prius one rear door speakers wired?

I'm in the same boat as you. Ok, well, I didn't get the sun roof and cruise control. I took my car to a couple different audio shops, and they wanted to charge me anywhere from 150-210 just for installation, so I decided to take it apart and research it myself. It's taken a lot of digging, but I've determined that it is NOT wired already. It is compatible, though. I found this diagram which shows where to connect the new wires if you decide to install them yourself.

From what I gather from other posts, it looks like we may need brackets to mount them to the door. We should use 6.5" speakers, but the door is cut out to more like 8". No one at Crutchfield or anywhere else seems to have the precise info on this, but I imagine they are out there somewhere.

I'm going to do this in about 10 days when I have some help. Has anyone out there done this/have some advice?!?!

 

I did replace my speakers and I guess I can share some info with you. The original speakers are 6.5" and they mounted on the plastic adapters. I was in contact with these guys at car-speaker-adapters.com and they said that their model SAK036 will fit the door openings. However, it was couple months ago and I though since I am going to replace my original speakers anyway, I came up with idea that I will cut my original speakers out of the adapter and try to fit my new speakers instead. I though if it won't work out then I will go with SAK036 adapters. My plan worked out, so I didn't order any adapters, but since you don't have any adapters in your rear doors, I guess SAK036 will be the best bet for you. Hope it will help!

 

Thanks! I ordered adapters, hoping that they are the same as in the regular Prius! I haven't actually taken the front door panel off, but apparently the front and rear cutouts are different shapes. I can't confirm this. Anyway, I don't think I'm going to mess with the front speakers just quite yet, but I do want to at least have something in the back.

The other issue is the wiring. I bought a wire harness today for $13 at an auto part store, then came home and realized that it is $3 on Amazon. So I made the order online and will return the other after the install. Fingers crossed: I've got everything I need, now I'm just waiting for a free day and help to give it a shot.

I may decide to change the front speakers later. I may go with your idea of cutting out the original speaker. But the adapter isn't too expensive, so I may go that route, too.

 

oh, I see now that you were asking about the wiring harness for the sunroof. not sure on that one.

 

No, the front and the rear speakers have absolutely the same cutouts and adapters. They will be the round ones with 3 rivets. The distance between rivets on two sides, if I am not mistaken, will be around 6.5" and on the third side around 7".

 

Still no progress on this. After taking all the door panels off and getting ready to do this install, we realized that there is no way to get the speaker wire into the car--there is a wiring harness in the way for all the door panel instruments. The after market wiring harness I bought for the stereo is not the right one, either. So I ordered the "reverse male" one needed, which showed up with 4 wires instead of 5. It is missing the stereo dimmer wire, so I'm considering doing the install without it.

It seems like Toyota went out of their way to make this as incompatible as possible. Even the way the front speakers are wired with harnesses and secured with pop rivets seems a bit silly to me!

 

Pop rivets are just cheaper for them than screws. I love the car and everything but it is obviously made to a cost (probably most cars are). Just squeezing the review mirror cowl makes this pretty obvious. Anything a normal driver wouldn't normally touch or look at is as cheep as possible.

A little pet peeve of mine is the green back light on the AC control screen. It just looks really cheap and kind of ugly. Fortunately it is easy to ignore.

 

So...I finally got the rear speakers wired up, but they didn't improve the sound AT ALL! It turns out the head unit doesn't supply enough power to there rear speakers, so the front ones (factory) sound much better. This irritates me. I've asked around and gotten three different answers from three different people, ranging from: A. install a small Arc Audio amp next to the passenger seat, B. put an Alpine Power Pack behind the head unit, or C. do nothing, because everything is risky.

I'm really frustrated by how big of a pain this has all been. So far, I'm out $200 and have professionally installed speakers that I can't even hear. An amp or Power Pack will run me from $250-400 installed because there isn't really enough room for a cheaper amp.

I wonder, though--if I downgraded the speakers to ones that required less power, might that work? I don't need an incredible system or anything. The sound from the front is decent, I just want to be a bit fuller/less directional.

 

Are the ohm ratings for your new rears the same as the fronts? Could it be a case of mis-matched speakers?

Just wondering because I got the impression that the head unit on the One is the same as the Two, and the Two has rear speakers. And since the head unit had connections for the rear speakers, and there is some power going to them, maybe your expectations were a little high?

Go find a Two and listen to it. Is it worse than a Two?

 

Any idea what the ohm ratings for the stock speakers are? The new ones are 4 ohms

 

The OEM ones are 4 ohms 27 watts. Which one did you put in your rear doors? I have my OEM HU and a set of Polk Audio with Alpine Power Pack which I've got from best buy for $55. Power pack installation is very easy. Almost plug and play once you have all connectors. Since I didn't want to cut Toyota's wires I've got connectors of ebay for less than $16. I also have got crimp butt connectors from radioshack for 2 or 3 dollars. Once you have all these, it will take 30-40 minutes to wire it up, and then just plug into Toyota's connectors.
However, I went ahead with Alpine Power Pack because I didn't want to replace my HU (I have PC-4), in your case I guess it will be better to find some aftermarket HU which will improve your sound quality without expensive amplifier.
There is a good discussion about aftermarket stereo installation in this thread: Prius C Aftermarket Stereo | PriusChat

 

sorry to get of topic... can you share a picture of your sunroof and your personal impression of the install quality etc.? thanks!

 

Can you describe the improvement in sound you're getting now that you've done this upgrade? I also want to keep my factory HU (nav system in P3) but want to swap out with new speakers (probably Polk) and added power if able. Any pictures or advice? thanks!

 

Actually I have something to compare with. Originally I had my factory speakers, and let's be honest they were far from been even good. Just plain standard sound. Then I've got my Polk Audio and the sound became better but I couldn't get a good lows. Then I found out about Alpine's power pack (for a very good price, one of the local's BestBuy I believe was trying to get read of some of their inventory and I've got mine for $55 with taxes) and I decided to give it a try. The change in sound was significant. Let me point this out straight, to have a sub was never my intention and this power pack does not give you this ability. But my Polks do the great job with highs and lows and whatever is in between. With my factory unit 30 was a minimum to listen the music if I liked the song, now with my Polks and Alpine's Power Pack I can listen my favorite songs at 30 with rolled down windows and still get a great sound. So the bottom line is I like everything I've done so far. I did all installation on my own, so I didn't spend on whole project more than $250 if I remember correctly.
As for the description, the installation was quite easy. I've got most of the adapters on ebay, so I didn't cut any single Toyota's wires. At that time I could find good door adapters for the speakers, so I cut original paper speakers out of the plastic adapters and screw my Polks on top of these adapters, so far no issues whatsoever. Each speaker's adapter seats on 3 rivets, so you need to drill them out in order to take the speaker off the door. Be careful with this step since you don't want the drilling bit to pop out of your door. I also put everything back on rivets. Got all tools from Home Depot for 15 or 16 dollars. I put my power pack underneath the dash on the passenger's side. Let me know if there anything else I can help you with. I don't have the pictures but I can try to take them if you really need some specifics.

 

Wow. you literally did exactly what I've been contemplating... I've been torn between trying to use my high-end linear power amps which sound great and are gorgeous, but are also honestly too big for the vehicle and eat up too much usable room in the trunk space. So the more realistic option I've been thinking of is something like what you've done... a decent in-dash or underseat amp that can accept speaker level output from the factory headunit and run off some existing power source without needing a new cable through the firewall etc.

If you get the time and don't mind, I'd love to know the step-by-step details so I can model my install after your own experience. In particular, I'd love to hear some details about:

* does the Alpine unit accept speaker-level input directly or does it need some sort of line-level-converter placed in between the speaker-level output of the HU?
* does the factory HU output "flat" frequency response that can be used as-is or did you have to bridge any together (ie, does it have separate pre-filtered output for the tweeter versus main door mid/bass driver or a single output with the resisters in the door?)
*Does the Alpine switch on/off automatically with the audio signal from the HU? I'd hate to drain the battery with a unit that gets stuck "on" or have to fight with one that won't automatically turn on with the music signal.
*How did you supply power to the Alpine amp? Does it tie in with the power feeding the HU headunit?
*Brilliant idea about just cutting out the paper drivers and using the plastic ring as the mounting plate for the Polk speakers to get the right depth.
* Any problem with water/moisture in the doors on the back of the polk? No window up/down problems?
* Can you tell me more about the adapters you found on ebay to avoid having to cut wiring? Does that include not having to cut the wiring harness cables behind the head unit as well as wires in the doors near the speakers? Any particular item you'd recommend?

As far as the amp and speaker combination... what do you think of the "bundle" here? (the "frequently bought together" after the amp description)

Amazon.com: Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier: Car Electronics

Thanks so much for your input!

-Dave

 

Dave, I can answer your questions later today. I am just about to leave but I will give you details tonight.

 

Thanks!

 

Dave in this thread you will find a lot of info with regards to termination and wiring: Prius C Aftermarket Stereo | Page 5 | PriusChat

 

When you buy speakers there are a LOT of specs to read otherthen just the diameter. One of the first you should read is "sensitivity". The units are "dB/W at 1 meter". You'd want something with a number at least a high as the reating for the front speakers. A difference of 3dB/W is noticeable and 6dB is just to much. One problemis you don't know the specifications of the front factory speakers. Maybe a good reason to put in four new speakers, not just the two in the rear

All that said I am pretty sure the reason you might want rear speakers is so the sound is better for the rear seat passengers. Not for improving the sound in the front.