P3000-123, P3004-131,P3107, P3030, P3009 - where to start

I assume you have the car where you can work on it.

Check orange safety plug; check connectors to traction battery. retest.

Pull traction battery and inspect.

Bob Wilson

 

Well, let's start by not totally ignoring what the computers are telling you.

The battery ECU is telling you nine modules have zero volts, six are under three volts, and two are under seven volts. What are the possible reasons it would tell you that?

• It could be the truth. If your battery has nine zero-volt modules and six three-volt modules, it's time to buy a battery.
• The readings could be wrong because of broken wires in the voltage sense harness from the module terminals to the battery ECU. Have you looked up your codes on techinfo yet? Do any of those refer to 'voltage detective line snapped'? (My manuals aren't right here and I haven't got the codes memorized, sorry...)
• The readings could be wrong because the magic smoke has escaped from the battery ECU itself, at least the part of the circuitry that measures those voltages.

As that wiring harness and the battery ECU are both inside the battery case, we kind of know where you'll be looking next, and as soon as you do, you'll know which of those three problems you have. The one in the middle would be cheapest (assuming you find nothing else wrong) as you can get the replacement harnesses (actually a full restoration kit with all the internal wiring, plastics, etc.) for around $120 from the dealer if I recall correctly.

-Chap

 

I do not think it is possible to test for inverter failure until you have replaced the traction battery so that you can see what new DTC are logged. Given the DTC list in your OP, there is no particular reason to think that an inverter failure is the root cause. P3125 is usually logged if the inverter has failed.

P3004-131 usually means that the orange traction battery interlock switch is not correctly installed. So make sure that the switch is correctly installed. You need to pivot the lever 90 degrees, then slide the lever to lock it in place.

 

Roy from Canada here --

The battery has current leaks to ground P3009 and a at least one broken detective wire P3030. Multiple tries to start the car along with the battery leaks has drained the modules so their voltages are down and car will never start because of low voltage from the high voltage battery.

Remove the high voltage battery and replace it with a good used one that is complete with all cabling and the car will start and run. Charge up the low voltage battery with a charger (it is normally charged by the high voltage battery}.














t

 

Put the modules side-by-side and see if they have the same dimensions. If so, use 'em. But to do that, you'll need to do the following:

1. Individually get the modules up to 6.0-8.0 V, the same voltage
2. Balance charge in parallel, all 38 modules
   1. Raise the parallel voltage at least 0.1 to somewhere in the 7.2-8.0 V.
3. Test the wiring harness
4. Assemble battery
   1. Carefully check the metal housing to avoid shorts

Bob Wilson

 

The problem is that one or modules is leaking electrolyte, which means that voltage is being conducted from the module terminal to the sheet metal battery case. That causes P3009 which tells you there is a ground fault.

If you replace the 38 modules with all Toyota Camry Hybrid modules in good condition, then just clean the battery case using a vinegar/water solution which is a mild acidic solution, to neutralize the alkaline electrolyte. Then rinse off with water and dry thoroughly before reassembling the components on the case.

You should replace the orange traction battery busbars with new components if the copper busbars are corroded or the voltage sense wires are damaged (indicated by P3030).

 

There are two goals:

• Equal capacity modules - measured on the discharge cycle. Any running less than 2.5 Ahr should be recycled.
• Equal state of charge on assembly - accomplished by the final parallel charge.

By the time all modules have been surveyed, the first ones will have self-discharged to various lower voltages. This is normal but leaves the modules at different states of charge. The self-discharge starts fast and levels out. So the final, parallel charge brings all of the modules up to the same charge state or as close as can be achieved.

As for the setting, in parallel the 38 modules can take pretty much all the current available. Just let them settle down for 2-3 hours wired in parallel before starting the charge. When under charge, check the module temperatures and look for any that are running hotter than the others. These may have passed the initial screening only to be too weak for sustained operation.

Bob Wilson

 

Yipes! You meant Ahr, right? Or you've just got really high standards for battery modules?

... or I missed the news about that 53-fold capacity increase since the Gen 1 ....

-Chap

 

Your car, try it. If there is a problem, pull it and fix it. Your Techstream will let you see what happened.

Bob Wilson