P0A80 and P3000 odd issues

it's the delta between cells. i am no expert, but there are lots of diagnosis and rebuild threads here.
what i do know is, if you want to start replacing cells, be prepared to keep doing it on a fairly regular basis
have you cleaned the cooling fan and intake grille?

 

Block 4 is the block to look at from the P0A80 screen and the INF code to look up for P3000 is 124 based on that screen shot.

A $20 2 business day subscription to techinfo.toyota.com will help with the next steps.

Good luck and keep us posted .

 

BECAUSE there is an issue w/ the HV Battery, as noted by DTC P0A80. Many people before you have also complained of lack of acceleration and hearing the hybrid battery fan. Lack of acceleration/power is because the HV Battery is unable to provide the necessary energy to the electric motor.

IIRC (If I Recall Correctly) P0A80 gets triggered for a multitued of possibilities. A 0.2V difference is one of the thresholds. Block 4 shows a massive 1.4V difference compared to the other 13 blocks. One or both of the modules in this block is suspect: leaking maybe, weak cell, etc.

NO! This isn't a child's toy or a tv remote control where you could just swap in a used AA battery and still get decent functionality.

A module contains six cells, enclosed in a non-serviceable package (designed not to be opened). You will have to possess some insane level of DIY aptitude to be able to pull off a cell replacement, then somehow reseal the module. Also, the computer monitors the HV battery in 14 blocks, consisting of 28 module pairs, thus the 14blocks.

Answer these questions, to help you figure out what you want to do:

Which do you value more: saving money or time/reliability?
Do you have ready access to a 2nd vehicle?
What is your automotive mechanical DIY ability?
Is this vehicle used for work: sales/delivery person/uber/lyft/doordash/podmates/etc
Are others dependent on you for transportation (ie kids)?
How much longer do you plan to keep the car?
Do you have a long distance tow option?
​

Factual information below that you may, or may not, find helpful:

Member 2k1Toaster's company is a viable option for a new HV Battery (via kit), if you can NOT find a dealer to sell you the HV Battery at a price you deem reasonable. NewPriusBatteries

A new OEM HV battery is pricey, but it will likely give you 8-10+years of reliability. Cheapest online price for a genuine OEM HV Battery, from an actual dealer is $1699.70; Conicelli Toyota; a member recently acquired one for his daughter. You will still need to verify that a dealer will sell you the HV Battery, as not all dealers will do so. Don't forget, you should always call local dealers to see if they will beat or match the cheapest online dealer part price.

Amortize the cost over the likely life expectancy of 10years, then it might not be so expensive for you.
$1699.70/10years = $169.97/year = $14.16/month = $3.54/week = $0.51/day
Give-up 3 Starbucks latte a month, for the next 10years, you just paid for this HV Battery.

The car could be worth $zero. But, the HV Battery gives you flexibility . It can be transferred into a younger/lower mileage Gen2 (2004-2009), or into a Gen3 (2010-2015) via module swap (Gen2 modules into the Gen3 HV Battery case), and possibly into a Gen4 (module swap into Gen4 case). Also, you could sell this OEM HV Battery, recovering a fair amount of your expense, if a cost prohibitive auto accident or future repair bill occurs.

A used/rebuilt/remanufactured/reconditioned HV Battery is NOT a reliable repair. Very few good "rebuilds" exist b/c the Gen2 modules are 9-14 years, old and getting older.​

Module swapping and used/rebuit/remanufacture/reconditioned HV Battery, count on future breakdowns.

If you need to pay for labor, you should contact Lusciou's Garage (SF) or Art's Automotive (Berkely). These two shops are reputable, competent, and knowledgeable.

 

Good job, please let us know how long it lasts, if you wouldn't mind.

 

Please be very careful, because (even with the orange safety plug removed), the battery has enough voltage to stop your heart (truthfully; it is more powerful than a defibrillator which I use at work, so.... use proper safety equipment, linesman's gloves etc (there will be other threads about this).

As noted, the module pair that makes up block 04 looks like one of the modules has one of the 1.2v cells completely dead. You will have to figure out which of the two modules in the block it is (from the data you posted earlier, I would hope that one of the two modules is about 1.2-1.4 volts below the other).

One issue is that, when a module pair (total of 6x2 = 12 cells, 6 in each module) goes bad, the car can overcharge the 'good' module, so that too can be come damaged - keep an eye out for this down the line (although the Prius doesn't have active balancing, it does have a form of balancing due to NiMH battery chemistry).

I would recommend getting an OBD-2 plug-in (Wifi only if using an Apple device, but I think Bluetooth and Wifi both work if using Android devices). I use EngineLink (Apple) which shows all the data you posted above in real time. I think the Android app is Torque Pro or something like that.
-> The benefit of this is that you can watch your modules and see if they are falling out of sync in real-time. While I don't advise doing that while driving (!), letting the car charge the battery, running the air-con etc, lets you watch all the cells, delta, and lets you see if one of the blocks is falling quicker than the rest.

You really should balance the replacement module / modules with the rest of the pack. I've never done this but many people here are very experienced with this. Even then I would watch it in realtime with the car parked and running - bring some music and a good book (I sat in my car for 2-3 hours recently, after a random short caused cell imbalance - after many days, starting the car and letting it charge / discharge slowly, it finally went back into balance).

(As a final note - if getting a Toyota OEM pack, or 2k1Toaster's kit (which I think is pretty cool and which I will use one day for my car), please make sure that the battery computer (contained in the battery case) is OK. Specifically, check the orange connector (which comes from the battery and plugs into the engine computer) for any corrosion, dirt, overheating. Also check the pins on the computer orange plug for any corrosion (especially one of the corner pins going grey or, worse, green or blue). If you find this, take photos and post here to prevent major problems down the line).

Please keep us updated, and please be safe!

 

No!

The HV battery is a series string of 168 cells. They are monitored in groups of 12 cells. This monitoring does not mean those 12 cells are linked or work together in any special way. A bad cell does not affect it's group any more than all the other cells. The same current goes in and out of all the cells.

NiMH chemistry does tend to self balance when overcharged.

 

NiMH does have a fairly high self-discharge rate when at a higher SoC; I believe this is why the Prius BMS doesn't have any balancing circuitry or log - the chemistry takes care of it (EDIT : this may also mean that a module which is partially overcharged could dissipate the overcharge as heat over a few hours, meaning that this would be one way that a Prius could maintain battery balance even without any active battery balancing circuitry - as long as the imbalance was mild enough and not due to any major problems)

I am a novice re: the full battery pack. When sitting in my Prius with a dodgy battery pack (one module with a 'dead' cell), it seems to keep trying to regain balance - by charging up the battery so that most of the module-pairs are near their maximum voltage. The car seems to restart the engine, and charge the battery for a while (15 seconds, up to a few minutes) when one module-pair goes low. This happened with a battery which is in very good condition except one module has a totally dead cell; the battery was later discharged by me to around 50% SoC and will be reconditioned at another date (next few months)

I completely agree with your statement of 'No!' - but also, I worry about the computer code. I will try my best to get all the computer code as soon as possible (for NWH20 Prius)!

 

i had p0a80 and p3000! I got it removed by scanner and it reappeared! Got the battery serviced and worked fine for 3 weeks and code is back again!

I got it checked and now my mechanic says battery hai 14 weak cells! Pic is attached below! Car is a little rough in drive now as it convers to engine as soon as paddle is pressed!

Pls suggest what needs to be done!

 

I replied in the other thread you posted the same post. (Please don't do that (cross-post), btw.)

 

In fact, I'd suggest clicking the "report" button and asking a moderator to remove your post if it's too late to edit it. Having the same question in multiple threads makes it almost impossible to have a conversation since some people are reading one and others read the other one and no one has all the info.