Probably diving into the engine coolant thermos soon

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by jerrymildred, Jan 15, 2019.

  1. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Now that I think about it, I believe I had the driver's headlight out too, that would've made it easier and provide more room.

    These important details I forget, must be getting old.......
     
  2. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Hey Jerry-

    Having trouble following this thread. Is it the 3 way valve you changed? I thought that was easier to get too as I may need to do mine soon all your hand injuries say otherwise.
     
  3. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Apologies for the title. when I wrote it, I thought the valve was on the canister. Silly me. I have some photos now and I'll insert them after responding to Ed.

    I don't think it was all that hard to get to itself, but there wasn't much room for getting a grip on the hose clamps with any of my pliers. With these blood thinners, it seems like I bruise from a stern look.

    OK, photos and current status:
    IMG_9857.jpg
    Here's how much I removed. It's hard to tell exactly in the black Toyota jugs, but I know I'm still well short of having put that much back in. I was only able to add maybe a cup this morning after driving it about 10 minutes yesterday with the heater on HI. Looks like about another quart to go. No codes after yesterday's drive.

    After adding that little bit this morning and taking another 10-minute drive, the check engine light came back. A little before that, I heard a good belch from somewhere - sounded like probably the heater core since it was so loud. Checked it with techstream and got P1116, P1118, P1122, and P1150. So, when it cools down again, I think I should be able to add quite a bit more coolant this time.


    IMG_9844.jpg
    Here's where it was before I drained it and the overflow tank was exactly at the bottom line, which is where it's been for months.

    IMG_9849.jpg IMG_9850.jpg IMG_9851.jpg
    Exterior of the old valve.

    IMG_9852.jpg
    Motor and gear mechanism. When I applied 12V to the motor, it all seemed to work. Todd told me that there can be gunk in the valve that hinders it. Could be. Time will tell.

    IMG_9855.jpg
    Gears removed. That's the input shaft to the valve in the center. I was hoping to be able to get behind the cover, but it must be glued down solid. Won't budge. I was able to easily turn the valve shaft with an adjustable wrench, but couldn't turn it with my fingers, if that gives you an idea of the resistance. I did NOT try a comparison using the new one. :whistle:

    IMG_9856.jpg
    The shaft on this little potentiometer goes inside the valve input shaft, presumably to monitor the valve's position.

    IMG_9848 copy.jpg
    New valve in place and ready to go. This is looking down from about the hood latch toward the driver's side fender. Those two hose clamps were the biggest challenge probably due to their orientation and my plier selection. Edit to add: It went together WAY easier than it came apart.

    So, now I know a lot more than I did a few days ago about this rather sophisticated valve. I just have to finish filling the radiator. I hope. (y)
     
    #23 jerrymildred, Jan 19, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2019
  4. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Check engine light returns, yikes.

    Don't forget to bleed. Did you get a chance to look at your regular water pump? Make sure it's not leaking?

    Screenshot_2019-01-19-08-00-48.jpeg
     
    #24 JC91006, Jan 19, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2019
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  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    OTC 4525 :)

    Almost certainly, there'll be an Active Test somewhere in Techstream where you can command the valve to different positions and see what value comes back from that potentiometer. Potentially a more blood-thinner-friendly way to check on the action of the valve.

    -Chap
     
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  6. m.wynn

    m.wynn Senior Member

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    Jerry, maybe I missed it but I haven't seen you mention you used the "Dr. Wong CHRS pump relay jump trick" to cycle the thermos pump several times until you can't add any more coolant to the system. Additionally, as JC shows in his pic, you want to run a length of clear pvc tubing from the bleeder to the radiator while cycling. If you haven't done this you should find it's the missing link to getting the entire, convoluted mess of an engine coolant circuit filled to capacity.

    Having done the 3-way swap on both our '05 and '07, I've ended up cycling the pump probably 10 times or more before the system truly won't take any more coolant added at the radiator. Once you're sure it won't take any more, cycle the pump again a time or 6 for good measure. Cycle 10-15 seconds at at time and give a minute or 2 between each run to cool the pump while you check level and add coolant as needed.

    These 2 vids from @jreed are good. You can start at around 17 minutes of part 1. At the beginning of part 2 he explains how to the jump the relay for the thermos pump. I just use a paper clip but I understand you may find it difficult to not break out the dvom;)..

    Engine coolant change DIY video posted | PriusChat

    Patrick did an excellent written descriptive some years back, too, if you dig around some.
     
    #26 m.wynn, Jan 19, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2019
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Apparently there are some aftermarket Gen 2 radiators that still have the bleed valve at the top left corner, but lack the nipple at the bleed valve where you could attach the clear tubing. I think I've seen two that way now. Inconvenient and messy.
     
  8. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Thanks, but I've done inverter coolant a couple times. Not quite the same as engine coolant, though.

    I checked all that before starting. Not leaking at all. No pink stuff anywhere. (Well it's kind of splattered all over now, but that's brand new. :)) As you can see from the coolant level before I began, if it was leaking, someone was topping it off and not telling me. For sure not my wife. LOL! Yes, I bled it. And bled it. And bled it. Ran tubing from the bleed valve on top of the rad to the overflow tank. Hand got tired from all the hose squeezing. Pumping the hose seemed to pay the biggest dividends. I just did it again once it cooled off and got lots more bubbles. There were still a few occasional tiny bubbles at the end of this last bleed, but they were few and far between. I'm really close to having poured back as much as I took out. I just took a 20-minute drive with the heater on full blast again and no codes yet. I'll check the level again in the morning. I think I'm all done but the last few ounces.

    I didn't think to look for that. But so far, it's looking like the valve really did need replacement.
     
  9. padroo

    padroo Senior Member

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    Here is the answer to those nasty hose clamps that are facing the wrong way. When they were put on in the factory nothing was nothing in the way.




     
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  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    If it's just a matter of the clamp's tang orientation being hard to access, you can sometime either drag or push it, rotate the tangs to a more accessible orientation.
     
  11. padroo

    padroo Senior Member

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    I ran into a bunch of hose clamps on my Prowler that were all facing the wrong way when I changed the timing belt then I learned about the new tool which I now own but have never used yet.
     
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  12. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Padroo for the win! lol....nice hose clamp pliars I want one.

    Jerry dd not know you were on BT if you just bump into something it leaves a mark. Very nice 3way autopsy though. I have seen posts on here about a bleed valve on the upper side of the rad drivers side but mine does not have one. Wish it did.

    You must do what M Wynn says as it most likely has invoked airlock based on you hearing a loud belch. Should be no loud belches lol. Be careful it can overheat fast and pop the head gasket. Monitor engine temp as you drive. That loop is a bitch.
     
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  13. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I bought a similar hose clamp tool in 2017 when I replaced the various coolant hoses on my Jaguar. It works really well.
     
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  14. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Yup, those would have come in handy. I have a gift card for Amazon that would cover most of that. Good insurance against ever needing them. LOL!

    Yup. That's what I did. It's just that they were really tight and there wasn't enough room to get in there.

    That bleed valve is a real lifesaver! I wonder why yours doesn't have the bleed valve. It is hidden. There's a dark hole in the sheet metal above the radiator and you reach down there with a 6mm hex wrench. The nipple is also hidden under the sheet metal. And, yes, I was watching temperatures. Good reminder, though because I didn't mention it. Probably lots of stuff I didn't mention. :)
     
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  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    ... when the radiator hasn't been replaced by a nipple-free version (n)
     
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  16. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Thanks Jerry I will look again for the bleeder.
     
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  17. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    If it's the original radiator, I'd think it would be there.

    As for mine, when I checked it cold this morning, the coolant was showing at the bottom of the filler neck at the elbow and the overflow tank was just below the top line. Tried to bleed it and could not get any bubbles at all. Topped it off and drove till the temps were up to about 153F with heater still on full blast. Glad I'm not doing this in the summer!!! Will check again this afternoon. I THINK I may be done other than regular checks for a while.
     
  18. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    You need to get the coolant temp up to at least 180 degrees F which is where the thermostat starts to open.

    If you should find that P1116 returns, try running the CHRS pump manually via software control using Mini VCI or else by manually shorting the switched terminals at the socket of the CHS relay. The point of that is to fill the CHS canister in case some air persists in that part of the engine coolant loop.
     
    #38 Patrick Wong, Jan 20, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2019
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  19. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    After manually running the CHRS tank then:

    Put the car in inspection mode and let it run without the heat on till it reaches operating temp. Then feel the rad hoses both should be hot.
    Once up to op temp 190 then run the heater while listening for gurgling and watch the engine temp.
     
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  20. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    I did run the pump about a half dozen times early in the fill process. When I took it out the time before last, I got it up to 193 degrees. I think I'll do that again right now. It takes forever to get up to temperature in maintenance mode, soI just drive around the block as many times as it takes.

    Thanks guys.
     
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