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P0A80 didn't go away after swapping modules.

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Higgins909, Jan 15, 2023.

  1. Higgins909

    Higgins909 Member

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    2010 Prius
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    III
    Car sat about 2 weeks while I was cycling the modules. Just got everything back together and took it for a drive. It drove like crap for a bit as the rotors were rusty. Still kinda drove like crap. It was avoiding use of the HVB. I drove to the gas station maybe 3 miles away. At some point around getting gas, I noticed the HVB had a module voltage in the 9v range. Car had 2 bars HVB. Then all the sudden it jumped to whatever is about 2 bars short of full.

    It seemed to have started driving nicer at some point after getting gas. My plan is to now run the 2 tests with Dr Prius. I also noticed Dr Prius was fairly inaccurate with it's modules are bad. I replaced 8 cells and only 5 were bad. I just wanted to get them all over 2000mah capacity. 6.4v-8.7v. Dr Prius said I had a problem in block 1 which was completely fine, then a imbalance in block 7 which was just garbage. Block 11 was as well but 0 mention of it.

    Will this code clear anytime soon? I tried to unplug the 12v for 5 minutes like dr prius said after clearing code. Which may have been a contribution to it driving crappy. I've got to get a inspection done this month and don't know if it will pass because of this. (Austin area of Texas)

    Thanks,
    Higgins909
     
  2. Higgins909

    Higgins909 Member

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    I did a life expectancy test just before taking it apart with the full battery test. Couldn't find it so I'm showing the old one which is the same IIRC. Then there is the tests that I just did 20 minutes ago. I hope it goes away soon.
    Screenshot_2022-12-25-13-58-24-73_4c9d9310924d052fe4000da8e14e845e.jpg Screenshot_20220610-200130.jpg Screenshot_2023-01-15-11-34-46-96_4c9d9310924d052fe4000da8e14e845e.jpg IMG_20230115_114825.jpg
     
  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Keep in mind that whenever you do a code clear (or unhook the 12 V battery), you are also resetting all of the car's emissions monitors to read 'incomplete', even the ones that haven't got anything to do with whatever problem you're focused on, which means no inspection for you until they all go back to 'complete' with passing results. Some of those will take longer / more driving / different driving conditions than others.

    So it can be kind of a dicey thing to do if you know you have an inspection coming up. Sometimes better to refrain from code clearing and 12 V unhooking, and just focus on driving the single confirmation pattern for whatever code you think you have fixed.
     
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  4. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I replaced 8 cells and only 5 were bad. I just wanted to get them all over 2000mah capacity. 6.4v-8.7v.

    Can you explain this? How are you measuring capacity? What device are you using?
     
  5. Higgins909

    Higgins909 Member

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    I bought a lipo charger off amazon. It does all kinda of batteries. I couldn't set it to 6v discharge so I went with 6.4v as the next setting down was 5.6v iirc. Every video I seen, everyone was doing 6v. 1.45v is supposed to be the max voltage per "cell" and 8.7v per module.

    The 5 bad modules I replaced for sure, were struggling around 1000mah. But what told me they were bad is that every time I cycled them, they might of improved, but then they would get worse. Every other module when cycled, it would get better and better. The other 3 were around 1700-1900. Here is my google spreadsheet.
     
  6. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    What settings are you using? You have something not working quite right. I don't disagree with the ones you replaced, but your numbers are likely very inaccurate. If I had those results on a battery, none of those modules would ever see a car again. Again, though, some of it depends on your settings and what wire gauge you're using for your cables.

    You should also always do a discharge first. That gives you an idea of the amount of energy that was stored in the module when it was removed from the car. It's a very accurate indicator of initial module condition
     
  7. Higgins909

    Higgins909 Member

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    I was using NiMH mode. Discharge at 2amps to 6.4v. It only ever hit about 1.4amps max. Charge at 5amps. To whatever voltage it decided to stop. I think the cables the charger had were a little thicker, but I was using 16AWG for the cables I had to make to plug in to charger and reach with usable connectors. I was originally cycling 5 times but found it was taking too long and switched to 3.

    Some modules I cycled some more to make sure they were dead. I had some charger problems on modules 1&2, 13&14, 27&28 and lost numbers. I had to restart the charging cycle. That's why 1&2 have to be that bad, that first discharge. I'm just trying to make it to summer. Thought $200~ in some replacement cells and call it good. Just gotta get by.
     
  8. Higgins909

    Higgins909 Member

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    I forgot to mention. Dr Prius can see the code, but the little scan tool I have can't. It's just waiting for the evap "MIL" was it to go from incomplete to complete. Something like 6 of 7 systems are complete. Not sure of its brand or model but can dig it back out and even try to scan for that info, if needed. I've probably done about 70-100 miles so far since I put it all back together. I think it usually pops up on the dash around 200 miles. Maybe it will clear itself, around there instead?
     
  9. Higgins909

    Higgins909 Member

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    So I bought it in 2017 with 163k, stock. It's now 192k with oversized AT tires and a 1.5" lift. Since replacing modules, it seems it might be getting better mpg, not sure. But I've actually been able to drive and accelerate almost too fast in EV mode. Something I haven't really been able to do since I put on the bigger tires about 2 years ago.

    So I did a little road trip, trying to put some miles on it to try and get the light to come on, on the dash. It hasn't. It's got right around 213miles since I got it all back together. I can get my scanner to sometimes see the P0A80 code. I don't know why it mainly can't see it. Dr Prius has no problem seeing it. Dr Prius says everything is fine otherwise.

    I might go tomorrow after work or Saturday morning to see if I fail inspection. All of the EVAP and other systems are complete. Maybe I'm going to have to get even more modules... Not sure where to buy them. I bought mine off ebay and the 1st order were really good modules and then the 2nd order, not as good but better than what they were replacing. Seems most sellers go by voltage and not capacity.