P00AA6 trying to figure it out

If you have a P0AA6 (DTCs are all five characters, not six) and it comes back after being reset, you do have a high voltage isolation fault somewhere. If you can have the codes read with Techstream (at a dealer or an independent shop that deals often with Toyotas, for example), you can pull the "inf code" that goes with the P0AA6, which will narrow it down for you to a few possible areas (A/C compressor, inf code 611, transaxle, 613, though codes 614, 612, and 526 are pretty broad and they all overlap a lot, so you will still have diagnostic work to do, to determine where the leak is exactly).

It is possible that the P0AA6 is the only thing responsible for the brake warning lights you reported on the dash earlier, only because the brake/skid computer will set some echo codes of its own just because it has been notified of a code from the HV subsystem like P0AA6. C1310 (5,1 blinked on the VSC light) and C1259 (5,8 or 5,9 on the brake warning light) are two of those codes. So, yes, if you pull the brake system codes and those are the only ones you have, then you can safely disregard those and concentrate on the P0AA6 HV code.

-Chap

 

Definitely might be an insulation failure. But can you get a more hybrid compatible scan tool, to extract any subcodes that might be attached to the AA..code.

 

what do you mean you replaced the battery? the HV battery pack or the 12 volt? before spending a lot of time and money on having everything tested remove
the HV battery from the car, take the cover off and look for rust marks, along the edge of the case and try to look where the mods are screwed in place at the bottom .. if you see rust that mod is leaking causing a short to ground and that would throw the high voltage code. replace the mod and its good to go.. $30 bucks for one on e bay.. I had the same issue on my 08 2 years ago... replaced one mod and its been fine since.

 

how many miles on her?

 

ok your issue is the HV battery as I mentioned.. watch a you tube video on how to remove it.. not hard takes about an hour.. dealers will tell you it needs a new $3000 battery, or a $2300 CVT (transmission).. then never open the battery to check the mods

 

I'm not sure what you're getting at here. The P0AA6 could be described as high-voltage "leakage", but that kind of "leakage" isn't something you can see. (Under the wrong circumstances, it is something you can feel ... at all costs, strive to avoid those circumstances.)

As far as the brake system lights being on, there are lots of things those could mean besides leaks. They could also just be the C1310 and/or C1259 I mentioned earlier, which would mean no actual brake problem at all, and just refer you back to the HV isolation problem. Reading the codes is the easy way to find that out.

Pace Beachbummm, the HV battery is not the only place an HV isolation fault can be (and it's a rather pricey part to replace just to find out). Reading the inf codes described above will give you more information on where the fault might be. There's also an old, tried and true process you can read about here that involves clearing the code first, then seeing if it comes back (a) as soon as the car is IG-ON, (b) as soon as the car is READY, or (c) only when the car is put in D or R. (There should be a fourth step in there that involves using the air conditioner).

Those things (reading the codes and inf codes, and checking the timing of when the codes return) are things you can safely do. Further tests, as you can find in the repair manual, can involve removing covers over high voltage connections or using a "megger" tester. These are not things to take lightly, and if you do not own at least a good set of class 0 high voltage gloves that you trust, you could wisely choose to leave those parts to someone else.

You can find a lot of PriusChat posts that sound pretty cavalier about opening up the battery and looking around, and a lot of the time, that isn't too crazy (there is a safety disconnect to be pulled first, reducing the risks), even though Toyota does advise gloves always without exception.

But the one time it really is crazy to dive in there without full precautions is when you know you have a P0AA6, because in that case, you know there is already some other high-voltage path being followed, that might not be broken by the normal safety interlocks.

-Chap

 

High Voltage Isolation Leak
Electrical System issue

You wouldn't see it dripping \

and you sure don't want to ever feel it when touching the car

edit : Chap types faster them me.... Thanks for your great post and especially the P0AA6 info

 

sometimes it is the a/c compressor. but as mentioned above, could be corrosion inside the battery.
if you're in a carb state, ask the dealer about goodwill warranty help from toyota.

 

It can be anywhere the high voltage is: the battery, the inverter, the transaxle, the A/C, any of the orange cables between any of those things. There was a post on here recently where someone tracked it down carefully to a defect in one of the orange connectors plugging on to the inverter.

It doesn't matter so much where it was for anybody else, as where it turns out to be for the OP. It just has to be methodically tracked down.

-Chap

 

NOTE: if you see high voltage dripping, RUN!!!!

 

High voltage dripping is called an arc or, if naturally occurring, lightning.

 

"drip"

 

Not to raise the tone one here, but that's electric flatulence for ya

 

I chose to be an electrician rather than a plumber because you never have to mop up electrons.

 

I knew Jerry was gonna say something here about this! Is that also part of the Togo stuff too?

 

No, but I have seen electrons do some pretty violent stuff over the years.