P3020 returns

I am not sure if anyone else is reading this post but I had similar experience. It kept on telling me P3000, P3020. I switched pair from 9 to 10 and ran for few days. BAM, again, it showed P3020. Very odd so I experimented and used the old 10 Pair and put on 5 and latest 10 pair that was pulling the P3020 and put them on 3. I put the best pair on 10. After few days of driving, BAM P3020 comes out again.

Realized it was connection problem. Probably one of the line that connects to Pair 10 had bent and maybe torn. After replacing the line, no more P3020 code. YES, it could be the battery but NOT ALWAYS... like this incident. No batteries have been replaced ever since code P3020 started to appear but now NO more P3020. Good luck!

 

That's not going to make any difference You're good to 500 plus thousand you can hammer it all you want because there's no hammering on the Prius You're driving by wire your throttle is electronic You won't be hammering you just think you're hammering because your foot is down but you're good to go buddy and when that battery changes from green to blue to magenta and back to green again in 15 minutes say That's when you know your batteries starting to go south It should predominantly stay on mostly blue bars almost to the top minus two or three It's where it usually sits most of the time a good battery will go from that to green and back to blue minus 3 bars and then back to green you won't even see the magenta unless you're sitting in a parking lot like some woman running the air conditioning and talking on the phone until the magenta shows but running down the road you'll never see the magenta when your battery starts going bad it will flop from blue to green back to magenta real quickly one or two bars showing and then all of a sudden four bars of blue showing sitting like that for a little bit then pop to green and rinse and repeat battery starting to go south or connections are bad bus bars nuts etc.

 

Fixing Prius is like a game. You feel like you are winning then you lose and not sure how to come back. Many times it is testing and running. Fail, try again. If it runs, run until you get errors.

 

Unless you're in the mountains of Virginia with a failing battery I would think the car should do very well in the low country in Virginia like Virginia Beach and more or less the flat land parts even with a slightly failing battery or even a heavier failing battery to Carl still run The lights will come on and you'll have codes for the battery and voltage issues and what have you but the car will still run I was getting 38 mi to the gallon under those conditions wasn't driving a lot but still was driving when I needed to change the battery and all that nonsense went away that was 3 years ago now. Then the break actuator on a 2006 is past due probably but it's electronic so it'll fail when it fails you'll either replace it or you won't those are the two really big things on your model that are at issue The smaller things can be the display CM monitor easy fix for $150 60 bucks and one time You're not going to be doing these things over again inverter pump pretty common get the right one Don't do it again for a long time generally if you do these repairs right you will not be doing them again or you will be tired of the car if they come up again and it'll be time for you to be getting something newer whatever dictates all those things. Mine are all coming up near 400K and have had the normal run of the mill things nothing special and I'm running the same series of car you are and I don't really play many games.

 

This depends on where you took to get serviced. If you take it to bad dealers, they will make sure things break so you will have issues in the future. Every time I took my car to Toyota dealer, things break the same day. I only go to dealers when they have recalls but I should not take that bite next time.