Prius 2010 Oil Change Interval Revised? Not yet... (closed)

Yep! Just like the say on the Amsoil web site:

"• Replace AMSOIL Ea oil filter at the time of oil change up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first (other brands at standard OEM* intervals)."

 

the Amsoil site recommends a Mann filter with changes at 7500 miles
Purolator and Wix also make a filter, which I've heard are good for ten
Toyota has a filter of unknown origin


you see the thing is, the better the filtration of the filter, the sooner it needs changing, as it will "fill up" and switch to bypass, where it is no longer filtering

a good oil suspends contaminants, a good filter then filters them out

 

Mann does not have an oil filter for the 2010 Prius, yet.

Amsoil recommends the WIX 57064.

How do I know, I asked.

 

---> Part Detail

---> Part Applications

 

OK. The Corolla 1.8l engine is cross referenced in the part detail for the Prius 2010 oil filter.

So that means you could use a Mann ML1009?

 

Based on past oil analyses (my personal), you'd be perfectly safe going with 20k OCI's on a Wix filter with Amsoil.

 

yes, or ...


AC-Delco PF1768
Carquest 84064
Fram CH10358
GM 19185485
Hastings LF640
Luber-Finer P980
Napa 7064
Purolator L16311
Security CF6311
Toyota 04152-37010
Toyota 04152-YZZA6
Warner WP980
Wix 57064

 

So which is rated for the highest miles? WIX?

 

Exactly:

Replace AMSOIL Ea oil filter at the time of oil change up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first (other brands at standard OEM* intervals).

That means if you have the Amsoil oil & filter, both should be replaced at 25K or 1 year, BUT if you have the Amsoil oil and the OEM filter, you should replace the OEM filter every 5K, which is the official recommendation from Toyota. Now, what is the point of replacing the oil every 25K if you still have to take your Prius to the dealer to replace the filter every 5K and still top it off with the Amsoil oil every time you replace the OEM filter? I bet we would better off with just paying the standard Toyota OCI every 5K…

 

i think your answer is in post #506

respectfully, i don't think it's that outrageous to have a filter or two on hand ... and to pop one out and replace it every ten to twenty thousand miles, and then pour six ounces of oil into your crankcase

i'm sure if you can't do it, you have a friend or neighbor who'd do it in trade for whatever it is you do well

or start a Prius group in your neighborhood from members here on the board, and get together every six months for an oil change and filter change mod party

it's not really that big of a deal

 

It would not work for me. Last time I tried to play mechanical technician I almost ruined my car's engine. As simple as it appears to be, I would rather give it to the dealer. If he screws up, fine, I'm covered. If I screw up... there goes my Prius and thousands of $$$.

triumph1, thanks for letting me know that you can run the Amsoil up to 20K in a wix filter with no problems, but my point is:

The whole idea of using Amsoil is to increase the OCI substantially, from the Toyota’s recommended 5K to 20K or more. If you do that, you likely void Toyota's warrant in case of engine failure (rare event but I know at least one person who had this happening). However, Amsoil does come with warrant, but their warrant will also be void if you don't change the filter according to Toyota’s recommendation, which is 5K.

So, unless Amsoil comes up with a filter for the new Prius, you've got to change the filter every 5K otherwise you are very likely uncovered by any warranties…

 

if the oil is better and has a higher rating, why can't it be used?

I intend to use a regular Toyota Oil filter.

REading this whole thread will educate quite a bit.... if you see my earlier posts, I was quite bewildered as I"ve never used synthetics and until many of the oil guru's provided links for me to study and bounce from I didn't appreciate just how far we have come with oils.

Oil rarely runs out of its time because pf the filter failing, it has more to do with the additives expiring and so the "toxins" if you will, that are suspended in the oil, will start to go back to the metals in the engine if ran too long and also develop sludge.

So if you don't use your oil past the time of expiration of its additives, your filter has little to do.

Using a better synthetic is always a good move, regardless of the filter used.

I personally still have not adjusted to the idea of a superfine filter for long durations and I'm concerned it may plug up and then offer "no" filtration and or bust the membrane.
And yes, everyone wants you to buy thier filter, including Toyota, but that doesn't mean a whole lot.

I intend to start with at least 15K.. may even 20K, test my oil and go from there.

 

If there a way to do that without losing 1/2 a pint of so in the messy process?

 

i'm no moderator, so pardon me ...

but this has been covered a couple of times in the last 500 hundred posts

if you are going to take your car to the dealer every 5k, and pay for dealer service, then you're best served by dropping it off, picking it up, and letting them do their thing

if you don't trust them to used the specced 0W20, then you should bring it, or only pay them for the 5W30 they're actually using
- by the way, there's nothing wrong with that 5W30, but it doesn't cost the $65 they're charging you


fwiw, i help out a number of friends with their vehicles, some i just fill up with whatever dino oil is on sale at Pep Boys and a Pep Boys Proline Filter, and BAM!! ... it's about $9.99 total every 3000 to 5000 miles

other friends get the Amsoil SSO 0W30 and an Amsoil EAO or Wix filter about once a year and off they go, at a cost of about $60-65

taster's choice baby :thumb:

 

I've had dozens of oil analyses conducted over the years, and have never seen a problem with running a quality oil filter up to 20k on a properly functioning, maintained engine. I am an Amsoil dealer, but I do use other oils sometimes when there is a good sale, or mainly for my other vehicles that don't get driven as much. I almost always get an oil analysis when I change it. I commute 100 miles daily, 6 days a week. I had an '01 Mercedes with a cartridge filter, and ran it to 20k with a Wix and Amsoil, no problems. In fact, the analysis came back with less wear metals than the previous run with an OEM Mercedes fleece filter. Many of my customers share their oil analyses with me. The few '10 Prius customers I've had went from 10-13k on an OEM filter, with no problems. The oil makes all the difference in the world- Pennzoil Platinum, Amsoil, Maxima, Motul, and even Mobil 1 would probably do O.K. In my experience, in the crap load of cars and motorcycles I've owned, many with cartridge type filters, Amsoil and Maxima are the stoutest when it comes to Extended oil change intervals.

The first analysis I had on my Prius, I ran Amsoil SSO for 15k from 2k to 17k. It for some reason had 3% fuel dilution, and yet the oil still had a TBN of 4.1. You can't beat that. The fuel dilution has since subsided. The second analysis with Pennzoil Platinum came back with .05% fuel dilution, and a TBN of 3.3 after 10k. The run with Pennzoil Platinum was using a Pure one filter.

You guys have very low miles on a new Prius, and assuming you keep up with the air filter, I doubt your filter is going to have a lot to filter out using good synthetic oil.......The ICE isn't running as much as a normal car.

http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-...ng/60559-10-000-mile-oil-change-interval.html

http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-prius-technical-discussion/64193-atf-change.html

First oil change-



Blackstone Labs.

Miles on unit:17k

Miles on oil:15k

Make-up oil: .5 quarts.


You've run this oil for about 88% of this young engine's life, and that's the reason that we are still finding high
iron, copper, and silicon. We normally expect wear-in to be past by the time you get to about 10,000 miles, but when
you run long oil changes from the start, the process takes longer. You'll get there eventually, though you could speed
the process along by changing the oil at 7,500 miles next time. Note fuel at 3.0%. This is more than we like to see but
hopefully it's from rings seating. The TBN read 4.1 showing some active additive left. Check back.

ALUMINUM 5
CHROMIUM 0
IRON 18
COPPER 9
LEAD 1
TIN 11
MOLYBDENUM 1
MANGANESE 1
NICKEL 1
SILVER 0
TITANIUM 0
POTASSIUM 3
BORON 5
SILICON 58
SODIUM 6
CALCIUM 3206
MAGNESIUM 11
PHOSPHORUS 594
ZINC 711
BARIUM 1

cSt Viscosity @ 100°C 8.85
SUS Viscosity @ 210°F 55.3

Flashpoint in °F 315
Fuel % 3.0
Antifreeze % 0
Insolubles 0.3
TBN 4.1

 

Don't forget the one I have: STP #S10358 (stamped, Made in Korea).

Calling the 'Tech Hotline' I'm told to 'follow the OEM recommendation' regarding filter life.

 

I do my own changes. I will let the dealership make my first change at their expense after they prove to me they are putting in the recommended fully synthetic 0W20. After that, they will never see me again for an oil change.

 

there are ways to make it less messy

in making it less messy, you can also recapture and reintroduce rather than lose the oil

for example, on my kawasaki, the oil filter cap is drilled and tapped for a 10mm "drain plug"

i can remove this plug and drain the "filter oil" before removing the cover and then the canister filter, insert a new filter, replace the cover, and pour that drained oil right back into the crankcase

i would have to crawl under a 2010 to see ascertain the best way to accomplish this

but you really should have a qt. of oil handy for top offs, and this is one of those instances ... after a filter replacement

 

I know someone is gonna ask again, so I thought I would put this one in bold!..

 

I understand you're skeptical, and you have every right to worry about your warranty. Can't fault you for that.

I've just been doing this for far too long, and on far more expensive and powerful vehicles to know there will be no problem.

All you have to do is check your oil, make sure it stays to the correct level, and you'll be fine. Hell, if you lived near me, I'd do it for you, it's so simple.

You run more of a risk going to the dealer, than doing longer oil change intervals with a quality oil filter and oil- You have no idea what brand of 55 gallon drum garbage they're putting in, whether they even change the filter, much less whether they'll overfill it or not.


I'd rather bring the quality stuff to a private mechanic and let them do it.