PLEASE HELP

idk anything about electron automotive, nor do i recall ever reading about them here.

i have to assume it is a poorly rebuilt battery, and you are mistaken about others success wit replacing modules or buying rebuilt packs.
it is very hit or miss (mostly miss) and takes a lot of expertise to get it right.

i would consider the new pack for $1,600. from 'newpriusbatteries.com' see member @2k1Toaster

 

If electron guys sent you a bad battery the first time, it does not guarantee the 2nd battery they sent you is good. Unless you have the tools to read the codes and diagnose, you'll be at the mercy of professional mechanics to help you figure out what is wrong. If it end up to be the battery again, then it's safe to say it's electron automotives fault.....even though you claim it's not their fault for taking your money and giving you a bad product

 

What is the result you keep getting?

You attached one photo of a Toyota dealer printout showing a P3024.

Do you mean you keep getting P3024 after every fix attempt?

Or do the codes vary?

What are the codes?

 

Have you EVER changed the 12 V battery in all of this time ?
Or tested it and inspected and tightened it's main cable connections ??

How about the cables and connections going to the HV battery ??

And finally, have you considered that it REALLY is not worth all the time and trouble and $$$ that you are putting into it ???

 

Just skimmed your post we have seen hundreds of times on this site.

1—Battery “rebuilders” are the biggest scam going. There lying there lazy they will drive you crazy.

2- The car is throwing BATTERY HYBRID CODES a normal car code reader will not decode them you need a hybrid code capable code reader.

There’s a few we use. All require Toyota’s dealer software called TECHSTREAM it’s a bug riddled copy.


Use search links tab up top and search

Techstream. or. OBD

 

Ideally, you have a way of reading the "INF" or "Detail Codes" that go with that, because there are several different ones (261, 521, 606, 607) that can go with P0A92, and for some of them, the possible causes can include the inverter or the battery current sensor, not necessarily the transaxle. It would be a drag to fix the wrong thing.

By the way, that is a zero, not an O, in P0A92. That may seem like a small thing, but you do get better search results when you spell it right. (Even worse, the search results when you spell it wrong may be biased toward info from people who don't know what they're doing.)

Little rule of thumb, DTCs have to start with P, C, B, or U, have 0, 1, 2, or 3 next, and the rest can be digits or A-F.

A DTC really never tells you what you need; it tells you about something very specific a computer observed (the repair manual says what that is exactly), and then the repair manual gives steps for what to test and how, to figure out why that code came up and what would fix it.

 

Stop and take a breath. Right now you are frustrated and throwing parts at a problem without understanding what's wrong.
If YOU want to fix this, then YOU need to slow down and do some testing. Test, don't guess.

What codes set the first time? How did you get those codes? Did it set the same codes the second and third time? What exactly did you install when you put in the refurbished battery? (was it just the battery modules or was it a complete assembly with all the wiring and the ecu? ) Did you, clean the orange wiring harness? Did you replace the bus bar strips and nuts? Did you torque the bus bar nuts to spec with a torque wrench? Did you remove the orange connector from the battery ecu (next to the modules) and inspect the terminals for corrosion and heat damage? Have you had the 12V battery charged and tested?

If your "OBD2" won't read codes, then whatever it is doesn't have the capability you need to diagnose a Prius. When there is a fault with the hybrid system, the red triangle comes on, and the other lights are usually on because those systems are saying "hey there's a problem with the hybrid system- go look there." One option is to get an app like Dr Prius or Hybrid Assistant. Either of these work with SOME OBD2 bluetooth adapters (Hybrid battery diagnostic and repair tool for Toyota and Lexus) to display information and codes from the HV battery ecu. Another option is to purchase a "mini VCI cable" with techstream (a pirated copy of Toyota's diagnostic software) from amazon or ebay and install it on an old windows laptop or onto a virtual machine. Can be tricky to do but it gives you full access to all codes and data on the car.

Now the "battery block becomes weak" code sounds as if it was written with the assumption that ANY fault with the high voltage battery would be fixed by replacing the entire assembly. If you only replaced the modules then the problem part would still be there. Don't know with out testing.You should look at the data to see what is happening. The battery is made up of 28 modules (each 7.2V module is a sealed assembly of 6 x 1.2V Ni-mh cells) arranged in blocks (each block is 2 modules). Block 1 on a Gen2 is furthest from the battery ecu while block 14 is next to it. The weak block code sets when the voltage on a block is different (above 0.3V?) from the others for too long. A "bad" block has voltage that can be higher or lower than the rest. You need to monitor the block voltages on your car, while it's sitting at "ready", while accelerating (hard), and while slowing down (regen). On a good battery those voltages are usually within 0.1 to 0.2V under most all conditions.

OK an update- still want to get a scantool that will pull the INF codes per ChapmanF's recommendation such as Dr Prius or techstream.