Pre-conditioning - Heat

You can always cancel the scheduled charge by either pushing the Charge Now icon when you shut down the car or by plugging in the charging cable into the port, then unplugging and immediately plugging back in. This cancels the scheduled charge and the charge should start immediately. Your schedule will still remain in effect, so at the next scheduled charging time if the charging cable is attached to the car and the car needs to be charged it will charge it.

EDIT: Whoops @Tideland Prius beat me for the same answer.

 

No need to do that for the Prius. Level 2 charging in the Prius only needs about 13-14A.

 

Yeah, but the 30a isn’t 240, a 50a would be…. Am I missing something? Thought level 2 were 240?

 

For 240V L2, PP still only draws 16A max, so your 30A circuit is good enough. However, if you are going through the trouble of installing a new 240v outlet to be used for L2 EVSE, then a 50A circuit and 40A L2 EVSE will be future proof for your future BEV. But who knows, the next generation of chargers may be wireless or require a higher than 50A circuit.

 

Are you able to post a picture of the outlet?

 

It’s a regular 30a RV outlet.
similar to this

 

Do you know if that circuit was ever 240V (e.g., an old dryer or pool pump circuit)? I'm just wondering if the wiring is there already and you can just change the outlet and the breaker. Unless running new wiring is particularly tricky it shouldn't cost more than a couple hundred bucks to get a 50A 240V outlet. I think I paid $250 for mine.

 

Why do you think the 30a rv outlet is 120 volts? Unless it's a really - really - really - old A/C outlet or Canada has a different standard. all US 30 amp outlets are 220 / 240 volt, at least all the outlets I know about. Look at some of the 32 amp. juice box EVSEs Home & Residential EV Car Charging Stations | Enel X There are 16 amp versions at amazon that will work on a 30 Amp 220 / 240 volt circuit. A pic of something similar doesn't really help us understand clearly.

Concerning using PreConditioning for heating the cabin in my 2017 plus, if it adds any heat or cools in the summer that is great. I've never had issues with PreConditioning fogging up the cabin. If I think using PreConditioning might fog up the cabin. I'll usually crack all 4 windows a hair.

If I want cabin heat in the winter, I use a space heater in there and it feels like summer time when I get in the car. The heat doesn't last too long, and I can feel every single (it seems) draft coming straight through the firewall. That is driving with the car heater off.

 

This is a new outlet I had installed, only about 5-6 feet of wiring, since it’s behind the panel. I could actually just install another outlet right beside it.

 

Sounds pretty easy. Get a 50A 240V breaker for your panel, run some 8/3 wire to a box and pop in a NEMA 14-50 outlet. If you're not comfortable working with electricity you could do everything except connecting it to your panel and let an electrician do that part.