Possible ABS Actuator Failure

So in the picture I'm looking out of your multifunction display where the batteries in the middle you're on the energy screen those are magenta bars on your battery three of them look like they're showing Is this correct there's magenta/ cyan which is blue/ and green . Is the vehicle bouncing fairly quickly between magenta the red cyan the blue and green fairly quickly like while you're looking at the display or it'll happen within three or four minutes going straight down a road it'll be magenta dying then it'll turn blue get up to about three or four lines then all of a sudden bam it's green looking full and then a few seconds to a minute later maybe 80 seconds it'll be back to magenta again? These are dead giveaways that the hybrid battery is fubar I'm assuming the hybrid battery you had put in in 2016 was a rebuilt used something along those lines? And if so generally speaking it's gone about a year or so over what a rebuilt battery generally does so nothing's really out of the ordinary here. But usually you'll have some kind of code and the other thing to check under the hood while you're here is the AM2 fuse that's the fuse for your inverter pump that usually turns the turtle or the car red in the upper left corner of the MFD which you said it's red and it shows red in your picture generally when that happens the first one of the first things I check is the inverter pump AM fuse and the pump itself If the car's on that inverter pump should be trying to pump usually You can put your hand on it and feel it if you can't hear it

 

The Prius Repair Manual. More Info ...

The Blink (a/k/a Flash) Codes – How to PriusChat Wiki page also has some of the codes you have listed and other info that might be of interest.

 

The how-to page will already have told you that ABS 42 and VSC 45 both just mean to look for the ((!)) codes. So, on the ECB ((!)) light:

44 is C1378, a problem communicating with the brake backup power supply capacitor box in the back of the car, next to the 12 volt battery.

52 is C1252, indicating the system ran the pump motor (or tried to run the pump motor) for longer than it ought to take to bring the system pressure up.

57 is C1256, indicating the system pressure was too low. (So, it's never very surprising to see C1252 and C1256 together.)

Each of those codes appears with troubleshooting instructions in the manual, four pages, eight pages, and two pages, respectively).

TPMS 21 is C2121 and 23 is C2123, telling you the car isn't picking up the signals from two of the tire transmitters (the ones registered as ID1 and ID3). There are six pages of troubleshooting information (it's the same for both codes, other than which registered ID it's talking about).

 

Where can I Find Blink Codes in the repair manual | PriusChat

 

1252 1256 where the same codes I had. Checked for sensors/ leaks / oil/ brake fluid… everything else that could cause abs problems that’s minor. Ultimately I found a honest mechanic and he changed The ABS CONTROL MODULE AND ABS ACCUMULATOR ! my Prius v 2012 is now perfectly running. No lights, no hard brakes, nothing. You are wasting your time if you don’t get the accumulator and control module because trust me I looked for every single possible way to avoid it. Got both to be installed flr $1800 altogether. I was blessed with such a honest mechanic. Good luck.

 

Is that with the 2012 Prius v mentioned in your profile? I see that you've made this identical post on several threads, some Gen 2 and some Gen 3.

There are some differences between the generations: if you meant a Gen 3, it sounds like your mechanic replaced two assemblies under the hood. In Gen 2, the accumulator is integrated with the actuator. In Gen 3, they're separate assemblies and you don't always need to replace both; sometimes you can diagnose which one is at fault.

Also, there are other possible causes of the codes. If the pump can't run for an electrical reason, for example, there will be too-long-pump-run and low-pressure codes.

So a person wouldn't be wasting time, to go through the recommended diagnostic procedure before going straight to the big-bucks replacement. If the replacement is what's needed, the diagnostic procedure will tell you that. If you want to save time and just bet that way, and you win the bet, that rocks. But it'll suck for the guy who jumps right to the big-bucks fix and it still doesn't work, and then finds out the 5¢ wiring fix takes care of it.

NB when I say "go through the diagnostic procedure", I just mean the steps in the manual for pinning down what's causing the problem. I don't mean the kind of further wishful thinking people sometimes go through before finally getting it fixed.