P0A9E Code after battery rebuild

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by ContainsJuice, Mar 24, 2020.

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  1. ContainsJuice

    ContainsJuice Junior Member

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    I have a 2006 Prius and after I had a faulty battery code we rebuilt the battery with a new cell to replace the one bad cell. Now we dont have that code anymore but P0A9E is coming up and not letting the car completely start up
     
  2. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Recheck your work and in particular, check the temperature sensors and/or the wiring harness.
     
  3. ContainsJuice

    ContainsJuice Junior Member

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    I definitely will. I just got everything in late and will recheck tomorrow. My friend and I were just confused because we made sure while we were putting everything back together. It could something dumb like something dislodging. I post an update tomorrow. Thanks for the reply
     
  4. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    ... or a broken sense wire.
     
  5. ContainsJuice

    ContainsJuice Junior Member

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    Yaaaaah. Do you know if that's able to be bought alone. Or do I have to do the classic, one things broke so buy the whole new battery
     
  6. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    I think the smallest unit is the no. 2 wireframe. You certainly do not need to buy a whole battery,
     
  7. ContainsJuice

    ContainsJuice Junior Member

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    Ok thank god.
     
  8. ContainsJuice

    ContainsJuice Junior Member

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    Well an update finally. After a week of shipping I ended up getting 5 more cells to throw in. We found out that we of course forgot a sensor plug so after that it started up just fine. After a few feet of a test drive it flashed some new codes. P0AA6. After a few reads we determined it is the battery and it says there is a leak. But I think I might be going crazy because there is absolutely no leak whatsoever. We thought, since there were several stripped tiedowms on the cells that maybe it wasn't connecting properly. I ended up replacing those 3 and one that looked a little bit stripped. Everything fit snug except for 1, but we went for it anyway. Still the same codes. We are going to try replacing that one "bad" one but we'll see. Are we attacking the wrong problem? If there is a absolutely no electrolyte leak then why is it throwing that code?
     
  9. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Is the battery grounded properly?
     
  10. ContainsJuice

    ContainsJuice Junior Member

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    It should be. We made sure to to put everything back in the right place and the right way. Is there something we should look out for in particular?
     
  11. ContainsJuice

    ContainsJuice Junior Member

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    I also wanted to mention we got a sub code of 526
     
  12. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    That is just a general "You got an isolation fault somewhere in the hybrid system". You need to cycle the car two or three more times at which time you should see a second sub-code (611-614) that will pinpoint the sub-system the ECU thinks has the problem.

    612 means the fault is in the HV (hybrid vehicle) battery.
     
  13. ContainsJuice

    ContainsJuice Junior Member

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    Another update: well then...
    Good news and bad news. The good news is the ground fault problem is gone, thanks to new bus bars and bus bar nuts. But the bad news, back to square one basically. Poa80. I have a question however, all the cells were charged after I put it in the car so all the voltage is up again. This time #1 is high with an 8.06v and #2 is low with a 7.88v. Seeing as all the other cells are randing from 7.99 to 8v could that be the problem? They are both original cells and I'm pretty sure got zapped by something metal but still hold a charge. Were they shorted and thats why my car is throwing that code? Thank you again guys for the help, its been a journey
     
  14. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Module 1 @ 8.06 V might be higher than the other 26 modules but is well within range. Module #2 (second module in block 1, I presume) is toast, maybe. It is around the 1.2 V difference of the others which would indicate one cell within it is dead. It should become more obvious if you were to do some charge/discharge cycles on all of the modules.

    If you haven't already come across the information, the image below shows how the blocks and modules are counted consistent with how Techstream and other ODB tools report it:

    Prius Gen II HV Battery module ID.png


    BTW, what you are calling cells are modules. A module contains 6 cells each of which is a nominal 1.2 V.

    Hope this helps.
     
    #14 dolj, Apr 15, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2020
  15. ContainsJuice

    ContainsJuice Junior Member

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    It definitely helps. Yah you are right, at least you knew what I meant. Anyway is there an easy way to do a charge/charge for an amateur prius owner. Do you think over time I would see a bigger difference since I took the battery out. I have to wait on some new modules
     
  16. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    The cheapest, but takes more time (I guess everybody has plenty of that at the moment), is to purchase an RC (remote control) car charger that can do NiMH (use the Advanced Search options (click the "More ..." button)) to find out what is currently available. There are 4-channel chargers that allow you to charge 4 modules at a time. One member who is a hobby battery rebuilder has 7 4-ch chargers so he can do the whole pack at once. (Less cost-effective for most) The RC hobby charger is also a better option for the matching I will talk about below.

    The only other option is to buy a grid charger like the Hybrid Automotive Prolong Charger/discharger (search this site for more info) which is more expensive but will do the job quicker. The added benefit is you can reuse the kit periodically to keep the battery in a good state for longer. The downside is if the modules you installed are not a good match you will be pulling the battery out and disassembling it again.
    Not sure what you are asking here.
    Make sure you recondition these as well to get an idea of their voltage and capacity by doing a 3 cycle discharge/charge regime followed by a final charge to full at a low current (350 mA) until the voltage tops out and remains stable for 4-6 hours. This can be done with an RC hobby charger. Perform this process on each of your existing modules, too.

    You will need to work out the capacity of each module so that you can better match the replacement using the hobby charger or by doing a load test after you have reconditioned it (as above). A simple load tester and process can be seen here

    If you haven't purchased any replacement modules @ericbecky or @jeff652 can help with matching and Eric is always happy to chat on the phone to help out folk here.

    Good luck and let us know how you get on.
     
    #16 dolj, Apr 15, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2020
  17. ContainsJuice

    ContainsJuice Junior Member

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    Thank you again for the reply. I will see what I can come up with. Its just a matter of time. I also wanted to mention that my original problem was the poa80 code but that was fixed with a module swap and then after I replaced the bus bars and few stripped modules the #2 module started going bad. Do you think it somehow shorted after that mishap with the metal?
     
  18. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    I couldn't say from this distance, and not being there to see what happened. But if you follow the above process, it will become obvious.
     
  19. ContainsJuice

    ContainsJuice Junior Member

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    Sounds good. Are there any load testers you recommend? I looked for a little bit and nothing concrete is coming up
     
  20. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    See the link in my post #16.
    I also meant to say, you have some reading to do to get to grips with what needs to be done.

    Be very methodical, Don't rush it, and keep records. You should come out on the other side.
     
    #20 dolj, Apr 15, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2020
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