[Prius 2012] Windshield forward water switch

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by leviu, Nov 8, 2019.

  1. leviu

    leviu New Member

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    The forward windshield sprinkler doesn't work. Its not the pump - we tried replacing it and the issue persisted. We checked the old pump with 12 volts and it works. For now we switched the aft sprinkler switch to actuate the forward sprinkler.
    It seems like the issue is the the sprinkler switch (i.e. the right handle by the wheel). One tech measured something by the pump (switch input?) and said its "always positive". No idea what that means as the pump is not working all the time.

    I had 2 techs (non-toyota) take a look at this issue and they both are saying the same thing.

    My question is: is it worth taking apart under the wheel to see if there is some obvious issue or is it s closed assembly and can only be replaced?

    Other random thing that might be related: after we played with the pump connections the media system (not original) all of the sudden started to turn on where it wasn't turning on for a year (or was but very intermittently on engine startup). The auto unlock on proximity also started working, but i think it stopped again maybe... Seems like there is some electrical problems.
     
    #1 leviu, Nov 8, 2019
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2019
  2. Attila Fekete

    Attila Fekete Junior Member

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    I think the always positive means that the 12V is measured on the pump - which is normal as Toyota switch the groubd most cases.
    As you have issues with other devices too, I would start with checking the ground points and if cabels ruined by animals.
     
  3. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Welcome to Prius Chat (y).

    The lines from the pump to the nozzles aren’t plugged?

    The nozzles themselves aren’t either?

    Good luck and keep us posted (y).
     
  4. leviu

    leviu New Member

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    Gound on the pump line? Or everywhere?
    Animals??? How is that? Like rats? We dont have rats or mice in this area so much.

    Thanks! Everything is plugged in... Or was anyway Not sure what you are asking.

    Please note, I am no car tech, just an IT guy with basic electrical knowledge and decent RTFM skills.
     
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    test the 12 volt health, and connections, especially negative to body ground
     
  6. Attila Fekete

    Attila Fekete Junior Member

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    The best would be to check how is the cabling in the service manual and the ground points are highlighted there. I don’t know how it works in the US, in Europe you log in to Tech-doc and for a few Euros you get an hour access.
    Basically check the negative side of the pump as bisco wrote.
    My case it was a mart, but just an idea, not necesary your case.
     
  7. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    o/p is in israel, may be similar. here, it's $20. for two days
     
  8. leviu

    leviu New Member

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    So I figured I will go and measure everything I can before buying manual access...
    TL;DR: problem solved itself after fiddling with connectors.

    Thank you to everyone for their replies!

    Here is some data and pictures that I have collected - maybe it will benefit some googler.
    I also tested the ground points above the water tank (not sure they are related) and those were good as well (very low resistance).
    At one point (not sure what caused it) the voltage changed...

    Shorter front switch:
    Left 14.56v to group. Blue wire. Now its 11.3v...
    Right 14.2v to ground. Black wire. Now its 11.04v...

    Longer back switch:
    Left 14.5v to ground. Purple wire. Now 11.3v...
    Right 13.9v to ground. Blue wire. Now 10.7v...

    Under wheel:
    11.58v from brown on larger connector (exposed in my case) wire to ground
    Larger connector ID 125(or3)5(or6)9 (hard to see white on white)
    Smaller connector ID 12356

    I was doing this alone this time so had to actuate the front/back switches with rope ^_^ so I am not posting what I measured doing that as I am not sure that data is accurate/reliable. (to add to all of this this was at night - so pressing the "light button" on the tester, holding a phone for light and trying to use the measuring pins is not that easy).

    Ground by watertank.jpg Pump electrical connectors.jpg Under steeting wheel - 2 connectors.jpg Under steeting wheel connector pins.jpg Under steeting wheel small connector.jpg

    Oh and the media system and auto-lock when you move away from the car don't work anymore ^_^. These are not that important that I will go and spend another 3 hours prodding at the car with a tester and a screwdriver.

    Last note, if you just turn your wheel to the left you can unscrew the car's front bumper just enough to reach the water pumps - no need to lift the car.
     
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