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" PROBLEM " + constant beep after merging onto highway -- brake actuator?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by maleko, Jun 5, 2024.

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  1. maleko

    maleko Member

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    This morning as I merged onto the highway and got on the throttle my 2nd Gen Prius threw a fit along with a single quick beep + "PROBLEM" on the MFD and went into some form of reduced power / limp mode. To me, it felt almost as if the throttle was being held slightly open on its own, like a form of run-on, but I have had similar experiences in the past and was able to get off at the very next exit and coast into a nearby parking lot.

    As I braked slightly to round the right hand turn the constant beeping kicked in (never had that happen in all past incidents of malfunctions / loss of power / etc), just a single high pitched constant tone. As I braked a bit more before turning into the parking, the front wheels locked up briefly (rather easily) and I could tell I had no proper ABS. Shortly after that my power steering went limp and I had to muscle the steering wheel while my Prius also did not want to go in/out of gears and flipped into neutral on its own iirc. I was in front of the spot I intended to back into at that point so I just pushed it into place myself before parking it with ebrake and trying a round or two of "turn it off and back on again".

    After power cycling via disconnecting the 12V in the back trunk area twice did nothing I called the towtruck and brought it home. I pulled the codes sitting in my driveway. While doing so I had the 12V battery on a charger just in case, and my HV battery started out at 3 or 4 bars but after fighting with TS forever the HV battery worked its way down to 1 bar (or less probably). It does go into standby, and then ready, but still complains of "problem" and wont kick on the ICE to charge the HV pack, etc.

    The new codes it threw that matter today are:

    Hybrid Control
    P3004-131 " High Voltage Power Resource "

    ABS/VSC//TRAC
    C0200 " Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Signal Malfunction "
    C0205 " Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor Signal Malfunction "
    C1241 " Low Battery Positive Voltage or Abnormally High Battery Positive "

    I think it may be time to finally replace my 12V battery as a starting point, but the P3004-131 caught me off guard...
    Any input is welcome. Thanks!
     
    #1 maleko, Jun 5, 2024
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    #2 bisco, Jun 5, 2024
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  3. maleko

    maleko Member

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    to clarify, I need to remove back seat + trunk trimmings as if I were going to swap the HV pack to get to all the main items I need to test, correct?
     
    #3 maleko, Jun 5, 2024
  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    No you lay the back seat down You will need to move the side pieces in the trunk that the seat belt recoils into and what have you then you have these two little brackets that swing out from the sides of the car and sit on top of the battery The sheet metal the same color as the battery cover bunch of 12 mm bolts take all that out there are some 12 mm that sit in between the seat back bottom and that frame rail there but a ratcheting combination wrench takes them right out in short order You can remove the seat backs if you like extra step for no reason but carry on there's a bunch of videos of doing just this that you can pause while you're doing it and all of that You want to look under the hood of that battery and see what things are looking like frosted nuts black colored bus bars so on. Looks like there's a lot of intermittent things going on things can't communicate wheel sensors aren't responding fast enough generally maybe the 12 volt is definitely time for something I mean if you've been waiting for a certain event or I don't know but usually the 12 volts pretty easy to test and if it doesn't pass a load test well you need to do something about that or you get to this point while you're waiting for the funds to buy a new expensive AGM battery or something I don't know.
     
    #4 Tombukt2, Jun 5, 2024
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  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    The constant beep that never ends that I always get is on the back of the CM monitor there's a speaker and it's beeping telling you or telling me generally that my accumulator is not able to hold the pressure for the brakes pumping the brakes a bunch of times and all of this will make it go off and then it comes back on then it goes off then sometimes in my car it'll come on for all three to five minutes then it'll finally go off and stay off for a while till I use the brakes a bit again and on and on and on car breaks differently but it stops a few times I've driven for months like this trying to find another actuator without paying $1,400
     
    #5 Tombukt2, Jun 5, 2024
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  6. maleko

    maleko Member

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    ah, too late. I've got it tore down to the HV pack, about to test resistor and go from there... the 200A fuse in the service plug is good too.

    I drive 80 miles per day, morning run around 500AM so the heat isn't so much of an issue then but the afternoon commute is brutally hot. I've just been limping my 12V along since it's been working fine even though I haven't changed it since owning this and I'm not sure how old it was when I bought the car back in 2014ish. It's probably 10+ years old with mostly long highway commute miles on it. 0605241544_HDR.jpeg

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #6 maleko, Jun 5, 2024
  7. maleko

    maleko Member

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    main resistor tested at 19.9 ohms, working on identifying and testing the main relay #1 next

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #7 maleko, Jun 5, 2024
  8. maleko

    maleko Member

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    main relay #1:

    not clicking with 12V applied to terminals 1 & 2
    resistance across terminals 5 & 6 appears to be 119 ohms regardless of 12v input on 1 & 2...

    it definitely needs replaced

    should I bother testing #2 and #3 relays at this point? Image.jpeg

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #8 maleko, Jun 5, 2024
  9. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I don't think this is the right methodology for the relays every time I've had this happen and it's been quite a few times I can't get the relay test to work so I just ripped the battery pack out and stick it in another car and the car starts and works and I know it's not that battery That's the only way I found to do it quickly and I have enough cars that I can usually just drop it in another car sitting and boom I've tapping three or four times I've had batteries of people swore up and down the relays won't click and there's something wrong with the battery and on and on and on I drop it in my car click click click it fires right up most of the time it even starts the engine and then you're back looking at the car wondering what's going on where the battery originally came from knowing that it's not that I've gone to cars out in the middle of fields parked and just brought a 12 volt drop the 12 volt in car been sitting 6 months. Fires right up and we drive it out of the field I think there's more to testing those relays than just putting 12 volts and they click I don't think that's the thing One of the guys who does all this electrical nonsense will be a long shortly and tell you the methodology for the testing I guess but like I say I usually just pick up the whole pack and stick it in one of my other cars don't even bolt it down just to see if when I electrically connect it it's relays are going to click and everything opens like it does and supposed to like it always has 90% of the time matter of fact at the moment I'd say 100% of the time it is not been the battery's problem whatever was going on was in the car.
     
    #9 Tombukt2, Jun 5, 2024
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  10. maleko

    maleko Member

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    I mis-read and mis-underestood how to test the relays and tested relay #1 in the opposite manner I was supposed to... turns out all 3 are good and I was just being dumb, lol.

    that also puts me back to square 1 as well unfortunately.... onward I suppose.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #10 maleko, Jun 5, 2024
  11. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    The 12V is more than 10 years old? I would replace it proactively at that point. The OEM battery is pricey though. Walmart sells a compatible AGM battery for this car.
     
    #11 pasadena_commut, Jun 5, 2024
  12. maleko

    maleko Member

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    figured I'd give my HV battery a once over to rule out any loose nuts or connections. I know they tend to develop corrosion over time. not sure if this is worth disassembling, cleaning, and reassembling, or just buying new bus bar kit? what is the general consensus on using some form of dielectric grease to stave off humidity and moisture? I live in Florida and my Prius is less than water tight these days. I don't blame my battery for flirting with the green death. 0606241941_HDR.jpeg 0606242012_HDR.jpeg 0606242012b_HDR.jpeg 0606242013a_HDR.jpeg

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #12 maleko, Jun 6, 2024
  13. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    You're just asking for trouble. To this point, the battery has given no indication that there are any problems in that area, so you risk muddying the waters with your current problem by introducing battery issues. Fix your current problem first and if you want to mess with the battery you can do that afterwards.
     
    #13 dolj, Jun 7, 2024
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  14. maleko

    maleko Member

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    fair enough, I happened to see a post where a loose nut on a module terminal / bus bar caused similar codes as mine so I figured I'd check while I was into the HV pack ... also I dropped a damn nut that I wasn't about to leave bouncing around in the HV relay area of the pack so taking out the battery was the easiest way for me to recover it, lol.

    I have a VCX Nano WiFi should be arriving today for quicker / less headaches troubleshooting. I also have a spare laptop I'm going to deploy TS on so I don't have to deal with running it in a VM.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #14 maleko, Jun 7, 2024
  15. maleko

    maleko Member

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    HV pack back in, all of its bits and pieces have been checked, 213VDC at the output legs currently. Prius wont go into green light ready mode, only orange light standby mode. working on acquiring and setting up TS + VCX Nano WiFi now.

    2 questions:

    1.) does anyone have a known good / decent copy of TS 18? I currently only have v12, which is fine if need be, just wanted to get the newer version while I'm going thru all this trouble again if anyone has easy access to it.

    2.) does anyone have a copy/link to the full service manual / documentation in a single file/location?

    (link or DM me if need be.)
     
    #15 maleko, Jun 7, 2024
  16. maleko

    maleko Member

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    after much hassle re-deploying a new TS instance on another laptop, taking the HV pack out, putting it back in again after testing the relays-resistor-etc, removing the 12V, polishing up all connections and making sure it was charged full and everything tight, I have a new, slightly different set of results to share:

    (still announces PROBLEM on the MFD and will not go into ready)

    • ABS/VSC/TRAC
      • C0200 " Front Speed Sensor RH Circuit "
        • appeared previously
        • freeze frame data available
      • C0205 " Front Speed Sensor LH Circuit "
        • appeared previously
      • C1241 " Low Battery Positive Voltage or Abnormally High Battery Positive Voltage "
        • appeared previously
      • C1259 " HV System Regenerative Malfunction "
        • NEW - first appearance
      • C1310 " HV System Malfunction "
        • NEW - first appearance
    Curiously, missing is the HYBRID CONTROL DTC code P3004-131 altogether this time around.

    I'm mostly just hoping it is not the brake actuator / inverter / trans / expensive ECU(s) / etc.
    Not sure which direction to head next?

    I was also browsing this thread here:

    P0A80 and c1259 and c1310 | PriusChat

    and while I do not have the P0A80 code, it did remind me that a couple months back I did catch one hell of a pothole on my passenger side that put a minor flat spot on the inside lip of my front rim, and saw me replace both tires on the passenger side of the vehicle. (Both rims still balance out normally and run smooth at speed so I didn't bother replacing them.)

    So now I am beginning to wonder about that wheel speed sensor.

    Also of note, while sitting in the drivers seat pulling the codes this evening, my dash (that never comes on anymore) decided to just spontaneously come to life after sitting in orange-light "ready" mode for a while (pressed power button twice but since car isnt going into green-light "ready" mode it doesnt fully power up).

    I noticed when pressing the brake pedal it was causing the dash and MFD to cut off and go black as if from lack of power, then when releasing the brake pedal the screen to the MFD turned back on along with the dash.

    Could that also be caused by a shot 12V battery or is it indicative of something more?
     
    #16 maleko, Jun 8, 2024
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2024
  17. maleko

    maleko Member

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    Screenshot_20240609-151304-01.jpeg
    picked this up at Walmart, adjusted the battery holder bracket using my vice, all good on the 12V front, sitting nice and snug where the old one was, with its hold down bar across the top :)
     
    #17 maleko, Jun 23, 2024 at 4:31 PM
  18. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    These are codes (from the brake system, as it happens) that just tell you there are other codes being reported by the HV control ECU. If you see these but you don't also see any HV control ECU codes at the same time, the usual explanation is that you're using a scan tool that can see brake codes but not HV control ones.

    On the other hand, if Techstream is what you're using, it's plain weird.
     
    #18 ChapmanF, Jun 23, 2024 at 8:30 PM
  19. maleko

    maleko Member

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    I am using proper TechStream, it may have just been a fluke.

    My other thread has my 3 main codes in the title that have remained consistently throughout my troubleshooting process and I've gone through the entire troubleshooting tech tree from the P3004-131 workup.

    It appears to be time for a new inverter since in step 11, I was only getting 0.50VDC at the measured terminals on the HV Control ECU and not the 1.60V - 3.80V expected.on connector H15.
     
    #19 maleko, Jun 24, 2024 at 4:10 PM
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