"P LOCK MALFUNCTION: WHEN PARKING, PARK IN FLAT PLACE..."

Discussion in 'Prius c Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Blue Ridge Driver, Nov 18, 2017.

  1. Blue Ridge Driver

    Blue Ridge Driver Junior Member

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    My 2010 Prius won't start, and shows the "P Lock Malfunction" message whenever I try. Actually the problem now is it won't turn fully OFF, or fully start, so it's stuck in limbo. It seems to be a problem with the Parking button not engaging, or not telling the Power control that it is engaged, like a circuit is short or the wire has malfunctioned. I don't see any problems under the hood, but I am no expert.

    In researching chat groups & such, I have yet to see where anyone has come to a decisive conclusion. Lots of advice to check or replace the 12v battery, but it seems when a number of others have tried this, the problem still remains.

    Thanks.
     
  2. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    So.....out of curiosity, did you check your 12v? I saw a video posted on the site recently that showed Luscious Garage explaining the same thing. Seems to make sense to me. Faulty/weak 12v = inadequate power for starting up and keeping the electronics functioning correctly.
     
  3. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    this one can be difficult. maybe a door not fully closed, all the way to a high voltage leak. did tech stream produce any codes?
     
  4. Blue Ridge Driver

    Blue Ridge Driver Junior Member

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    I didn't get a chance to find out how (all the instructions online that I saw seemed to be for different models than mine?), and now I think the battery has indeed worn down, due to it not being able to power down completely, and my repeated attempts trying. Sigh.
     
  5. Blue Ridge Driver

    Blue Ridge Driver Junior Member

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    Haven't been able to figure out how to do a tech stream.... Sounds from others like it could be a bad combo meter? Replacing it apparently involves a Toyota dealer matching the new one with the car's exact mileage; I got a quote of ~$1300 for getting that done.

    Whether it's battery or high voltage leak (?) or combo meter or something else, it looks like I need to have the dang thing towed to a Toyota dealer. :(
     
  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    testing the 12v battery is easy, or just replace it if original. but if you can't do that, a dealer would be your best bet.
    how many miles on her?
     
  7. Blue Ridge Driver

    Blue Ridge Driver Junior Member

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    96K miles on her (though I think it's a him). I've seen enough reports of others that got this message saying the battery wasn't the problem after checking that, that I feel the need to go with a full diagnostic, despite being frustrated over 1. not being able to handle it myself, and 2. the likely high cost.

    I was never good enough with auto mechanics to take on simple things like VW maintenance or even oil changes, so I shouldn't be surprised I can't just fix this one myself; but I was hoping maybe I could.
     
    bisco likes this.
  8. Kevin York

    Kevin York New Member

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    Were you able to find out the issue? My car is doing the exact same thing.
     
  9. Dave79

    Dave79 New Member

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    We had one similar issue in 2011. It ended up being wire pinched and grounded right off the fuse box and also fuse was blown. I would check good under the hood and fuse box area.
     
  10. andreimontreal

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    SOLUTION for a car that doesn't have any other problem:

    If your battery drains (maybe you forgot a light on) this problem might appear. Disconnect the battery entirely (I mean either the + or -, I read from a Toyota mechanic that you need to disconnect in order to reset/wipe some codes/warnings in the computer). Reconnect, boost the car and it should start unless there's another problem (like mentioned above, cables shorting and whatnot).

    Andrei
     
  11. bk11341

    bk11341 New Member

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    I have a 2010 Lexus HS250h with 200k miles on it. Today I experienced the same issue on a vehicle that has NEVER had any problems. I assumed the problem was a weak battery so I tried to jump it with my other car...after about a half hour of charging it, no luck. Then I hooked it up to a Diehard battery charger which connects to a power outlet in my garage. In less than a minute, it solved the problem completely. The car immediately turned over and all systems were functioning normally. I know NOTHING about cars, but I think it may be possible that the steady 120v current from the Diehard could have reset something in one of the computers. I’m not sure if this qualifies as a solution, but I thought I should share it with anyone who might be interested.
     
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