Prius won't start after Suspension/Brake work done, ideas?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Michael H, Jul 30, 2019.

  1. Michael H

    Michael H Junior Member

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    Had someone replace my shocks and strut assemblies on the back/front, also had them replace the wheel hub assembly and brake drums/shoes. Car should be mostly set except for a sway bar needing replaced. Went to pick it up and the car won't start. Guy said he hadn't been able to start it all day (he has worked on gen 1 prii so I he knew how to start one). Wondering if it is the battery or what.

    The symptoms include:
    -Hearing relay sometimes click when trying to start car, but no lights or etc. Hear the mechanical whirl for a moment but nothing post.
    -Not able to get acc on
    -Lights don't appear dim, but not sure
    -Car notices when the fob is near
    -Able to lock/unlock doors with key fob (haven't tried the alarm)
    -Tried key fob in ignition (should work both ways)
    -Turn signals do not work

    Things Tried:
    -Tried to disconnect the 12v and leave for 10s (probably should've tried longer)
    -Tried a jump in the front/back.
    ---When trying the jump in the front, it did act like it was attempting to start more

    I have been having issues with my dash sometimes not coming on when I start. But usually the car turns on without an issue, I just don't have an instrument panel for that drive lol. Know this is a semi-common problem and was planning on addressing it, but not sure if this can prevent the car from starting?

    Trying to charge the 12v battery with my Reaktor battery balancer tonight and see if that works tomorrow. If so, then simply it's the battery. Just not sure what else I should be expecting. Thinking it could also be the key fob, which I have the software to possibly configure that. But not sure if I can log into the ecu with the car not turning on 'acc on' mode.

    Any other thoughts or ideas? Not sure which fuses I should check for something like this. Just trying to have some ideas put together if the battery does not work in the morning. Thanks!!
     
    #1 Michael H, Jul 30, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2019
  2. donbright

    donbright Member

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    If you are talking about the combination meter going bad, then yes, in my experience it can keep the car from starting, and it can be extremely random. One (of several) times I was stranded - i disconnected the battery and called AAA, and sat in the cabin, but a little while later i reconnected the battery, tried it again, and it started up, so i cancelled the tow. Not sure if it was my body heat or what, seems like it happened more often in cold weather. I eventually got a refurbished unit from TexasHybridBatteries and it has been working perfect ever since.
     
  3. M in KC

    M in KC Member

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    Check the State of Charge of your 12 volt battery either through the MFD or with a multi-meter. The tech who performed your service work could of left a door ajar while servicing your vehicle and thus draining the battery to a point of inoperability. If noting else you can take your 12 volt battery to an auto parts store as most test them for free.
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    check the resting voltage before trying to charge it. and make sure your charger is low enough in amps.
    how old is the 12v?
     
  5. Michael H

    Michael H Junior Member

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    Can not with MFD since I can not get the electrical system to turn on. Think the resting voltage was around 12.40volts. Yea was hoping so, but took the battery home and topped it up. Think I got about another 5-8 amps worth of juice into it, so guessing about a 25% state of charge (given normal resting is not 100% SOC) added based on the size of battery.

    Took the recently topped off battery to the site today and still no luck. Also found out that I am unable to unlock my doors with the keyfob on my person. Does this mean my key needs re-programmed? Haven't had someone else test the battery. The IR (Internal Resistance) was 28 milliohm when fully charged - not sure how this compares.



    Older then I had expected, from Jan/2015. But the battery did take a bit more juice then I anticipated. I would believe it would have had enough to at least start the car without the dash if this were the issue. The battery does say it has a 84 month warranty on it (OEM Battery), but guessing it would have to fail their test for them to issue a new one? Also the charger is a smart charger, it does read the voltage and automatically lowers to a trickle charge [that I can specify in mA]. Am using the Reaktor 1000w I used to test prius cells, thanks for the look-out! :)

    Yea I have had combination meter start to go out since last winter, so it's been over half a year now. Sometimes the car would start without the hud displaying anything. Usually would go away after the next start and may not appear for a few days or weeks/months. Seemed to occur when the temperature fluctuated in either extreme -- indicating a likely bad solder joint. Wanted to find a kit, so I could repair it myself without sending my meter in. But appears I may have to order one just to try and get my car moved.

    That was my only programmed key too. Know if I can log into the ecu without having the car on to re-program my key? Any way to manually put the car into neutral either? As I know it doesn't have a standard mechanical link that can be disengaged.
     
    #5 Michael H, Jul 31, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2019
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  6. Michael H

    Michael H Junior Member

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    Just bought a new instrument panel / cluster gauge / speedometer. Prices are different as some people get less views and likely lower price fyi. But still wondering if it is my key, will do a little more digging on it.

    Given I'll need that instrument panel anyway.. so might as well get it under $100 shipped. Will the prius report the new panels reading on miles or does the ECU control the digits? Would be entertaining if it was just a counter with a digital signal saying up 1 bit each mile lol.
     
  7. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The odometer reading comes from the combination meter ECU. Hence if you are installing a used unit, the odometer reading will be whatever had been logged by the donor vehicle.

    Your car has so many problems, it is hard to know where to start. However, your post #1 says that the fob worked. Then your post #5 says the fob doesn't work. The obvious first thing to try is to replace the CR2032 battery in the fob.

    Measure the voltage across the 12V battery with a digital multimeter, now that the battery was fully-charged and some time has passed since you took the battery off the charger. What voltage reading do you get?

    There is no manual way to put the transaxle into N. You must apply power to the car so that you can shift from P into N. If you cannot do that, then the tow truck can just drag the car onto the flatbed, with the tires squealing.
     
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  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    everything you're doing is a little vague, it's hard to determine the cause yet.

    have you put in a new fob battery?

    oops, good call patrick :p
     
  9. Michael H

    Michael H Junior Member

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    I can measure it when I return back to the vehicle. When I went to start the car with the topped up battery, it would've been around 14-14.2V.

    The key fob works to unlock and lock the doors via remote fob buttons, but I am not able to use my automatic door unlock with the handle. I just replaced my key fob battery about 2 weeks ago, as I bought I replacement plastic housing. Thought I had seen some other posts mentioning this could mean the remote needs re-programmed.

    Edit: When I was trying to start the car, sometimes the car would beep for the door open and sometimes not. I also am not able to get the turn signals to illuminate on the dash, but believe the car needs to be in the 'on' state.

    Edit 2: Found this: Prius key no longer recognized - Maintenance/Repairs - Car Talk Community
    Not Toyota official, but guy had a similar problem after getting front end work done. Possibly triggered a security response, as they likely did have to remove a bit on the front/back to get at the shocks/struts.
     
    #9 Michael H, Jul 31, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2019
  10. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The plastic housing has an RFID chip attached. If you did not transfer the chip to the new housing then the fob functionality will be impaired, for example when the fob is inserted into the dash slot it should be possible to start the car even if the fob battery is dead. Maybe that is the reason the car does not recognize the fob as you approach the door handle.
     
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  11. Michael H

    Michael H Junior Member

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    I wish, but yea I did transfer the key fob board into the new one.

    So I also realized that we forgot to pull the fuses for the hydraulic braking system when working on all of it. Luckily the brake wasn't depressed nor did we bleed the brakes. I planned on bleeding the brakes come Monday (my day off); which is when a few more parts should be in too. Usually this only causes warning lights (car has already had them on) but I already have the techstream software and OBDII reader. Which will let me clear those / program a new key / bleed the brakes. In this software, you can also control whether opening your door opens only your door or all 4 for guests - rather than them waiting for the manual unlock.
     
  12. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    He said RFID chip, not the board. There is a small chip in the fob located in the half of the case that does NOT have the circuit board. That must also be transferred to a new case. Thats how the car recognizes the FOB is the right one when inserted into the slot.

    Take a look at the dashboard under the steering wheel. There should be a button labelled KEY. That can be used to deactivate the SKS remote functions. Maybe your SKS was accidently turned off. Then you tried to use the slot, but with no RFID chip, the car wont recognize the fob.
     
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  13. Michael H

    Michael H Junior Member

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    Can the Key button being disengaged prevent the car from starting without the RFID your saying? Or maybe just a possibility?

    Sure enough after getting 3 attempts for someone to finally tow it, I was able to log into techstream. Ubered there yesterday thinking the usb to obdII port was in the car, nope! Lol, sat there for 6+ hours figuring out a tow and not having any time left in my shift. Given it paid for itself for me not to take it to a dealer but still fun lol

    On the Toyota Techstream Software (v13.0) I got codes:
    Under Power Source Control
    • B2289 - Key Collation Waiting Time Over [x - current]
    Under Immobiliser
    • B2775 - Interior Verification (to Theft Deterrent ECU / Smart Key ECU) [x - current] --- hmmm
    • B2796 - No Communication in Immobiliser System [x - history]
    Under Gateway:
    • B1271 - Combination Meter ECU Communication Stop [x - history]

    These were essentially the only systems I could read with the car not on. TIS did help to narrow the issue, but Patrick did call it ;) :p I thought I possibly threw out that fob, else I would've looked sooner.. Given I've realized it's been over a month since I replaced it. Surprised why it let me use it without the RFID present in the car for that long before. .

    Shame my mechanic heard that you have to bleed the brakes with a toyota. Not a bid tip, but try to bleed the front/backs without the software. Brake fluid resivoir tank is empty, gonna be using TIS to finally do my brakes.. plus some guy started to pour brake fluid into the Inverter fluid tank without realizing which lid was which in the dark when they did it :/
    --He claimed to pinch the house and drain the reservoir, but it still had a bit of fluid, so I am kinda doubtful. Not sure if this system needs flushed. Gonna probably work on this car tomorrow on my day off. Hopefully it all comes together, I even just freshened up my K&N filters :)

    Thanks for the posts
     
    #13 Michael H, Aug 3, 2019
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2019
  14. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Can the Key button being disengaged prevent the car from starting without the RFID your saying? Or maybe just a possibility?

    What I'm saying is that if the SKS "KEY" button is activated ("in" position), it disables the car from sensing the FOB for starting the car. Locks etc will still work from the buttons. This is used mainly to help prevent the 12v battery from draining if the car won't be used for a long period.

    With SKS for starting the car disabled, you must insert the FOB into the slot. The car recognizes that the correct FOB is inserted by detecting the correct RFID chip inside the FOB. My FOB will not work in your car because when a key is initially registered to the car, it's RFID chip is also registered. If someone bought new FOB cases and failed to switch the RFID chip over to the new case, well, they're going to no longer be able to use the slot as an option for that FOB.
     
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  15. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Prius Key Fob RFID Chip.png Prius Key Fob RFID Chip 2.png
     
  16. Michael H

    Michael H Junior Member

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    I misunderstood the function of that button, thanks for the clarification. Yea I did find the RFID chip and swapped it out. Still gotta bleed the brakes and change the instrument panel but soon I'll be able to read my miles again! Lol

    Thank you everyone for the help!
     
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