P148F Help Coolant pump over revolution???

Not really much you can see from the outside with a magnetically driven pump, but replacing the water pump sounds plausible.

I preventatively replaced our 2010’s water pump at 175 k miles and noticed the impellor was not as free spinning as the replacement.

Nothing lasts forever and yours is probably due.

Takes some pics when you replace it and see if there is resistance in the impeller.

Good luck and keep us posted .

 

Has the car overheated?

I wouldn't drive it until you are sure it isn't overheating.

 

Just FYI, I just replaced my water pump this morning too after having to limp home and end up w/ P261B and P261C code.

Amazon has the cheapest AISIN at $220 but several people reported short life span in the review. Rockauto, however, has been my go to place for parts and they have more selections.

I ended up buying Beck-Arnley one for $236 shipped because it came with 3 yrs/50k miles warranty while AISIN is only 1 yr/12k miles.

Funny thing is that the B/A pump is also made by AISIN. It has AISIN stickers, scraped off badges up front just like AISIN pump. So for $16 you can get extra piece of mind for your purchase.

 

BTW, you can replace the pump from up top alone but way easier if you remove the plastic shield in the passenger side wheel well.

 

Hey Mikeykc,
i am curious how your "over revolution" finished out. My prius V 2012 also is throwing the same code. I also have intermittent high coolant temp. After you changed water pump, did you have any further problems? Thanks.

 

Yes. How did this play out?

I have these codes:
P0117 engine coolant temperature circuit low input.
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire detected
P148f engine coolant pump over Revolution

 

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Hi! First of all, I really want to thank everyone for putting their input here about this issue. This forum has been extremely helpful.

I noticed that when my 2012 Prius has sat for a while (if I haven’t driven it for a couple weeks or so) that when I turn it on, the engine will make a loud knocking noise. I finally realized that it could be a coolant issue and low and behold, my coolant was really low, so I filled it up. No issues since. However, a few weeks ago before the knocking happened, I noticed a high temp light came on and disappeared. Probably because I didn’t realize my coolant was so low.

Yesterday I plugged in a OBD2 scanner (BlueDriver) and saw that there’s a P148f code and B1503. Checked the oil and it’s clear, doesn’t look milky. Since refilling coolant, no knocking issues. Wasn’t sure about coolant pump replacement, but called around and got a quote from a hybrid shop in Orlando.

Is it necessary to replace the coolant pump and possibly the head gasket? I want to keep this car running but I want to make a wise decision when it comes to what’s necessary.

The car’s mileage is at 187,570 and I just replaced spark plugs last summer. Never had the EGR cleaned. I also noticed that when I accelerate, it feels like it’s stuck in 1st gear (if that makes sense). I don’t know if any of this is related to each other or makes any sense, but any input would be GREATLY appreciated.

 

To see where you're at with the head gasket leak-down test and boroscope inspection are good.

 

It might be a blown head gasket (a common issue). Got the same symptoms.
Check the coolant level all the time.

 

Lesk_The_Glut was here three years ago, but you can look at the three trouble codes listed in that post. There's more than one issue involved; two of the codes are kind of related, and one is an issue of its own.

The P0301 shows that Lesk had an engine misfire problem in cylinder 1. That's the issue of its own.

P148F means the water pump motor was spinning too fast, which means, for one reason or another, it wasn't pumping water. Either the impeller in the pump had broken, or there had been coolant lost and the pump was spinning in air.

Either way, if the water pump isn't pumping water, the engine is likely to overheat. The P0117 indicates an electrically low input from the engine temperature sensor circuit. Because the temperature sensor is a negative-temperature-coefficient thermistor (its resistance gets lower as the engine gets hotter), if you see a P0117 code, it either means the sensor wiring is shorted together, or the wiring is fine and the engine is very hot (like in the neighborhood of 140 ℃ or 284 ℉, ouch!).

Notice that if you have an OBD tool set up to show you engine coolant temperature, it might not look super hot when you have a P0117 showing. That's because the ECM assumes the sensor or wiring might be shorted, and it just substitutes an 80 ℃ reading instead of believing the signal. But if you ever have both a non-pumping water pump and a P0117, maybe you should consider that the signal from the temp sensor could be for real.



A blown head gasket won't directly cause a P148F or overheating (though coolant can leak out through a blown gasket, and if you never notice the coolant going away, you can eventually have those symptoms because the coolant is gone).

On the other hand, letting the engine overheat severely or repeatedly can give you a blown head gasket.