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Open Circuit Squib Driver Side! Red Triangle...

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Sam Dean, Jun 12, 2013.

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  1. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    ah John! Am i glad to hear from you buddy!

    I've had a nightmare of a day!!

    Basically, I got into the car this morning with the manual key just to take the pictures and do basic inspections and now I cant even get back in, no matter how much i turn the key :(

    RE: botched job - you need to see the rest of the car and you'll feel my pain :(


    ....but it's okay - we have good skills amongst us so we should be able to sort everything out



    how do i get into the car? I have tried to turn it hard, clock-wise, anti-clockwise, and both, but it just wont open. If I can get in, I'll look for the root connector for both of these taped up cables.....

    cheers
     
    #101 Sam Dean, Jun 22, 2013
  2. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    from memory, I couldn't see any connectors at the base of these two taped up cables - only a black tape holding them together at their base. Couldn't some solder fix these cables? Although probably not worth it if there's issues on others parts of it.

    ....mind you, I'm more concerned on how to get into this car at the moment - really trying not to worry - I hope the lock mechanism isn't damaged or anything serious
     
    #102 Sam Dean, Jun 22, 2013
  3. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Sam my first thoughts about getting into the car was that the door had been changed along with the lock, but this cannot be the case if you opened it with the key before.
    I do feel your pain and I am angry that someone can get away with this sort of "to say the leased bad practice". Damage can be repaired if done correctly. I have done many vehicles in the past for myself and family and friends have queued up for them when I have sold them always knowing exactly what repairs have been done, with pictures.

    As far as getting into the car is concerned try lubricating the lock and key with WD40 as they do seize up because of lack of use. Slide the key in and out a few times with WD40 or any freeing oil.

    If this does not get you into the car see if you can open the bonnet through the front grill the connect a battery to the jump point in the fuse box under the red cover. Be very careful to connect the correct way. Positive + red to the jump point. Negative - black to chassis. the car should then open with the fob. When you have the car open disconnect the jump battery then do not close the bonnet completely so this process can be repeated if required (put a small piece of wood under the bonnet to stop it closing properly.

    The wire to the air bag can be soldered but I was unsure of your soldering skills. The connections I am most concerned with are the ones where the cables join the clock spring.
    I am trying to find a picture of the clock spring to confirm that they do plug in at this point as I am 90% certain that they should. Can you see how the appear to be connected when you can get back into the car.

    I am sorry you also appear to be having so much bad luck with parts supplies, but with patience we will get there.

    I will try to log on on a regular basis so keep me updated and I will try to answer any more questions.

    John (Britprius)
     
    #103 Britprius, Jun 22, 2013
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  4. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    Thank You John

    okay - I'll try to lubricate the key and lock, but will have to do this tomorrow as I dont have anything except some standard oil...although that may work.

    I removed the old battery yesterday with a view to charging it but never got around to it, so I'm unsure if a jump start would work? I do have jump start leads but that's all I have.

    Okay - will keep you posted.

    Thanks again

    :)
     
    #104 Sam Dean, Jun 22, 2013
  5. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Sam this will work with out a battery fitted in the car as long as the positive battery connector in the rear of the car is not touching the bodywork. After charging the battery taken out of the car that should be enough to do the job of opening the doors.

    John (Britprius)
     
    #105 Britprius, Jun 22, 2013
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  6. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    okay - just tried to use a multi-purpose "3-in-1" oil on the key and lock (inserting/re-inserting 3 times with oil on it) and it still wouldn't open. I'll try again in the morning as the oil may have settled in by then.

    If that doesn't work then I'll try to use a screwdriver to get through the grill in order to open the bonnet.

    I'll start charging the battery on a slow trickle charge first thing in the morning until the afternoon, and then attach the jumper leads to this and then connect to the fuse box that you're referring too. I hope I can find it.

    RE: the airbag cables - based on that guide on how to replace the clock spring cable that you sent me, I think they do plug into a socket....and to be honest with you - with the level of work completed on this car so far - that connector is probably damaged. Let's see how it goes tomorrow.

    Thanks again and I'll give you more updates throughout the day tomorrow.

    :)
     
    #106 Sam Dean, Jun 22, 2013
  7. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Sam, after doing much research on the clock spring it "appears" the two cables from the air bag are connected directly to the clock spring. They do not plug in to it as I suggested so this limits the problem to the cable themselves (damaged) most likely given the taped up section.

    So suggest you strip this back to inspect the damage before we go further, also gently pull the wires where they enter the clock spring to confirm there mechanical integrity at the point where they enter the clock spring. Post pictures of the wires if you can when you have removed the tape and the sleeving to show all of the damaged area.

    John (Britprius)
     
    #107 Britprius, Jun 22, 2013
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  8. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    okay, definitely, I'll do some more inspecting, and I'll take as many close-up pictures as possible, and post.

    what a fun project this car has turned out to be ey

    i could be a mechanic by the end of this journey hehehe

    :)
     
    #108 Sam Dean, Jun 22, 2013
  9. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    The jump point is in the large fuse box under the bonnet. After removing the lid you should see a red plastic cover, under that cover is the end of a bolt that is the Positive + battery terminal use any clean bolt on the engine or bodywork as the negative terminal. I CANNOT STRESS ENOUGH MAKE SURE YOU CONNECT THE CORRECT WAY ROUND !!! sorry about that but as you have gathered by now this is very important so take your time and double check each connection before actually connecting the jump leads.

    John (Britprius)
     
    #109 Britprius, Jun 22, 2013
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  10. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    ok - I'll be extra careful. I also just did abit of research on Youtube and found the following clip;




    I'll do it as he does, which matches your instructions exactly - I'll just need to charge the old battery for a few hours in the morning first because at the moment, it's pretty drained.
     
    #110 Sam Dean, Jun 22, 2013
  11. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    The Prius shown is a gen3 but the procedure is otherwise exactly the same.

    John (Britprius)
     
    #111 Britprius, Jun 22, 2013
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  12. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    I'll connect the battery to the jump leads first, then I'll connect the red lead to the red switch - then the black lead to a bolt on the car. Then I'll give the key fob a go, and hopefully it'll be Hey Presto!

    :D

    I'll do my best to get as much done in that visit whilst the car is open.

    In this part of town (and London in general), you need yo lock the car up securely and shouldn't really leave it open for more than a few minutes. So I'll get the photos as well as I can, once I've undone the tape.

    It's looking like I'll have to take the whole clock spring out if those cables are to be repaired - that's gonna be a bigger job.

    Okay - one thing at a time...
     
    #112 Sam Dean, Jun 22, 2013
  13. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    You should be able to repair the cables in place, if you have to remove the clock spring I really recommend you send it to me for repair as I can test every aspect of it's operation.

    John (Britprius)
     
    #113 Britprius, Jun 22, 2013
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  14. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    Good idea - I'll probably go with that option.

    I'll take the tape off as soon as I get into the car but to be honest, I haven't done electrical work in quite a few years now and so it'll probably be better off in your hands.

    My only fear with taking the whole clock-spring out, is fitting it all back in - but then again, I have those instructions that you sent me.

    ...but let's see what the state of the cables is - if it looks straightforward to repair, then I'm happy to have a go.

    Thanks again John
     
    #114 Sam Dean, Jun 22, 2013
  15. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Sam, the advantage of living out in the sticks is we know everyone for miles around, and if there are any strangers about we get to know it very quickly. When I moved out hear from the city I was amazed when my car insurance company sent me a check for one third of my premium for reduced risk.

    John (Britprius)
     
    #115 Britprius, Jun 22, 2013
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  16. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    WOW! Blimey!

    Well I'm being ripped off currently with what I'm paying on insurance over here!!

    I need to replace the head gasket for my old Nissan aswell - tidy it up - maybe put some vinyl wraps on it - new interior maybe and then keep it as a pretty collectible - or sell it - although I'd prefer to keep it, but it does drain cash just sitting there (road tax, insurance, plus i have to pay to park it outside my house, under something called a "Residential Permit"!!!!!) - so you've bled dry before the car's even started! As it stands, I dont think I'd get much for it, and yet it's had new tyres, new alternator, starter motor, and plugs (probably more but just can't remember). I'd want to get atleast £1500 for it - plus it's only got 117,000 miles on the clock. I'm happy either way if I'm honest - even if i keep it - it was a gift from my father and so it has alot of sentimental value.

    :)

    I'm mindful of time John and I wouldn't want to keep you up - so if you have to go at any point - I'd like to wish you a good night :)

    I'll be up for a while still - so much to do - so little time
     
    #116 Sam Dean, Jun 22, 2013
  17. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    Good Morning

    I can't see any way to open the bonnet via the front grill and the key still won't work!

    I don't know what to do. I need to open this car and being locked outside of it is a strange feeling.

    hmmm
     
    #117 Sam Dean, Jun 23, 2013
  18. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    I can see some nuts through the front grill. Is there a point on which I can apply pressure on in order to activate the latch mechanism?

    Here are some photos of what i can see through the front grill...
     

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    #118 Sam Dean, Jun 23, 2013
  19. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    ...maybe private message me if you know how to open the bonnet as this may not be a good thing to share in a public forum

    thanks
     
    #119 Sam Dean, Jun 23, 2013
  20. Sam Dean

    Sam Dean Member

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    i got into the car! Yipeee!

    you have to turn the key anti-clockwise but with alot more force....same with when you go to locking it up again

    anyway - i took a photo of the cables with the tape taken off, and as i thought, he's twisted the cabling together and taped over it. I didnt unwrap the second one fully because you'll get the idea.

    what should we do next?
     

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    #120 Sam Dean, Jun 23, 2013
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