P3190 code after leaving mechanic. No engine power, electrical power dying.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by preeus06, Apr 10, 2018.

  1. preeus06

    preeus06 Junior Member

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    Before today, I had no pressing issues with my car. Uneven tire wear in the front, some creaking and squeaking, and my car would go through oil relatively quickly (need to add more every month or less). I went in for a general inspection to see what needed to be done. Not surprisingly, I need new front shocks/struts, and I have an oil valve leak, along with some minor non-electrical recommended improvements for the near future.

    I picked my car up after the inspection. They did not do any work on it. I planned to bring my car in the next day for repairs. I got up to maybe 60 mph on the freeway, when my acceleration hesitated and then I could not accelerate at all. My display read "Problem," and the red triangle/! lit up. Luckily, I made it off of the freeway safely. My car came to a stop and would not budge. Most attempts didn't even let me get the car out of neutral. My OBD reader pulled up the error P3190, which I believe could mean any of these issues, according to what another user said on this forum:

    Air induction system
    Throttle body
    Fuel pressure
    Engine
    Mass Air flow meter

    Out of fuel (not possible, I have a near full tank of gas)
    Engine coolant temperature sensor
    Crankshaft position sensor
    Camshaft position sensor
    ECM


    I called the mechanic and told them about my problem, and they sent out some people to have a look. They saw a few more error codes than the one I was seeing (not sure which), and suggested I bring the car back into their shop for them to look at, since they still weren't sure what the problem was. They had great reviews on Yelp and seemed very reputable, so I was willing to give them the benefit of the doubt.

    After having my car on for a while waiting for the tow truck to arrive, my display screen flickered on and off, my radio turned on and off, all of the warning lights on the dashboard flickered, and finally rolling up my window once the truck arrived was extremely slow. This leads me to believe it may be an ECM issue. I don't understand why this would happen so suddenly, I have never had issues with any electrical components of the car other than the hybrid battery, and I had this repaired a year ago. What could have possibly gone wrong during the inspection to cause this? I am extremely reluctant to believe this is a coincidence, and I worry that they'll tell me this isn't their fault, but that they'll fix it for an additional $1500 that I can't afford right now. (On top of the $1400 I was planning to pay for my front struts and valve leak).

    Any and all insight and advice on this is greatly appreciated. I'll be hearing back from them tomorrow about what they found to be the problem. Thanks in advance.
     
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  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    welcome!

    how many miles on her?

    might be a bad combo meter, or low 12v.

    check the inverter reservoir for fluid movement while car is in ready.

    check all the fluid levels, including under the radiator cap, and the engine oil.

    i would ask what an 'oil valve leak' is specifically, and have them show you. any oil under the car after parking?
     
    #2 bisco, Apr 10, 2018
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2018
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  3. fotomoto

    fotomoto Senior Member

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    Check the 12v health first. They may have inadvertently left the car on in ACC mode while in the shop which is a common issue.
     
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  4. preeus06

    preeus06 Junior Member

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    About 220,000 miles. Trying to get all I can out of this car!

    They said the valve cover was leaking specifically. I have never noticed oil under my car after parking, so maybe it's more of a slow seeping? If that's the case, is it even worth it to repair that? They provided a photo of the area for me. Not sure if it's of any help to you, I've attached it. I'd previously taken my car to another mechanic last year to hopefully solve my issue of going through oil so quickly, and he couldn't find any leaks.
     

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  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    not a big deal. if it's under a hundred bucks, might be worth it. i would want the engine cleaned so i could be sure it wasn't still happening afterward. at 220k, i wouldn't bother though.

    you might want to start monitoring the oil level more closely, to see how many thousands of miles it takes to burn a quart, and look at the ground after parking overnight to make sure the leak isn't getting worse.
     
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  6. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Welcome! It seems unlikely to me that a low 12V battery would reveal itself after you got on the freeway. By then, the charge should be higher than when you first started the car if the system is working right. But I'd still go ahead and check it.

    The oil looks like it's from the oil fill cap since it's all over the top of the valve cover. Maybe just a bad seal there. I'd try that before messing with the valve cover gasket. As @bisco said, clean it up so you can monitor it. Old trick from my motorcycle days: after cleaning, spray some antiperspirant deodorant around the area to leave a white residue. Check daily or more often and you should see exactly where it's coming from.

    That said, the oil loss is most likely due to oil burning with that many miles on it.

    Did they say why you need new struts? If it's just that the boots are cracked or otherwise shot, I wouldn't worry about it. They'll still probably outlast the car. At 12 years and 220k miles, I personally would not throw any money at it except gas and oil.

    You said you had the battery repaired about a year ago. If that means someone threw in a new block or two and called it good, a year is about all I would expect. Probably less, actually. Techstream will tell you if the traction battery has a problem. If your or their OBDII reader isn't Prius fluent, it would not be likely to read those codes.

    Good luck with this.
     
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  7. preeus06

    preeus06 Junior Member

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    Hmm good advice. I thought it was burning oil, but the last mechanic couldn’t find any real disgnosis. I’ll have to keep in mind closely monitoring the oil. They quoted me at $400 to replace the valve cover, so I’ll hold off considering it’s not that crucial.

    As for the struts, one of my shocks is totally blown out. It hasn’t caused any issues for me driving, other than uneven tire wear over time. I was concerned that it was a safety issue, but it sounds like I may be wrong on that. If nothing poses a real safety issue at this point, then maybe I just need to get new tires and call it good.

    Yes i had the battery repaired. They said they replaced a few dead cells and reflowed the charge. There’s a 3 year warranty on it, so if that’s the problem then that’s good!
     
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  8. preeus06

    preeus06 Junior Member

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    Just talked on the phone with the mechanic, and they claim that the issue was the air flow sensor. Does this make any sense?

    They claim that they did a test drive with a replacement and it works great, but want to charge $386 for the replacement. I’m thinking of declining this, seeing if I can do the replacement myself, and either stick with this for a while or get a new car.
     
  9. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i think it is possible.
     
  10. preeus06

    preeus06 Junior Member

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    Alright so they were correct. I thought the price for replacing that was way too high. They let me drive my car home with their replacement air flow sensor in free of charge as long as I brought it back. I went and bought one myself and swapped it out and gave the part back to them, saving myself over $200 bucks! (y)
     
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  11. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    I would think you could replace the air flow sensor yourself, but it's not something I've ever had to mess with. You might want to do some googling.

    Edit to add:
    Strange. The post above (ie. #10) wasn't there when I made the comment in this post. It's always nice saving $200!
     
    #11 jerrymildred, Apr 11, 2018
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2018
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  12. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Sounds like the 12 volt battery is bad. A marginal battery will sometimes die after going to the dealer or a mechanic because they leave the doors open while they test it for afew hours.
    The lamp in the bottom of the door cannot be turned off.
    You have an obd reader do you have a volt meter? Easy to load test the 12.
    With car off measure the front jump points. Write that down. With car off turn on headlights on high beam
    And measure again. Write that down. Let it sit there with high beams on for 5 minutes with car off.
    Measure again. Write it down.
    Shut lights off and measure again in 10 minutes. That’s a pretty benign routine and a battery in good condition
    Will show 12.6 volts to begin and no change with high beams on for 5 mins.
    I bet yours tanks.

    With that many miles and it’s probably eating a lot of oil I wouldn’t put a dime into the suspension.
    You’ve been riding on the stock shocks for 12 years and they failed 9 years ago so it doesn’t seem to bother you. So what it’s leaking it’s been dead for years.

    Buy a gallon of cheap 40 weight oil At Walmart and every few days before you start the car check the oil.
    Keep adding oil till it’s at the full line. Keep the oil at the full line always. At 220000 miles one good low oil event and it’s new motor time.

    Did you ever run the engine so low on oil it threw the red caution mark on the dash or you saw that alarm going around corners?
     
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  13. preeus06

    preeus06 Junior Member

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    The issue was actually the MAF, but thanks for the rundown on how to check the 12v, I’ll make a note of that! That will come in handy eventually.

    I actually bought this car in 2013, but yeah the shocks have probably been done for a while. I’ve had uneven tire wear for as long as I can remember.

    Surprisingly, when I first got it I frequently ran on low oil with no problems, and probably did this for a year or two (and occasionally now, but much less often). And by low, I mean the oil was just at the tip of the dipstick when I’d go to check and refill every few months. It’s my very first car, so I was pretty careless to begin with. It’s been very good to be despite my abusive ways haha.
     
  14. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Fist thing it does when consistently running that low on oil is damage the oil scavenge ring on the bottom of the piston. Once that's worn out the engine will really start to eat oil. But its your first car and I have made the same mistakes myself. I ruined many a car just ask my folks lol.
     
  15. Lucifer

    Lucifer Senior Member

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    So they overfilled it with oil, the oil got into the motor and threw obd2codes as it died, they fixed their mistake, you bought a new maf filter, now get it to a toyota dealer, find out if the motor is cooked, keep any paperwork, the gen2 is sensitive to overfilling the oil, harsh, but another opinion.
     
  16. Kurtisbadical

    Kurtisbadical New Member

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    I had the exact thing same thing happen as I left Pep Boys. After an oil change, I turned my Prius on and shortly after, all the engine lights came on. I backed it out of its parking spot but the engine made some noise then stalled/stopped. After using the scan tool, we found it was engine code P3190. Long story short, during the oil change, the mechanic loosened the screws to the 90° pipe after the intake housing. This must've screwed up the amount of air coming into the engine and set off the code. Once these screws were tightened the car ran fine. We reset the codes and I've driven 20+ miles without the code coming back.

     
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  17. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    why would he do that?
     
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  18. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Must not have had anything else to do while waiting for the oil to matriculate out;).

    Why not loosen some screws and see what happens:oops:.
     
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