PCV Valve Replacement Questions

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Rebound, Aug 6, 2016.

  1. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    Old thread, but... having done this years ago and several Prius’ since, I think the NutzAboutBolts video is the wrong approach. Unless you absolutely need to replace the PCV, I think it’s better to wait until you remove the intake manifold/throttle body for cleaning. Then, PCV access is basically “free.” With the manifold off, the PCV is easily accessed.

    Reaching up underneath the car to get the PCV off is just brutal. It works, but it’s a lot of effort for such a small thing.
     
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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  3. NutzAboutBolts

    NutzAboutBolts Senior Member

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    well, now you know both methods :D but I agree, if you're going to clean the intake, the pcv is there for easy access. If you just want to replace it if its causing the issue, then going from the bottom is easier to replace, unless you want to remove the intake manifold...
     
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  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    I'm likely going to remove, clean reinstall my pcv valve in the next few days, in conjunction with a replumb of my oil catch can. Taking the intake manifold off too, give it a clean out.

    I'm thinking now for the pcv valve: a few turns of teflon tape.

    I've had it out before, about 2 years back, didn't apply any sealant, and the zone around and under is a little grubby.
     
    #44 Mendel Leisk, Jan 1, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2020
  5. Eddie25

    Eddie25 Member

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    The new PCV valve I have in my garage has something already applied, which I'm assuming is either a sealer or a thread lock, is that not standard?

    I'm doing this as well (intake/pcv/occ), hopefully this weekend.

    Do you guys do anything to the MAP? I'm going to fully remove the throttle body, pinching off the hoses and taking the MAP off, should I just leave it alone, or if it's oily do I clean it (understanding that it's sensitive)?
     
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  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    The stuff on the new PCV valve is probably the Repair Manual spec'd thread-lock (see attached). FWIW, when I removed the PCV valve on ours it wasn't too hard, so I'd likely just screw it in, as-is. I believe it's equiv to Loctite 271? Loctite 242 has also been mentioned, as effective and a little easier to remove, down the road.

    You're taking off the throttle body to facilitate taking off the intake manifold? And maybe clean the throttle body? For either of those two tasks, I'd recommend to just unbolt the throttle body and lift it off, but leave the coolant lines attached. There's enough play that you can move it out of the way, clean it if you like, and tie it to the inverter, just to make room for intake manifold removal.

    The MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor, just below and to the right of the throttle body: yeah I would remove and clean it. I sprayed it with MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor cleaner (CRC brand), and gently brushed with Q-tip.
     
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  7. Eddie25

    Eddie25 Member

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    I'll try that, I thought I would give myself more room for the OCC install on the bottom beam but I guess I probably won't need that much.
     
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  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    If you're screwing or bolting to the bottom beam, for a bracket, put some sort of rubber gasket or washer in between the bracket and the beam. The beam needs to flex, when you're using the front jacking point (it's the underside of that beam.

    I used through bolts when I connected to the lower beam, fished them through openings on the underside of the beam, but it was very awkward. If I was doing it again think I would just drill pilot holes, then use some self-tapping screws. Again, put some sort of compressible gasket in the "sandwich".

    Anyway, what I did was through bolt from below, then a rubber washer on top, then my bracket, then a steel washer, then a nut snugged down, and finally a second nut, torqued against the first, while restraining the first nut from turning. This gives you a bolted connection that will not come loose, but has some give.

    Another trick is rivnuts or rivstuds.

    Or even better: just some heavy-duty zip-ties wrapped around the beam, to secure a bracket? Avoid drilling in it.
     
  9. 2014

    2014 Member

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    Dealer parts guy said they don't stock PCVs since they never need replacing. Is there a way to test the valve? Did anyone have one that had failed?
     
  10. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    They have them in Sarasota...and on the east coast...

     
  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    There's a fair bit of bs and cryptic description in the attachment. There is a description how to test it.

    Just do what you have to do to get to it, remove the valve with a 22 mm socket, give it a good shot of Carb Cleaner. I cleaned the threads, applied a little Permatex 243 thread lock, and torqued to 15 ft/lb.

    If you want to replace it's under $10, shouldn't be too hard to get.

    =================================================
    PCV valve p/n: 12204-37010
    Connector hose between pcv valve and intake manifold:
    HOSE, VENTILATION p/n: 12261-37060
    =================================================
     

    Attached Files:

    #52 Mendel Leisk, Mar 14, 2020
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2020
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  12. 2014

    2014 Member

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    Thanks for that. Low cost to replace, but the test looks easy to do. I suppose if I take it out I may as well put a new one in.
     
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  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    Maybe should mention, Permatex 243 is not spec'd threadlock, just easily available. I think the object is mainly to prevent it leaking, and a thread lock will do that. The 243 is a relatively easy-to-remove threadlock, and description says it's still effective if threads are a bit oily. It's just what I used recently.

    Maybe the new ones come with the kosher threadlock on the threads?

    Also, you could skip the thread lock, it'll likely just get a bit grubby directly below.

    The 243 does gum up the threads a bit.
     
  14. wheezyglider

    wheezyglider Active Member

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    I bought my PCV valves from a dealer parts store, and they were Aisin brand parts (just like the ones I removed). They came with dried green goop already on the threads. So no additional threadlocker necessary on those.
     
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