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Prius C / Aqua: General Questions

Discussion in 'Prius c Main Forum' started by pdforever, Jan 28, 2019.

  1. pdforever

    pdforever Member

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    2015 Aqua
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    Hey all,

    So, I've had a 2015 Aqua for nearly a month now. I've given it its first fill-up last week (I calculated that it gave me 21 km/l (49 mpg) for the first tank), and I'm done with most of the trips to the mechanic until April (barring any horrible, terrible accidents, God forbid). I've also had it raised slightly (yes, I know, but with how high the speed-breakers are, and how often the bottom was scraping when I drove over them, I had to).

    I'm now concentrating on driving it, getting used to its foibles, and keeping it from getting its first scratch on our notoriously dangerous roads (though possibly not as dangerous as either of our neighbours'). And there are a bunch of questions I've had, seeing as I've come from a manual car, which had no traction control, no "power" options, and certainly no hybrid system.
    1. B-Mode. I know how it works, and I know when to use it. My problem is, can I just shift between "D" and "B" while moving? I remember reading somewhere that you shouldn't switch gears on an automatic (and especially not on a CVT) while the car is moving, but then, "B" and "D" are both forward gears, so I guess it shouldn't damage anything? I don't know.
    2. There's a lot of horrible traffic I have to deal with, right? So, what'll happen is, is that the car will switch to EV mode. The next car will move up, and then I have to accelerate to keep up with it, otherwise the guy in the other lane will stick his nose in without even a "by-your-leave". When I do that, the ICE kicks in. And then I'll brake (because the guy ahead has stopped again), and the ICE will turn off, and the car goes back to EV mode. And this'll happen quite a bit at certain points during the commute (not throughout, but there are bottlenecks). Anyway, is that bad, this constant switching between EV and ICE? I'm assuming Toyota must have taken this into account, because surely this sort of traffic is everywhere, but I do not know, should I just accelerate more gently if I'm already in EV, and just use my horn to scare people out of my lane (don't laugh, it does work).
    3. A few people on the interwebs seem to think it's better to park a Prius with the HVB with a nearly full-charge on it. Others seem to think it's better to drain it. I... don't really do either. When I've turned off the Expressway, and I'm in the residential area, I tend to go slowly, in EV mode (it's about 1.5 km to my house, and downhill), and I can usually make it without the ICE turning back on, and I'll have 3-4 bars of battery (let's call it 1/3rd full).
    4. Is it better to have the heater on all of the time, or to turn on the windshield defogger from time to time (which will turn on the A/C)? I don't like heaters and things, so I'd rather not have the heater on, but I'll keep it on if that's a better way of keeping the windshield from fogging up.
     
  2. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Change between B and D fearlessly at any forward speed (or while stopped.) No gears ever engage or disengage. The only change you are making is the computer's behavior, and all it is doing is changing electrical flows and set-points for engine RPM.

    This is the fundamental action that it was painstakingly designed to do, over and over and over again, and with far less wear than you'd get by stopping and starting the engine of just about any other kind of car.

    Let it start and stop the engine whenever it wants. While not absolutely perfect, the computer has a very refined program to start the engine when truly needed and cut it off when it isn't, and it can switch back and forth frequently and rapidly for many years and kms without undue wear.

    I don't think it's worth paying any attention to it. Again, the computer has a very competent battery management system, and millions of owners have benefitted from it without needing to intervene or manage anything on their own.

    You might eventually get good enough to do it better than the computer on a specific trip, but you aren't likely to be able to repeat it perfectly every time over the life of the car. Just let the computer do it and enjoy life.

    The battery in the Aqua / Prius c is cooled by air taken from the passenger cabin. It is known that cooler batteries last longer overall. So if you keep the cabin temperature low, you're likely to enjoy longer battery lifetime. Keeping the windshield clear is just about condensation control. If you select front defog, the computer will apply mild heat and periodically also apply the air conditioner without calling attention to itself, because the combined effect is dehumidification without much temperature fluctuation.
     
    pdforever and joelg1988 like this.
  3. pdforever

    pdforever Member

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    Oh dude, thanks so much! Y'know, the big things are always in manuals and forums, but little things always trip me up.

    It'll take time, I think. The car's still new, so I'm still overthinking things.
     
  4. pdforever

    pdforever Member

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    Double post, I know, but I had a couple of additional questions:
    1. I just filled up the car, with two bars left on the gauge. Last time around, I filled it up with one bar remaining, and I got 35 litres (7.7 gallons US). Now, the tank is supposed to be 36 litres (7.9 gallons US), so that got me worried, so this time around, I filled up early. The tank filled up in 26 litres (5.7 gallons US). Is the fuel gauge logarithmic? Did I really have 10 litres of fuel in the tank today?
    2. With the other cars, we'll only put in coolant occasionally, we'll usually fill up the radiator with water. Does the Prius C / Aqua have to have coolant? Will something go wrong if I put in water?
     
  5. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Have you calibrated the fuel system? There is a procedure in the owners' manual. It should improve the accuracy of your fuel remaining gauge and the computed consumption economy.

    I can't tell you if the fuel remaining gauge is linear or fits any other pattern, to be honest I'm still getting used to it myself.

    I'm not aware of a firm requirement for glycol coolant apart from the need to protect from freezing and shifting the boiling point. The former is more important than the latter- if it freezes, it will expand and potentially crack the metal castings. Be aware that the inverter is also liquid-cooled, and it may have different requirements than the engine block. That's another one I'm still learning myself.

    If you do use water, I would strongly suggest distilled water. The mineral content of ordinary water will accumulate in passages that are very difficult to clean later.

    You can get an inexpensive tester to verify the freeze point of your coolant and track how it changes when diluted with water during top-ups.
     
    Bill Lohman likes this.
  6. ztanos

    ztanos All-around Geek!

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    During the drive phase, the MTE meter and the fuel gauge can be all over the place, in my experience. The only time I've found it remotely accurate is when it finally says 0. At this point you have ~1.5 gallons of fuel left in the tank.