Prius wont "ready"

so i have two pri, 2005, the one with 299,999 miles on it, i just took to arizona and was super impressed that it made it round trip. The thing has had electrical problems since I found it with an exploded HV battery and the positive terminal block thing (on the AUX battery) cut off and brake accumulator completely shot (I also added an aux port to the radio and wired a resistor between two wires),

So during my road trip, i noticed the HV battery fan wasnt working properly and thus had to override it to keep the fan constantly on (using OBD and dr prius). Still in the AZ desert and crossing the rockies , it got to 130 degrees. The battery (which is 5 years old tops, straight from toyota) also had a hell of a time coming back across the rockies, draining down to 23% before i could pull over and charge/let it cool down. i thought id found the defective corroded wire and cleaned it but didnt get time to test it out (or plug it back in!) before my wife took the car to get groceries it died very quickly...now ive never had a prius die on me, and ive done everything to my pri, so having the battery fan unplugged doesnt seem like it would kill the whole car so fast. She got it pushed to a bar and 6 hours later I tried to start it, and it did start but it sounded terrible, like the engine was just struggling. So in a panic i turned it off , noticed the unplugged fan and plugged it back in, and reset the 12 volt. Now i cant get it back into ready mode. one click, only. Ive tried jumping the weak 12 volt. plugging and unplugging the fan wire. Im getting Codes P3190, P3191, P0A0F, (and 0420 , which it has always had).
So engine failed to start, matches with the noise it was making when i did start it. The battery is at 23% SOC , so ive for sure done damage on the road trip but why wont the engine start?

Which leads me to investigate my other Prt battery fan. Turns out, it also doesnt operate correctly. It can read at a speed of 4 but i hear nothing from the fan itself. It can be 130 degrees in the battery and the fan wont turn on at all. I cant drive my cars with a forced OBD fan always on. This has probably been the cause of many of my HV battery issues but how do i fix it?

 

Really? that is very interesting because mine started with the fan unplugged, engine sounded rough so i shut her down and plugged the fan back in and now it wont ready. On my other pri, if i unplug the fan while in ready i get a red triangle. Anyone know if 23% SOC is too low to start the engine?

 

That's what i was doing in the first place, cleaned with alcohol , then forgot to plug it back in.

 

Awesome thank you, but why would i be getting poor engine power and engine wont start codes? i cleaned the MAF sensor and changed out the hybrid battery but still no second click on start up. just the one click (like it does with the service plug not installed)

 

No the problems was my fan shouldve been running, it is happening on both my cars, so i literally have to drive with an obd2 scanner to force the fan on all the time

 

I have searched those codes, they are notoriously vague and non specific but my engine isnt starting is the basic gist of it. Im using a OBD2 with some Asian sounding knockoff name, and an app called Car Scanner and Dr. Prius. I just cant get miniVLC and techstream to work , not being a computer person. So no subcodes, tho i think that may be my only hope to narrowing down stuff without replacing one thing at a time.

However I have freeze frame data below

Starter fluid? like seafoam? in the oil or gas tank?

 

Huh never heard of that. Like directly into the airbox? Isnt that supposed to clean the air used by the engine?
How do i clean the throttle body so quickly?

I havent tried the techstream thing in a while, i dont even have my minivlc anymore because i gave up when i found an obd2 that would at least work with prius.

Does that freeze frame data tell you anything?

 

Interesting development that I know is related. When I go to jump the car with a known good 12 volt aux battery I get no spark from the jump points. The jump process still works, and I get a reading on a voltmeter, but there’s no little spark to let you know you’ve successfully connected to a ground. I know that is of significance because I noticed it the day that it died. Like I said i used to have to jump the car every time I started it so very familiar with the whole procedure and this stands out to me . Thoughts? I feel it is a fuse or relay that is preventing the engine from starting (also the one click instead of two )

 

It makes me really uneasy that I don’t know how I fixed this but all has been well since I swapped the battery pack for a more “ balanced one”. Still a voltage difference of .2-.3 but no codes.