Proper Front Lower Ball Joint Torque Value

Torque specs for gasketed and spinning or vibrating parts is very important. But most other things, not so much. If your an average size person with average strength, you’ll find that using a 1/2” ratchet and going just a little past tight will work for the lower ball joints. If your really concerned get some blue lock tight.

 

How odd ... my 2001 manual didn't even have a DS section. And yes, in the SS and SA sections, it shows 105 ft lb.

The SS section also has a few pages right at the front about figuring torque specs directly from the size and strength-class of the fasteners, either for those fasteners that you don't find a specific number for elsewhere in the manual, or as a sanity check on the numbers you find. For example, it shows 105 ft lb as the proper torque for an M12-1.25 bolt if it is strength class 10T (big "10" stamped in the head, or five "flower-petals").

I don't know offhand the size or class of the ball joint fasteners.

Was the replacement ball joint (the first one or the second one) a Toyota?

I guess I might not be shocked, shocked if some aftermarket brand supplied fasteners that weren't exactly the strength class of the originals....

-Chap

 

I have a nice new set of Moog ball joints waiting to go into the car. I look at them and there's no way that I would torque the bolt/nut for the steering knuckle to 110. I'd probably quit at 40 or 45, as soon as the cotter key will fit thru the castle nut. But mostly, I don't think I've ever torqued that particular fastener. The taper of the fastener needs to jam into the taper of the steering knuckle--a solid torque would do the trick, the castle nut and cotter will keep it from coming out. Never had one click or come out. maybe I'm just lucky.

 

The ones for attaching to the LCA, can torque to no more than 30, and I guess I'd use blue loctite--I pretty much use it everywhere. An even weaker version of blue loctite is super glue. Which holds but breaks loose really easily.