P0a93 code on road trip

Most likely the inverter pump has gone out which keeps the inverter from overheating. 100 miles is too far to drive in this condition. The pump is not expensive to change out when DIY but being on the road you may have little choice but to use a dealership $$$.

If it is the inverter, that is a major expense and not a roadside repair.

GOOD LUCK!

 

Best to get OEM inverter pumps; last longer. There are postings of people who have bought after market pumps, only having to do the repair again.

You should search online for Toyota dealer discount coupons, to save a little money. If you belong to AAA, Costco, or AmEx, there are Toyota service/parts discount coupons.

The only upside w/ this emergency repair is the inverter pumps lasts a long time. 100K+ miles! READ to see how long some people got on their original inverter pump. Inverter pump life? | PriusChat

For reference, here's a how-to inverter pump replacement. How to Replace the Inverter Coolant Pump | PriusChat
I would probably follow Patrick's recommendation of replacing the inverter pump at 100k miles; ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

 

Metro,

That's about $500 at a dealership. If you have a location to work at, or a friend in the area, you can buy the pump at an Autozone for about $140 (?), a set of hose clamping pliers (you'll need 2 mediums) and a metric socket kit and a long (ish) extension. Remove the driverside headlight and swap the pump yourself. If you do it right you'll only lose about 3-4 ounces of fluid. watch a few you tube videos first and you'll see how easy it can be.

 

If the temperature is not that hot outside, you should be able to drive a good distance without the pump working. I knew a guy that drove an entire hour with that pump out and nothing bad happened.

 

When the Prius is READY, look for fluid turbulence in the inverter fluid reservoir which is proof the inverter pump is working. If you do not see this then have the pump replaced immediately.

The lights turning off may be indicative that the pump failed intermittently.

 

YES!

97K miles is close enough to 100K miles. Just change it and be done.

When you hit 150K miles/15years, both engine and inverter cooling loops need to be DRAIN and FILLED.
I would get the 3-way coolant control valve replaced then. The one draw back of waiting so long is you may not have cabin heat, if this valve is stuck in the wrong position.

You need to makes some calls and ask. Labor rates are all over the place just like real estate. $500K might get you a condo in an ok area in LA County. $500K in the mid-West/South, will get you a mansion on acres.

The shop will likely pinch off the hoses, resulting in minimal coolant loss (a few ounces: 1-5oz). They will try to charge you for a gallon of coolant which is absurd. Supply your own Toyota SLLC coolant and have them top off with that.

 

It was a tight fit but here's the way I did it. Sorry, I don't have pics which would easily explain my method.

Removed the front inverter mount bracket, used a small pry bar under the front lip to gently raise the inverter enough to wedge a small block of wood between the lip and the upper radiator support (IIRC) for better access to the pump/hoses. Remove pump bolts and lift pump up to get at hose clamps which also makes coolant flow back away from the pump. Used vice grips to close off the hoses (spilled maybe an ounce or two) while replacing pump. Took about 45 minutes working slowly.

 

I would get something like this, $16.

Longer handle = better leverage.
Ratcheting locking mechanism = as you squeeze, it locks. Squeeze again and flip the lock mechanism the other way to unlock.
Yeah, the fakes of these on Amazon are a little cheaper, but you get what you pay for.

You don't use lube to remove or put on. You should apply a little bit of coolant (old or new) onto the inside of the hoses and the new mounting spot on the new pump. The coolant will act as a "lubricant" to help get the hoses on.

There is a hose tool that has a small point (straight or 90degree). Some people use this to help "break" the seal, by inserting the point and going around the circumference.

I was able to use channel locks and CAREFULLY work the hose off the pump ends.

Get calipers to measure. Or coins to see which is close to the diameter. Or piece of paper against the opening and draw the circumference w/ a felt pen/sharpie.

You will want to get a flexible hose clamp cable pliers. It makes life easy to remove the clamp on hoses.
This set from Amazon is actually very good b/c it has everything, $47! Even the pointed hose seal breaker tool (straight point and 90degree).