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Open hood surgery coming soon

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by FnRedPrius, Feb 8, 2019.

  1. FnRedPrius

    FnRedPrius Active Member

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    Thanks to the daring escapades of @cnc97 and @Ragingfit I am going after our 2016 donor engine that has less than 6K on it in the morning. It will be going into a 2010.
    At this point, my only questions are:
    Is about the "clutch" damper assembly interchangeable? . I noticed that Ragingfit changed the assembly, but no commentary as to why.
    How do I ensure that the oil system is primed? I don't know how long this one has been sitting, but I'm sure it has been about 10 months. Can I pull the plugs and attempt a start in maintenance mode? How do I verify that I do have oil pressure other than pulling the sending unit?
    I am using the original intake and exhaust and the EGR valve is new and the cooler was just cleaned and will be checked.
    I know that I also have to make the plumbing change, but I haven't watched through enough to know exactly how to reroute the smaller hose but I know about to where.

    So, what am I missing or what else do I need?
     
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  2. FnRedPrius

    FnRedPrius Active Member

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    UPDATE... :confused:
    I went back into cnc97's engine swap thread and saw that the dampers would not interchange, so 15 more minutes to the job.
     
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  3. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    please keep us posted, all the best!(y)
     
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  4. FnRedPrius

    FnRedPrius Active Member

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    Okie Dokie boys and girls, update... Picked the motor up and was much better than I expected and actually better than I hoped for. Cunningham Brothers in Rustburg VA is a great place and from looking at the stuff on skids ready to go it looks like they ship about anything to anywhere. The engine is excellent. 5,810 miles and is exceptionally clean inside and out. They cut the hoses, but all of the wiring harnesses are intact and was d/c'ed at the large plugs. It also had the intake and EGR system intact so I may have to start selling on Ebay. Today (still Sunday for me) first order of business was housekeeping in the shop, then assembly of the hoist and engine stand, then unload the engine. I removed the hose remnants and hoses, then the damper from the flywheel. Then I found out that my electric impact isn't strong enough to remove the flywheel bolts, I went shopping for tools, but didn't get a large breaker bar (they didn't have any). Now, I'm on hold until Wednesday due to work

    After watching @Ragingfit 's videos (THANK YOU!!!!) I have most of my questions answered but now have a few new ones.
    1) Does anybody know if the wiring harnesses will be "plug and play" with the Gen 3 car?
    2) Will I need a lower radiator hose from a 2016 to make the connection from the section of galvanized pipe to the radiator?
    3) Is the galvanized pipe a threaded plumbing pipe or is it 1 inch conduit? I bought the threaded one, but the one in the video appears to be more like conduit.
    4) Does the water pump absolutely have to come off or does it just make it really tight getting it in?

    Right now, those are the such as I have, and I appreciate all of the help and support that I'm getting with this project.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    Question 2, lower hose from Gen 4 or the galvanized pipe is needed.

    Question 3, see question 2.

    Question 4, yes the water pump must come off. The timing cover will touch the subframe on the way out, at least it did when I pulled mine.
     
  6. Ragingfit

    Ragingfit Active Member

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    1) You should give the Gen 3 what it wants. As long as you plug in all the stuff that was plugged in before, it's plug and play.
    Leave the new coils and spark plugs. The old wiring harness plugs in as long as you remove some of the tape so it's long enough.
    Leave the fuel rail alone on the new engine! Injectors plug right in.
    Use the Gen 3 intake, throttle body, EGR and cooler, and exhaust manifold. Use all the old sensors and none (?) of the new.
    Use the old oil dipstick tube and dipstick.
    2) Use the original Gen 3 hoses on driver's side with a 1" galvanized pipe OR 1" rigid conduit. Pipe or rigid conduit without threads is better.
    3) Leave the harmonic balancer / pulley on the passenger's side, remove the water pump. You can try it with the pump still on but it doesn't look like there's room.
    For the oil pump, try not to turn the engine backwards. That would remove the oil / prime from the pump.
    As long as you don't disturb the oil pump it should be fine, but if you are concerned, the sending unit will give a reading on an ohm meter and then go to infinite resistance when there is oil pressure proving the pump is working.



    Best of luck!
    - Fix That Prius!!!
     
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  7. Ragingfit

    Ragingfit Active Member

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    Plug and Play!
     
  8. FnRedPrius

    FnRedPrius Active Member

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    I guess I should revise my remarks.... What I was trying to ask (and not very clearly) was about the 3 large connectors at the end of each harness. If it hasn't been tried, I'll try to match them up before I remove the harnesses from the donor engine.
     
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  9. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    I would use as much of the Gen 3 parts as humanly possible. I think if I had it to do over again, I would have installed the Gen 4 engine I got as purchased, but the time/funding limitations I was working under when mine came apart made that impossible.
    But it gives me pause every time someone asks/mentions the Gen 4 engine into Gen 3 that none of them might have occurred had I not tried mine. I even mentioned to one of the repair shops that I deal with that, with a small amount of work, you can put a Gen 4 motor into a Gen 3.
    I am almost 7500 miles post swap, and it still hasn’t used enough oil to measure it on the dipstick. There is not enough “blow-by juice” in my catch can to show up on it’s scale on the side of it. Plus, I learned and enormous amount of knowledge about my car doing the swap. So I’d say it’s been a great learning experience.
     
  10. Ragingfit

    Ragingfit Active Member

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    I have not tried it. I think I also got the whole wiring harness on one of my engines but I didn't want the Gen 3 to see a Gen 4 engine. I wanted the Gen 3 to see what it thinks is a Gen 3 engine.
    But hey, someone has to try new stuff. It might work.
    Best of luck!
    Please let us know so we can use it next time.
    - Fix That Prius!
     
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  11. FnRedPrius

    FnRedPrius Active Member

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    I have read and read and read some more, so hopefully I an mount an attack om the Prius.
    Now I'm looking to the torqe values for all them to keep together.

    THVM
     
  12. James Analytic

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    How'd the swap go and how's the new engine performing if you wound up following through?

    I've been blowing off 1.8L's with a struggle since the 50% of sales are nuts of a bargain even if I have to replace head gaskets, piston rings, timing chain and maybe water pump while at it in what I pull. I suppose even the connecting rods and pistons as well, though I don't know about so much that later other than installing the latest part numbers. I guess more-so the new connecting rods and how they seat on the used crank.

    Seems when the time comes, I'll do the above with my 2013's 1.8L or find a newer years engine like you did since reads like they're a better design.
     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    ^ I've read this a few times, and my brain hurts. Try again? What gen engine are you talking about, for starters?
     
  14. James Analytic

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    I'll try again Mendel. :) There are two salvage yards in the area that have 50% off sales for each check out transaction on anything you pick-pull from the yard if you donate a certain amount, usually has been $25 worth of something donated to their fundraiser.

    I usually only see the XW30 Prius (2010-2015) Gen 3 car present at the yards. I've never seen a newer gen 4 XW50, Prius Prime XW35 or Prius V ZVW40/41 that also use the 1.8L engine.

    Being that the Gen3 cars in the yard are typically 2010 or 2011 models, I assume they usually have bad head gaskets and the last one I looked at definitely had milk shake oil when I pulled the dip stick out to check. I also plan while at if I do a head gasket replacement to replace the timing chain and water pump possibly to newer (or the better) part number part with possibly some other further service like thorough cleaning, cylinder wall honing, piston oil seal ring and maybe some other parts replacement.

    Assuming the head gasket is all that is bad, for the 50% off sale price of $120-$150, I'm struggling with pulling or not pulling one of the gen 3 1.8L engines and rebuilding. This is due to two reasons. One being I'll most likely rebuild my own 2013 the same way. Second being if I can't rebuild (which I doubt), I'll most likely invest in a gen 4 1.8L engine to just swap in as-is other than the gen 4 parts replaced with my 2013 parts that are required to make the swap.

    Does that make more sense?

    Also, around my area, used to be at the yards where you can't pick parts and they already pull so are a full service yard, the price of 150K miles or less 1.8l engines were ~$1,200. For some reason the past years like COVID liberal inflation season I guess, the price skyrocketed to ~$3,200 to $4,000. I suppose this pricing is a third reason I am struggling to determine if I should invest in a salvage yard engine or not and at the least for a fourth reason, practice rebuilding as I tend to practice working on repairs at the yard as well even if I don't buy the parts. Though the later isn't really related so much since I'd bring the engine home to restore.

    The engine I'm talking about is the 1.8L 2ZR-FXE I think you get by now. :)
     
    #14 James Analytic, Mar 11, 2023
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2023
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  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Brand-new 3rd gen short blocks (with the new pistons and rings) are sold by dealerships for around $1800~1900 USD. If your head is sound, have a machine shop refurb it, supply them applicable items from Toyota's gasket kit, and then reassemble with new head gasket (included with that gasket kit) and new head bolts, is another option.

    Or a rebuilt engine:

    https://hybridpit.com/toyota-prius-2010-2015-1-8l-hybrid-engine-2zr-fxe-motor.html
     
  16. James Analytic

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    Yeah, I feel insane not getting one and seems like the prius can haul with no issues since the weight is under 300lbs. :) The only item I'd need to get would be an engine stand since I gave the one I had to my nephew , though technically I can place on wood blocks or even a tire interim.

    Glad you referenced that link, since shows a good itemized checklist to consider for those items that can be completed in their own shop where I can complete everything confidently other than in red:

    GOLD Package Rebuilt Engine:
    • Complete engine disassembly
      (pistons, rings, and other parts are discarded)
    • Thermal and or chemical cleaning
      (engine block, cylinder heads, cranks, cams)
    • Engine block crank inspection
      (Visual and/or Magnaflux)
    • Crankshaft reground as needed
    • Boring and honing of cylinders
    • Connecting rods are inspected and replaced if needed
    • Block resurfacing as required
    • Assembled to precision OEM Specs
    • Upper and Lower Cam Bearings Replaced (Toyota OEM)
    Re-manufacturing of cylinder heads

    (All cylinder heads are pressure tested for cracks and machined resurfaced)

    Also Includes:
    New Revised Toyota Pistons
    New Revised Toyota Piston Rings
    New Valve Seals (Intake and Exhaust)
    New Toyota Gaskets which includes O rings and Timing Chain Tensioner metal Gasket
    Felpro Headgasket (Better then OEM Toyota)
     
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