Prius won't go into Ready mode

You would need to somehow retrieve the DTC codes on the car, that'll give you a better idea of what's wrong with the car. From your description, there's nothing that should keep the car from going into D after it starts up.

The steering issue is a serious issue that's covered by a recall, but that alone shouldn't keep the car from going into D once it starts up.

There could be lots of things that go wrong with a car after it sits for 2 years....all fluids would to be changed, brakes checked, a whole list of things to check.

 

all codes are usually deleted once the 12v is disconnected. Maybe if you keep it running for a while, the codes will come back again.

 

I'm going to see if anybody else will ring in on this thread, I'm out of ideas. There must be some other issues after the car sat for 2 years, I just can't think of them that would cause your problem.

 

no, 2004 doesn't have a tire sensor....and that wouldn't prevent it from going into D

 

No codes? How did the Torque Pro PID install go?

 

have you tried in ACC mode?

also, one of the Torque Pro settings slows the communication speed down in Settings-OBD2 Adapter Settings-Faster communication - I turn this off.

 

I've seen this with a weak 12 volt battery.

 

Your symptoms are similar to what a P0AA6 code would cause. That's a high voltage leak. Normally disconnecting the 12 volt will allow one restart.

Get a MIni VCI cable, Techstream, and an old Windows XP computer. Order it through Amazon and search for sellers eligible for Amazon Prime even if you do not use Prime. Then you know the VCI will ship from the US and you won't wait for three weeks to get it.

Torque is not as complete a code reader as a MIni VCI. You really need to read the codes.

Brad

 

"What we have here is a failure to communicate." Some of your codes deal with multiplex comm system issues, the others deal with ECU issues.

Fuses AM1 (drivers side fuse box) and AM2 (engine compartment j/b) may be related, and should be easy to check. Otherwise you may have to track down a wiring harness issue.

 

1. How do you know the engine is running? There is a big difference between MG1 spinning the engine in an attempt to start it, vs. the engine actually running on its own power. You can tell by depressing the accelerator pedal. If the engine speeds up then I will accept that it is running under its own power.
2. How do you know the traction battery is being charged?
3. Do not assume that the traction battery is fine just because MG1 is spinning the engine. The battery could have a high voltage ground fault or it could have a weak battery module.
4. If the engine truly was running then the READY light should come on and the car could be driven.
5. IG-ON means that all dashboard warning lights are on. The READY light is not on, the engine has not started and the car cannot be driven.

It is not helpful for you to take a simplistic view of the car's systems, if you want to solve its problems.

After checking fuses AM1 and AM2, find the 20A HEV fuse, remove it, and use an ohmmeter to check for continuity. That fuse is located on integration relay B, mounted in the main relay/fuse box next to the inverter.

If that fuse is good, there are wiring harness checks you can do. Access the factory repair manual info at techinfo.toyota.com and look up DTC B1260.

Any sign of rodent infestation? That would cause wiring harness issues.

If the wiring harness is good then the transmission control ECU needs to be replaced.