Opening engine after knocking!!

1. Not sure on that question, but from what i know mg 1 and 2 rotates faster then the engine and at opposite direction of the engine rotation and since the engine has a clutch between the Split power device it can disengage it self, so probably not.

2. Open your valve cover lubricate the cams with engine oil just coat the cams with some oil, with it next remove the spark plug and add 15-30 ml or 1-2 Tablespoon of oil into the spark plug hole next slowly rotate the engine 2 full cycles (8 rounds in the direction of the engine rotation) next inspect the camshaft and all of its related component (ie roller bearing lifters) for surface rust, next then drop the oil pan check for any metal fillers in the oil pump pick up line, replace the rear crank seal with a new one. Reassemble the oil pan and add oil into the engine, and you should be good to go. As you mention in your post you can remove the spark plug and fuel pump and let the MG 1 rotate the engine for a few seconds, but you may have a DTC (check engine light) or a check hybrid system warning light appear, or option two you can rotate the engine using via crank bolt.

 

1. You do not need to lock them in a specific place.

2. Running it without fuel to circulate oil isn't a bad idea. I would put a couple of ounces of Seafoam in each cylinder, spin the engine by hand a few times, put the spark plugs back in, and spin it a few more times. Popping off the valve cover and pouring some oil on the camshafts isn't a bad idea if you have the time.

-Avi

 

That u0293 is related to the HV ecu not been able to communicate, check the HV ecu cable, battery voltage.

 

I don't know where the HV ecu is i was quoting off a site that was saying possibilities of that code appearing. I'll try to some research on it though.


I want to clarify when you say the car won't start, you mean the

Everything turn on as usual but the engine is turning but dose don't run or

when you push the on button and nothing happens no lights turn on on the instrumental panel or

when you push the on button the everything turns on as usual but the "ready" symbol is not turn on.

Also did you open up the battery? There are some grounding points that will prevent the ecu to turn on if the battery was opened and not closed properly

 

How about the traction battery are you able to see battery level indcator on instrumental panel display. if so is it at least 2 bars on or more?

I'm thinking, not actually the problem but, the traction battery may have been depleted, because the power management control ecu is located in the traction battery, see link below in technical detail tab, with very low or no power in the traction battery than perhapse it may cause the HV ecu not to turn on and not to communicate. That's my wild guess.


http://www.aedve.info/cutaway/hbjba/index.html

 

Check for a blown fuse

 

Traction batteries will deplete over time even if its no in use or unplugged and 2 months is quite some time for these types of battery to hold charge, Theres also a low power safeguard that prevents the HV from operating if the traction battery power falls too low its there to protect the traction battery, and or the HV power management is only powered by Traction battery and not the aux battery (which also acts as a safeguard measure) with low power its not going to turn on, Your Best bet is to get that traction battery charged, the dealer is the only way to do it, i dont know of any other way that you can do w/o damaging the battery, towing the car and pressing the brake to regen is not going to work because the Power Management Control ECU (which manages the regen and discharge of the traction battery) is not going to turn on therefore the brake regen function is not going to work. Second option is to borrow or get another traction battery to get it started, however this will be a very expansive route.

 

you can charge the 7.2v cells individually with a hobby rc charger but its on the dangerous side

 

There is a seller advertising grid HV battery charger. $300 IIRC. Simple search should show it.

Edit:
ATTN ADMIN: the search is not working at all here. Probably google search should work.

 

By orange plastic "fuse" do you mean the service plug? If so, make sure you slide the lever back over to the right after locking it in place. I believe failure to do so would result in no connection to the HV battery and no-start condition as you describe. Agreed in that sitting for 2 months did not empty your HV battery.

 

The HV ECU is in the Hybrid Battery box part of the battery assy.

And like wynn says there have been countless issues with people not doing the last locking step when re-installing the orange safety plug on the side of the battery box. I am not familiar with the G3 lock it may be different than the G2 which I know how to do.

It is strange that's the only nag its throwing but really nice work so far. You tore that biatch up! We love pictures the more the better.
It will greatly contribute to our database.

 

I would definitely double and triple check that the orange safety disconnect on the HV battery is completely seated and closed (and that you know all the steps to do so). This seems to be a pretty common problem on the Gen 2's at least, to not get it completely locked down and closed after removal.

If that doesn't seem to do it, you should be able to pull the battery cover and measure the voltage (carefully) with a DVM. There should be two contactors (big relays) that isolate the + and - HV lines from the battery when not in ready mode. If you measure the voltage between the two on the battery side (rather than the side that goes out to the vehicle) you should read 0V when the safety plug is out (though the high impedance of the meter can give you a false reading here), and something above 200V when it is properly locked in. That will give you confirmation that it is locked correctly, and a rough idea what the SOC of the battery is.

Rob