Possible to replace halogen headlights with LED?

Like most things, it's doable, but at what cost and effort? Just the factory LED assemblies are expensive. I've heard as much as $750 each new. I've seen them offered on eBay at $350 each used, with broken or repaired mounting tabs and without lights or ballast. I understand there is a difference in wiring harnesses, but that's a easy fix. Based on cost alone, I'd pass. Might be best to upgrade you factory bulbs to better quality and light output and live with what you have. I've always been fascinated with quality factory HID and now LED systems. I vowed to get the factory systems up front and not worry about trying to retrofit later. The Prius 5 (ATP) and the Prius Plug In Advance come with a nice list of options, at a cost. I like those options and I can justify the cost.

 

After 1 year (JDM ZVW30 project).... | Page 11 | PriusChat

Halogen to Led headlamps project | PriusChat

 

Why not go with HIDs rather than halogens?

 

Several of us have done the H9 halogen bulb upgrade for more light. Using a quality German made Osram H9, there is a noticeable improvement over the Sylvania Silverstar zXe halogen bulbs that were in the Prius before doing the upgrade.

In short, more light. Cheaper bulbs than the so called premium H11 halogen bulbs. No worries about ballasts, etc.

SCH-I535

 

It's only a 10w difference between the 55w H11 and 65w H9 bulbs, so negligible difference in heat that the space in the headlight housing can dissipate adequately.

Several threads discuss this mod on this site, and more if Google H11 H9 conversion. The minor modifications to the H9 bulb base and socket are easily done, especially if you have a Dremel type rotary tool with the appropriate grinding tips.

I've converted both of our cars over to the H9 bulbs.

SCH-I535

 

It could work, as long as the connectors are truly compatible between the different arrangements of the tabs inside the various connectors.

However, you will still need to reduce one tab on the H9 bulb base where it mounts into the back of the headlight housing. They don't make adapters for that.

SCH-I535

 

It's a tight space there and many ballasts have slots for attaching permanently with screws. You can screw through the plastic if you desire.

 

I noticed that H9 dosen't have a silver tip like H11. I think the silver tip is there for a reason.

 

The silver tip is a glare cap because the bulb is spec'ed for use in reflector headlamps with no built-in bulb shield. In our projectors it's ok.

This upgrade produces a tremendous increase in light output, so make sure that your headlamps have not been aimed upwards if you are making this change.

The extra tab on the base of the bulb can be easily trimmed with just a small pair of dikes.

 

There are no guarantees when you start to go outside the bounds of how the system was engineered, but logically, the difference of 10w is small and is highly unlikely to cause any trouble.

 

The video didn't show the removal of a small portion of the largest of the 3 metal tabs at the base of the bulb. You need to remove about 1/8th inch from the left side of the tab.

Also, in the video, the guy clearly holds the glass portion of the bulbs with his fingers prior to removing the small tab in the connector. Don't touch the bulbs! The oils from your skin will create a hot spot on the glass that will cause the bulb to fail early. If you accidentally touch the bulbs, clean them with a soft cloth moistened with rubbing alcohol to get the oils off the bulb before installing them.