P0A80 and P3015 with cooling fan coming on.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Michael Bones, Mar 12, 2019.

  1. Michael Bones

    Michael Bones Junior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2019
    31
    5
    0
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    I'm not sure how to do that when the car is sitting in my driveway and it's the only car I have. Do you mean that I need to take the aux 12v out of the car and take it to someone who can test it under a load like Pep Boys? I paid $200.00 for it about 2yrs ago.

    LOL Jerry!
     
    jerrymildred likes this.
  2. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2016
    6,359
    7,948
    0
    Location:
    Tampa, FL
    Vehicle:
    2017 Prius Prime
    Model:
    Prime Premium
    12.7 volts resting is fine. 14.5 or 14.7 in ready mode is perfect. Ignore the comment about the car reducing the charge voltage when it's fully charged. You can load test the 12V with a headlight bulb, some wires, and your multi-meter or Pep Boys can test it, but it's next to impossible for those voltages to cause a bogus P0A80 code. Especially when the car is also telling you which block has failed.
     
    Skibob likes this.
  3. Michael Bones

    Michael Bones Junior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2019
    31
    5
    0
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    That is what I was thinking Jerry. I have been in the automotive business for 35 years but this Hybrid stuff is a whole different world. I have read that the HV ECU sometimes can get sketchy and this battery has been in and out of the car about 3 times so I was thinking that maybe a faulty connection might be somewhere. I would think though that if lets say the connection on block 5 was sketchy then the resistance values would be higher.
     
  4. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2016
    6,359
    7,948
    0
    Location:
    Tampa, FL
    Vehicle:
    2017 Prius Prime
    Model:
    Prime Premium
    Before buying anything, it's a good idea to check the wiring harness on the traction battery. The sensing wires can get corroded and those bad connections can trick the ECU into thinking there is high resistance and/or low voltage on a block. And '07 could be a candidate for a bad battery OR a bad connection.
     
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

    Joined:
    May 11, 2005
    83,650
    36,562
    0
    Location:
    boston
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius Plug-in
    Model:
    Plug-in Base
    I was responding to post #18

    It may be time for you to start reading the hv battery testing and repair threads
     
    jerrymildred likes this.
  6. Avi's Advanced Automotive

    Avi's Advanced Automotive Independent hybrid repair shop

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2012
    758
    339
    0
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA
    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    Model:
    Three
  7. Michael Bones

    Michael Bones Junior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2019
    31
    5
    0
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    Thanks for your guys guidance. I'm still dead in the water. It almost seems like there is a bad connection somewhere.
    I'll give an update as soon as I can.
     
    bisco and Raytheeagle like this.
  8. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2016
    2,425
    2,882
    0
    Location:
    Columbia, SC
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    All the information is directly in front of you. Block 5 IS BAD. The voltage readings show it black and white. In your situation, a voltage reading can be used to reliably tell if a module is bad, but it can't be used to reliably say a module is good.

    You said all blocks are 16.5 volts, except Block 5 which is 15 volts.........it's jumping up and down screaming "look at me"

    Each block is two modules in series. Each module is made of (6) cells inside the plastic housing. Each cell is 1.2v, therefore each module is 7.2 volts nominal, but can be in the high 8s when fully charged.

    In this case, being at a semi high state of charge a block that is 16.5 volts is really 2 modules that are ~8.25 volts each. (6) internal cells are therefore ~1.4 volts each.

    Sooooo........in simple terms...your 15 volt block 5 is actually one module at 8.25 volts and one module at 6.75 volts. This is what happens when ONE cell in a module fails. It loses 1/6th of it's voltage. 8.25 volts minus 1.4 volts =6.85 volts...close enough.

    Fix block 5 and your problems will go away.

    Read a bit of the thread in the link below....

    Just Another HV Battery Thread and Experiments | PriusChat
     
    #28 TMR-JWAP, Mar 23, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2019
    atlsud, Raytheeagle and jerrymildred like this.
Loading...