Prius Battery Replacement Kit (GenII/GenIII) with NEW custom cells

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by 2k1Toaster, Oct 13, 2017.

  1. gablekevin

    gablekevin Junior Member

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    I just ordered my new Prius battery today. Hopefully it shows up soon since I'm in California.
     
  2. dpower

    dpower Member

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    I’m certain you’ll like it, it’s one of the projects that just works.
    I’ll see how it holds up in the next ten years or so.
    I’ve never had a more trouble free car. Put gas in it, change the fluids and a belt and a new 12v battery every 5-6 years or so and it just keeps on running.
    I was surprised to see a few posts back that their cars were using oil. I’ve used Mobil 1 after I had put 3000 miles on it and now have 179,000+ and it doesn’t use any more oil that it did when new. About 1/2 quart between 10,000 mile changes. I’ve had the oil analysis done a few times and this seems to be a good point on my car fuel dilution hits about 2.5% I could go longer but that’s more than I drive in a year at this point. I have switched to the high milage, extended change blend for the increase in seal lubricants, and sludge detergents. But the oil looks dam good on the dip stick. I changed the valve cover seals as it had a small leak and everything looked clean and smooth.
     
    #682 dpower, May 16, 2019
    Last edited: May 16, 2019
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  3. Prodigyplace

    Prodigyplace Senior Member

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    Gen 3 can have issues with oil getting through the pcv valve into the throttle body causing oil usage. It appears that an oil catch can resolves that issue.
    The pcv circuit is different for Gen 4.
     
  4. dpower

    dpower Member

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    Interesting, similar to the gen two problems when they help at the oil change places would dump in 4 qts of oil. Made my Prius very unhappy.
    I’d expect better from Toyota engineers.
    From the link it appears that the performance parts industry has a ready solution. I wonder why the didn’t do a recall on that, i would think it would lose them their near zero emissions rating.
     
  5. Prodigyplace

    Prodigyplace Senior Member

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    A long thread here, among others.

    Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock! | PriusChat
     
  6. gablekevin

    gablekevin Junior Member

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    UPDATE: Installed my new battery kit on my 2005 Prius. It was pretty painless and the car is running so great now. I've gained at least 2 mpg on my normal trip to San Diego too. Acceleration seems way crisper now.
     
  7. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Out of curiosity, were able to use an inch-pound torque wrench for tightening the hv battery nuts?

    Or did you just kinda-guess at what felt about right.
     
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  8. gablekevin

    gablekevin Junior Member

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    I just guessed on tightening those and just went as tight as I could with a nut driver with a good grip.
     
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  9. YAWP

    YAWP Junior Member

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    I got the kit and decided to post about my experiences. Some Background: 2007 Gen 2 Prius, 122K miles, got the RTOD, the brake warning light, the VSC light, and the check engine light all at once. The fan in back was on all the time. The battery was really quick to charge and discharge (which explained why the fan was on all the time). Came to Prius Chat to find out more, and found out about this kit, and two years later after it has launched, it seems to be doing pretty well.

    I purchased a toaster kit about two weeks back. Ordered on a Wednesday, got it the following Tuesday. $1600, with free shipping, just as originally posted here (I worried that the tariffs had driven the price up). Procrastinated for 2 of the three days I took off to deal with it. I'm a shade tree mechanic who has been in the trades for a coupla decades, so I wasn't afraid of electricity, and I took my time with this install (total, about 13 hours). I have never worked on my HV battery before, so this was a real treat. I now feel I know my no-longer-misunderstood friend, the HV battery. I have since corrected many people that the battery is 201.6 VDC, not 300, as many people seem to think.

    I tested all the new modules when they arrived. They're stamped as being 14.4 volts each, but my Fluke showed them as 15.5, 15.6VDC each, consistent with what @ericbecky posted from his Torque Pro app. I tested my old modules when I took them out, and Module 6 was at 6.4VDC, confirming my diagnosis that the battery was bad.

    I quote peecee above because I feel I had a similar experience and agree with a lot of what he said, especially the part about the clip-on sensors. Some differences: I knew I needed a torque wrench and bought one (you only need one that goes up to 10 Nm (Newton-meters)). There were more than enough new bolts in my pack to fill every hole when bolting down the new modules (I'm guess 2K1 changed that). I checked everything for electricity with my fluke at various points, and wore some rubber insulating gloves (that weren't electrically rated, but good enough).

    I think it would be good to say in the instructions that the auxiliary battery cap is red and the safety plug is orange. It would help find them easier (especially the safety plug). The drawing of the safety plug and its location in the car is not the best, especially because the plug is obscured by the battery casing. Luckily, Youtube is my friend.

    When I had finished, I turned on the car and got tons of warning lights, but no RTOD. The car's ICE didn't turn on, and then I noticed that the power button light was orange. Obviously, the car was not actually on! Depressed the brake again and hit the power button again and the car "Ready"ed, and the rest of the warning lights disappeared. The power button light turned green, and all was right with the world. No need to clear any codes with Techstream or anything else.

    Hint: As you take bolts off, put them in a Ziploc baggy with the step number you are on, and a brief description of the step. Only started to do this halfway through, but glad I started because some of the drawings are not super great about where all the bolts are. It can be tough looking at your bucket of bolts and deciding what goes where.

    When I moved the safety disconnect high voltage wires when attaching the connections with 7-2, I had trouble, like several other users here. The wires were not cold and bent well enough, but I was not satisfied with how much the insulated wire were rubbing the case and exposed metal. Wrapped up the wires in electrical tape where they were coming in contact with the casing to give some extra protection (it was about 8 passes).

    My thanks to the OP and his great kit! Only a little more work and a total neophyte could do the install. I feel very accomplished after completing this journey of discovery.
     
    Robert Holt, R-P, kenoarto and 3 others like this.
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