "what is possible for the ECU to know?". Obviously, no trouble code can be telling you more than that. A trouble code "for" an RF or LR wheel speed sensor can only mean the ECU noticed something off about the signal from that sensor. The signal comes from the sensor, over wires, into the input circuits of the ECU. The problem can be anywhere on that path. The ECU can't possibly know that the sensor is where the problem is, therefore that can't possibly be what the code means. The code is only saying that a human needs to figure out where the signal problem is occurring, along that path.

    That's why it's hasty to just blindly replace a sensor because it's mentioned in the fortune cookie of some code you have. Somebody should first find out what the code really means and start checking to rule out all of the things that could cause it. Eventually there'll be one thing left not ruled out, and if that's the sensor, then it's time to replace the sensor.

    What happened to you establishes that there wasn't a problem with the LF sensor. But it doesn't establish that there were "random codes".
     
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  13. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    I am confused. It's tough trying to follow your posts and my telepathy is really weak.

    You had ABS wheel speed sensor codes so you replaced something? Ecu or actuator? But you also had P0AA6?

    Now you still have P0AA6 and also have ABS codes pointing to possible actuator problems AFTER your brake repairs?

    Ok- just found the other thread, which explains SOME of what's going on.
    https://priuschat.com/index.php?posts/3312985

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #14 mr_guy_mann, Dec 31, 2022
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2022
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  14. lunarkingdom

    lunarkingdom Junior Member

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    Maybe I am off but if you look at the picture below "17 CHECK HV TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY FOR INSULATION" at step (d) they are having you measure the 6 leads to the transaxle where in section "18 CHECK HV TRANSAXLE FOR INSULATION" in step (e) they have you measure the inverter (look at the picture to the left) even though they call it the transaxle side of the body ground so yes, THIS is very confusing lol BUT I am very glad you are spending the time to share it with me.

    I just bought a "Digital MegOhmmeter Insulation Meter 200GΩ 5000V Megger Insulation Resistance" on eBay it should be here in a week or so and by then with your help I hope to be confident enough to figure out what to replace next so I can enjoy my new to me gas saving mechanism sometime soon.
    Thanks guys!! Super appreciated!
    You found it Mr Guy, yeah I went for it and it cleared up the brake problem and covered it in that thread, sorry I am jumping around in the conversation but it has been a wild 7 days of learning the Prius and it has been quite the learning curve, thanks again!
     
  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    That is weird about the illustrations. The second one has its arrows pointing the other way. But the corresponding text in both steps is the same (as it should be).

    Also, step 17 has NG to the right and OK down, while step 18 has OK to the right and NG down. But the NG and OK mean the same things in both cases.

    Being an editor for car repair manuals must be a dreary job.
     
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  16. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    You have not said yea or nay, but while you're waiting for your megohmmeter to arrive I highly recommend reading, if you haven't already, the information ChapmanF pointed you to in his post:
     
    #17 dolj, Jan 1, 2023
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2023
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