PIP High Mileage Driving Techniques?

That's a great plan once I get the car home, but I have a 600 mile drive to get it there. I'd like to make it in about 10 hours, rather than 136 (43 x 14 minutes @60mph plus 42 x 3hr charges).

I'm looking for tips that take advantage of the much larger battery to modify well established high mileage techniques to sqeeze a little bit more efficiency from a full tank than I might get from a standard Prius.

BTW, just picked it up yesterday. Wow, what a car. I was very pleasantly surprised by its power in EV mode.

Thanks to all who have replied so far. Good stuff. Keep it coming. After getting some work done on it, I'll be making that long drive home on Monday.

 

I'll be posting next week in the Gen III Prius Audio & Electronics forum (with pictures), but since you asked, here's a preview.




I'm upgrading the sound experience incrementally, tackling the challenges in order of those that have the greatest effect to the least, while progressing roughly from measures that have the biggest bang for the buck to the least. At the point I get the sound I want comensurate with the money I've put in, I'm done, so the project will probably not make it to Step 5:

1. The listening room. Far and away the worst thing about the listening experience is noise. No point plowing a lot of money into electronics to battle the noise without first doing everything reasonably possible to get rid of it. The largest part of the upgrade budget will be devoted to professional installation of resonance damping panels, acoustical isolation/insulation foam, and mass loaded vinyl sheeting. It is getting installed now.
2. Speakers. If sound treatment alone does not improve the sound adequately (and I suspect it will not), I'll next be swapping out the factory speakers for reasonably inexpensive component speakers in the front (Alpine SPR-60C - $170), and coaxial speakers in the rear door (Alpine SPR-60 -$120). My guess is this is all I need, and I'll quit here.
3. Sound Processor. Whatever aftermarket speakers we choose to put in these cars, they cannot match what the head unit was designed to power, so the next step would be a processor to adjust equalization, phase problems, and time delay. Several products seem well reviewed, but should the speaker swap-out alone not do it for me, I will be installing a JBL MS-8. It does a lot for $565
4. Amplification. I seriously doubt that I will have any use for power in excess of the 18w per channel put out by the MS-8, but if I do, it will be a 5 channel Class D amp - probably the Alpine PDX-V9. 4 x 100w plus 1 x 500w. Why the 500w 5th channel? Just in case i need...
5. Bass. I listen to music, and have no desire to annoy cars next to me at stoplights, so the mention of "subwoofer" makes me cringe. Still, there are limitations to what a 6 1/2" woofer can cleanly output at any power level. If I'm not happy at this point, I'm very comfortable working with MDF and fiberglass, and will fabricate a very shallow (~ 4" - the sub only needs .35 cu ft) enclosure in the cargo area behind one of the wheel wells to house an Alpine SWR-T10.