Prius Battery Replacement Kit (GenII/GenIII) with NEW custom cells

Thank you for sharing your experience .

And we’ll said.

 

Well the time has come for me to replace the hybrid battery. I've checked everything I can think of, and all cells (except one) are between 7.5 and 7.9. The one is a 6.4. Seems like it's the best option, and at $67/month, will be just fine to extend the life of the ride another two years.

 

You're just trying to do a whack a.mule approach. It isn't just replacing the modules. You might do that, getting some temporal reprieve. But you'd sure get back to doing the same thing some day again. You got to discharge/recharge the new modules, and balance em up with the existing modules in your car.

 

I think you misunderstood:

$67 x 24 months = $1600.00 USD (the cost of the kit)

 

What about trying the prolong discharge/charge system to 'refresh' the battery?

 

A good idea.. much better if you want to keep it longer than 6 months. I did the whack a mole method.. and i've been good for 6 months but my mpg dropped 10 percent as well.. so theres that as well. You'll see slightly better mpg with a new battery.

 

It won’t do any good, as one module has a bad cell. There is no coming back from that. The only option in this case, is to replace the bad module first, then you can charge and balance the battery.

The poster does not want to do this and is happy to spend $67/m to replace with new modules.

Of course it likely will go another 6-8 years after that, so they are “free” years.

 

Ok..for some reason I didn't catch the fact that the OP has bad cell(s).

 

I think I understood him. I'm just concerned about him not doing the discharge/recharge thingy. Appears he just wants to replace the bad module, and go. That's a typical plug and play scenario.

 

This thread is about an alternative to new OEM packs. If the user was going to do module replacement they either would have stated that clearly or posted in a module replacement thread.

 

Static voltages don't tell you much except on modules where one cell has completely reversed/failed. You absolutely need to load test every module, then check their capacity and match them if you want to have a battery pack that will not require constant tinkering. Not sure why people don't spend the extra time to do it right but I guess if you have some free time on your hands why not try the whack a mole approach and see if you get lucky. As said above the HA Prolong setup will help keep well functioning pack going longer but once those cells have reversed/failed the only way to fix it is to replace the offending module completely.

 

I guess I thought once one of the cells drops below a certain range, it would seem to be the death knell for the pack. I'll probably look around the site this weekend for some other alternatives. The car has over 260k on it, and does seem to be displaying the signed of a bad battery pack. I got the RTOD Wednesday, and tried to scan and reset. The lights go away for about 3 minutes, then they all come back. So I used a procedure to test each battery cell. It seemed like the effort to find and replace one cell would last a few months, until the next one went bad. I had thought about going the Prolong route, and I may end up doing that prior to dropping the coin on the replacement pack, because I guess I'll need that anyway.

Yes, I plan to keep this car to 1,000,000,000 or longer. lol.

 

You won't need the prolong if you change the battery. The new battery should last 8-10 years. The prolong approach takes about a week of downtime per each module that fails, and you usually don't know unless you load test each. You'll be down like 600 already for the prolong.. might as well just pay 1k more and get the new battery pack, then sell your older decent cells on ebay for 300-400 or so for all of them.

 

You really ubderstood exactly what I have being saying all along in my comments here to the OP, and others.

What I still think the OP is trying to do is to whack a mule. Those aren't sustainable. One needs to spend the time necessary, to discharge/recharge and balance the new modules with the potential used one he wants to get off eBay.

 

How is @2k1Toaster the OP of this thread trying to play whack a mule by developing a new cell alternative to Toyota’s packs?

 

Ooooops! I shouldn't have said OP maybe. I wanted to say, he's comments, were in line, with what I had in mind.
Terribly sorry, if you got me wrong.

 

It’s whack a mole. It’s an American arcade game. You whack one mole another pops up.

 

[offtopic]I had this in a slotmachine where there was a double-or-nothing button. I could time it with >90% accuracy, so I could actually 'beat' the machine. But it would change frequency after doubling up three times, and I would continue, thinking I could still time it even though it was faster now.

I couldn't.

So I only played this with a friend: I'd time the doubling button, he would hit the 'cash-out' button after three times before I could loose all our profit on the fourth 'double-or-nothing' try. We never lost on that machine if we played together. And we were happy with a win of 2$, would take our profit and not play for another week.
[/offtopic]