Prius Prime accident, front and back

Sorry to see the damages. I think it is the best time to get a 2021 as Toyota is having great rebates, but dealer might not offer much discount as they keep saying chip shortage. Anyway checkout the latest "official price paid" sticky thread under the Main Forum

 

Anytime you get rear ended, you will have to check the trunk area where the spare tires sits (but this is for the non prime versions) and check the weld/joint areas to see if there was any buckle from impact. I guess in case of Primes pull up any covers you can in the trunk area to expose area for inspection. I'm sure if you bring to body shop they will check these areas if you tell them you got rear ended.

My Gen 3 got totaled just from getting rear ended from a Camry who didn't stop. He was going around 25mph.

 

If it cracked the windshield that's a sign that the body got deformed at least back to the base of the windshield.

 

Not necessarily. It looks like the hood got pushed into the windshield.

 

And the Front Radar will have to be checked and possibly recalibrate.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Will be interesting to see what the bottom line will be. A 10 mph bump.

 

If so, it came back forward a long way. I zoomed in on the pix and that hood isn't even close to the windshield. But anything's possible.

What I find remarkable is how little visible damage there is to the rear end. Who knows what's under the plastic, though?

I hope you'll keep us informed, @dasb. Glad you're OK.

 

Thanks for the update.

Ralph Nader wrote a book “Unsafe at any Speed”. For a follow up: “Unrepairable at any Speed”?

 

Check the KBB prices, but also check to see what Primes with your trim level and condition are selling for in your area. The insurance company will probably offer you the amount for a Plus. If you have a Premium, tell them what it is and show them that it's worth more.

 

I'm not shocked by that, considering that when I cracked a blinker light assembly, the part was $735. I think a headlight assembly and the carbon fiber hatch assembly are each in the $3-4K range. Aluminum hood can't be cheap. Etc.

Run, don't walk, to yourautoadvocate.com (YAA) and use their tools and advice to get prices on what your car was worth, and any car you're considering buying. Part of their advice will be to go on CarMax, Carvana, vroom, and other internet car dealer websites and pretend you're selling them the car before the accident. Enter the VIN, miles, condition, condition, etc and get actual offers to buy the car if it were undamaged. If you pay them a little, you also get to find the Black Book value (car dealers use that for valuing trade ins, then of course they try stealing cars for less).

Buying the replacement right now is horrific for most cars, but actually the Prius Prime seems to be an exception. There are still incentives/rebates of up to $5500 depending upon your location. It is pretty much the biggest incentive on any normally-priced car. What amount the rebate offer is in CA, or the exact date it expires, I'd suggest you find out immediately.

ABSOLUTELY DO NOT wait for any holiday sale. You can get "sale" prices simply by shopping around A LOT, and negotiating well. People didn't exactly get bargains via recent Memorial Day sales, because there is more demand than supply, so sales are hype to get you into a dealership, not an actual opportunity to save. If you find a half-decent deal in today's market, on a car you want, grab it.

The guys on YAA are an awesome father/son team. The dad is a former car salesman, sales manager, and general manager of car dealerships, including one owned by Penske. The son deals with creating software tools to help consumers.


One thing I'd be very interested to find out, is whether and at what price they offer to let you buy the salvage title to the car. Personally, I have a place to store a parts car in rural NH, but if you're in SFO, probably you don't? Just keeping it and maintaining the battery for future use, or for resale to anyone who kills their battery, seems like a win. Sometimes the batteries pop up at reasonable prices (under $2K) at junkyards, so maybe my idea isn't as great as it sounds. But I'd rather have a spare battery that was from my own car, than a random junkyard one.

 

Prime headlight list price is around $1500 apiece IIRC. I’m interested in such (preposterous) gems.

 

I guess I was recalling the price of a pair, or the price has dropped since 2017, because the MSRP on Toyota.com is $1638.86 per side for the headlamp, plus $280.26 per side for its control module (attached and therefore likely also broken), and miscellaneous cheap brackets.

Figuring out the price of the liftback assembly is difficult. Main structure around $3600, glass $700+$300, many more bits and pieces.

 

Too, there seem to be “list” and “street” prices. Insurance companies go with list, or street? Maybe whichever benefits the most?

I’m trying to restrain myself; recall when replacement sealed beam headlights were $20 apiece. And being glass you never had UV hazing.

 

dasb, read your insurance policy fine print and talk with your agent or the company. Find out what their published policy is for the value after a total loss. I think it will be the cost to replace a car of like age and condition, but what's in print in you policy is what governs. Next follow the advice above to prove to the insurance adjuster that your car was in tip top condition and far better than average for its age and mileage. Good luck.

 

Also, keep in mind that the Prius no longer qualifies for California's rebates, so factor that into your decision. I recently picked up a 2021 Prime LE for $21,000 before tax and license. $16,500 after Federal rebate. I traded my 2018 Prime LE to a dealer for $20,000 with over 30,000 miles on it. The resale value of the Prime is high. Don't let your insurance rip you off.

 

Quick note, when my prime 2017 advanced got totalled, I received almost $7k less than the original MSRP. But in the end due to Toyota rebate and FED incentive, I came out with zero difference. What insurance did, is to locate the cheapest 2nd hand of your year in your area. Make sure to call that dealer to confirm.

 

And make sure it's in the same condition as yours. One that was never washed, full of door dings, paint chips, and stains on the upholstery is not the same as one that was washed and waxed and garaged and kept clean, although the insurance company will try to pass them off as the same.