Philadelphia - Strut Check/Replacement Recommendations?

You should maybe contact the shop foreman/manager and ask him about your findings and how the report does not match up with the receipts of the newer parts you've installed. Get an explanation

 

Yeah or go anywhere but pep boys they I mean I'd go to Firestone before I go to pep boys but there should be some reliable shops with good ratings in your area in Philadelphia It's been a long time since I've been there but there should definitely be some shops with high marks and good to high labor rates and all of that You just have to look on Yelp or one of those stupid things now that we have at our disposal see what people are doing in Philly I don't know if you're in South Philly East Philadelphia or what so car culture is pretty strong there for small Japanese cars also there are some modders from my other list there that extensively mod Toyotas and hachi roku's

 

Unless you have a caliper sticking not backing off or slide pins acting up I would think that much brake wear on a Prius would be nearly unheard of than that amount of time unless you're driving 80 mph and flooring the brakes as a driving methodology I would highly doubt it but places like pep boys always have questionable at least service writers and managers you'd be better off at the Toyota dealer almost that's a big almost You know anyone is a newer break places I can't think of the name of all of them We have one that opened up in our shopping center here they seem to do good work in a fairly reasonable

 

Well I have a story about Pepboys incompetence, I bought a car that was broken down and in Pepboys service department. I bought the car unseen for $800, owner said car won't start and pepboys didn't know how to fix it. Went there and saw there was a gas can inside the car, thinking it might have ran out of gas. But the gas can was full (2 gallon) and nobody put gas in the car. Had it towed home, as the driver was about to take the car off (tilted on an incline, it started up). I was surprised and then next day found out the car was just out of gas. Pepboys didn't even bother putting gas in the car to test it. Left the gas can in the car.

 

And on the struts you should be able to jack up the car at the rocker panel and grab the wheel and push in and out on the bottom or part of the wheel If that upper strut mount is messed up you'll hear it clunk clunk clunk clunk or something along those lines I didn't realize the safety inspection in Philadelphia struts could cause you to fail that I know rusted out strut towers will cause you to fail it but usually failed struts are just kind of collapsed and don't rebound and whatnot like they're supposed to they're not usually coming loose off the car or doing lots of clunking they can but that's not usually how they fail they're usually just hard as a rock and you're losing fillings and whatnot.

 

But what is wrong with the struts I mean is there some kind of clunking going on a bunch of noise You can't look at a strut and just tell it's bad so what is it that they're seeing they should have called you out car side immediately when this is going on and say oh see The way I can tell that is by such and such and so and so not you're just failed the struts bad what's mad about it It's not a springy as it used to be? Something is weird with this for sure now unless the strut tower is rusted out or something where the strut mounts to that's a different story which is common in the Northeast or used to be

 

12/32” is correct conversion, of 9.5 (mm) Toyota spec for new rear pads. For the rear pads to lose almost 5 mm (6/32*25.4) with 6 months normal use, I’d suspect incorrect orientation of the caliper piston.

And then, the wear would be uneven, beveled. More info in rear brake drag link in my signature. On a phone turn it landscape to see signature.

 

This is for the Gen 3 You have rear disc brakes All you need to do is make sure the slide pins are clean greased and you can move the caliper across the slide pins with your pinky pulling on the caliper and then your pinky pushing the caliper back across If it's not that smooth do it again change the slide pins whatever it has to have That's what keeps your pads wearing evenly when that caliper can't just butter smooth slide across those pins You have uneven pad wear I almost never have uneven pad wear before I put the brakes back together whenever I have them apart for whatever reason those slide pins have to move with my pinky finger and I like my pistons to be able to be squeezed down by my fingers practically I should not have to get out the 20-in channel lock pliers slip joint pliers you know to squeeze down the caliper You should be able to take your two thumbs crack zerk. And push that down with your two thumbs and then close dessert If you got getting c clamps out and all that you might as well bust the caliper open clean the little bit of rust out fit a new rubber etc It should squeeze down by hand. At least it does here at my place.