P0A80 code, have current voltage information.

A snapshot of the voltages of your blocks is not particularly useful. You will want to use Torque Pro's graphing function to track how each block performs as the battery discharges under load. P0A80 is just the catch-all code for HV battery problems. There should be other more specific codes that will tell you which of the blocks is becoming weak or which sensors are showing readings out of normal range. Are you sure your code reader can properly identify all hybrid error messages? Does it have the ELM 327 chip? If you can avail yourself of a Mini VCI cable and Techstream on a laptop, that would be the best choice.

The message about the Transmission P Lock is unrelated and I am not familiar with it. Possibly that code is not being properly translated by the software or it may be one that is no longer current on your car. Have you ever had a problem getting the car to Ready mode or getting it out of Park?

 

Ok, you might be right. In any event, making sure your 12V has a good charge is the starting point for any kind of diagnosis. Once it has been determined it has the proper voltage (say 12.5 or more, after resting), you can move to the next step.

You can select from many different versions of the Mini VCI cable on Amazon, probably all of which come with at least one version of Techstream. The problem is their reliability is all over the map. Be prepared to return any that aren't working for you. I would recommend the one I have, but other people have reported problems with that particular one. Possibly what I have needed it for (so far just to read the tire pressures in the TPMS system to find out which sensor was getting flakey) is a less difficult assignment than others have given it. At least mine connects to the car every time without complaint. (If you get one that can't connect properly, return it immediately). I'm sorry I can't be more definitive about what you should get (unless you want to spend the $480 to get the official Mongoose cable, that is).

Your BAFX code reader should be fine for working with Torque Pro or Dr. Prius or Hybrid Assistant. I'm not sure about the other one. If you are not seeing any codes other than the P0A80, perhaps your HV battery is having intermittent connection issues, probably due to corrosion on some of the pins on the battery's ECU.

 

The $07EB might mean something to someone in this forum. I didn't see any reference to that in the manual.

 

Banksy, I've see your other posts. What's the goal here? Reliability or just getting the code resolved? If the former, get a new battery (all new modules), be done with the problem and have a new car in terms of EV functions. If the latter, continue with the wack-a-mole game of fixing the next module that fails, and then the next and the next.... or get a refurb battery (quality varies) and hope it's a good one (the most failures I've seen posted here is 6 Doorman failures).

I've done two so if you care to read about those, see the link in my sig.

GOOD LUCK!

 

Yes, as you are driving it, the battery will cycle continuously from a relatively high state of charge to a lower state of charge and then back again. A weak module will lose its charge more rapidly than the good modules as the battery discharges (as measured by its voltage) and will likely charge more quickly to a higher voltage than the others when it is in the charging part of the cycle. It is important to watch how the module's voltages are moving as the battery cycles, rather than just their values at a given point of time.

There is a Graphing option at the bottom of the main menu in Torque Pro, but come to think of it, I actually use the Logging function under Realtime Information to develop graphs of my blocks' voltages over time. When you select Realtime Information, as you have done to produce your snapshots, you will see a Gear icon on the bottom left of your screen. Selecting that brings up a menu that includes "Start Logging". Once you've started logging, the app will save a complete set of the data points of the parameters you have chosen to display in Realtime Information (i.e your Block Voltages) every second of elapsed time. I would suggest letting the app log your data points as you are driving down the road for 5 minutes or so. After that, you can select the "Stop Logging" option under the Gear icon. Selecting "Email Logs" under the Gear icon will send a CSV file to an Email address. That file can opened in Excel, and you can use Excel's graphing function, if you like. I usually just eyeball the values in each column and look for abnormal behavior in my blocks' voltages. You can add filters and formulas isolating minimum and maximum voltage values to help you zero in on the blocks that are the most problematic.

I am attaching a file I got from Torque Pro when I was analyzing our Gen 2's HV battery a few years ago.

P.S. Note that each block is a pair of modules, only one of which may be failing, but that block will behave abnormally, even if the other module is good.

 

You don't have an alternator. Just put a volt meter on the 12V battery when the car is in ready mode. Doesn't matter if the engine is running or not, just so it's READY. The 12V battery should read roughly 14V give or take a couple tenths of a volt. That'll tell you if the DC/DC converter is working. Failures are extremely rare.

Are you driving all short trips? With any car, you have to drive it more than a couple miles per drive to keep the 12V charged up.

 

A new 12V won't help unless the present one is bad. If the present one isn't bad, it won't help. There are way cheaper ways to find out if a battery is bad than replacing it. First find out what's wrong, then deal with that. It sounds like you are driving far enough to keep it charged.

This sure sounds like a possible a low 12V battery to me, so that will take a little research. Then again, there really could be a problem with the P Lock mechanism.

The P0A80 code sounds like a bad traction battery, but it should have a sub code telling you which module is getting weak. But a low 12V has the potential to cause several codes due to insufficient power for the computers and sensors. One would be the P Lock.

What I would do is put the 12V on a charger overnight. Take off the charger in the morning and leave the hood open so you don't activate the brake pump opening the driver's door to release the hood latch. Wait about an hour and then make sure the voltage is over about 12.4. I'm not a stickler for having it at 100% all the time. If it's 12.4 volts, everything should work OK. Then see what codes you get. Hopefully, you won't get any codes.

Others who study up on this stuff more than I do can probably give more details about what might happen at various charge levels on the 12V battery, but this is a good place to start.