Problem dash is completely dead and Ignition switch no lights

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Tom600x, Nov 15, 2020.

  1. Tom600x

    Tom600x New Member

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    I have a 2009 Toyota Prius problem is the car will not start up and the dash is completely out, this occurred after I unplugged and plugged in the aux battery when I was clearing a previous code. The only thing that lights up on the dash are the hazard lights and the door open indicator. Also if the key fob is not in or near the car when pressing the ignition (on switch) it will display the missing key indicator so this tells me that the on switch is doing something. I also tried each keyfob near and in the slot.

    I have had a bad or weak aux battery in the past and this is not the same. The aux battery is charged and I am getting +12 volts at the fuse panel. I checked the AM2 fuse and that also has power as well as the fusible link. I also checked power at the fuses under the drivers side and the Gauge fuse has power. I checked I believe all fuses for continuity, most in and out of the car.

    I have the Toyota tech software but can not get it or another code reader to read any thing.

    I have also unplugged and plugged in the main battery and aux battery after letting it unplugged for a few days.

    The key fobs seem to work since they do open the doors and the lights flash.

    The ignition swtich / on button and dash do not light up at all no circle of green or orange, nothing.

    Before the dash issue I was able to read codes with the toyota software and another code reader.

    Any help is appreciated I tried a lot of information on this forum and elsewhere. I do not believe it is the same as other dash issues since others say their car works even thou the dash is out.

    Thanks for any help on this.
     
  2. Tom600x

    Tom600x New Member

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    I also pulled the DOME fuse and checked that and it was good.
     
  3. Aegean

    Aegean Member

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    Besides the checks you did on the positive side I would check the ground starting with the ground strap. If you use your voltmeter with negative probe on 12v negative pole and the positive probe on the chassis do you get any voltage? What about between engine block and chassis?

    Do you hear the brake actuator when you open your door? Test also voltage between actuator ground and chassis. Any voltage?

    Just to make sure I would connect a jumper cable between the negative battery post and the engine or chassis to create additional grounding ( reduce resistance) and try if dash lights and modules work.
     
  4. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Don’t bother measuring anything at the battery.

    It only matters what the voltage is at the front jump point. That where the car sees the 12 volts. Measuring at the front jump point checks 8 battery connections and a long heavy duty cable before it hits the fuse box

    If voltage there is bad then you can go into full search and destroy on the battery in the hatch.
     
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  5. Tom600x

    Tom600x New Member

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    Thanks for the reply the voltage is good at the fuse box, front jump point + after the fusible link.
     
  6. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    The next step would be to then check all the fuses with an ohmmeter if you didn't do that when you did it the first time.
     
  7. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    I sense that there might be more to this story. What code were you clearing when this saga began? Did you perhaps leave something unplugged while troubleshooting that code?
     
  8. Tom600x

    Tom600x New Member

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    I was getting the plock error message but that was not related to the normal aux battery issues. My daughter ran over a curb which pushed the transmission back some and busted up the bottom motor mount and crushed the oil pan. The connector on the shift control actuator was crushed. I replaced the shift control actuator and rewired the plug from other sources in the car since I could not easily get to it. The car then started and ran on jack stands but I believe since the wheels were all up on the stands the plock message came back on, I went to reset it with disconnecting the aux battery and then the dash went black, before that the car was running even the gas motor and front wheels spinning.
     
  9. DAM0

    DAM0 Junior Member

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    I have the exact same issue. Happened to me this morning whilst driving at about 60kmh, everything in the car just died, no assisted steering or brakes, dash went totally black, etc. Now key is unresponsive, power button does nothing, all I can do is lock/unlock it with the key fob.

    Did you end up working it out?
     
  10. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Your Inverter cooling water pump has probably burned up, blowing the AM2 fuse in the underhood fusebox. fairly common failure in the Gen 2. Remove the pump from the electrical circuit by unplugging it at the connector shown in the photo, then replace the 15 amp fuse. Drive carefully. Get pump replaced asap.

    AM2 Fuse.JPG
     
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  11. Tom600x

    Tom600x New Member

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    I am not sure if this is my issue but I will try to disconnect the plug, my AM2 fuse is not blown and has 12v+ power as well.

    My dash and power button led has no lights.
     
  12. DAM0

    DAM0 Junior Member

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    It was my AM2 fuse dead, unplugged WP and seems to be working, however I still cant move the car or get it into "Ready" mode.
    I've seen other members that have a dead WP and were still able to drive their car?
     
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